[daddy long legs]

After quite an intense, fingery Moonboard sesh yesterday, but not noticing any unusual finger pain, went home only to have a sudden, sharp pain in my right hand ring finger whilst flexing my fingers. It almost felt like something elastic was catching down the middle-finger side of my ring finger and then I heard a popping sound, similar to a knuckle cracking followed by quite sharp, localised pain. The pain was certainly enough to make me wince, so around a 6/10 or 7/10.

Since then it's been pretty sore around the first knuckle/ A2 area and I was wondering if somehow the pulley has torn post-Moonboard session. I heard that in around 70% of pulley ruptures loud popping sounds are heard, but haven't come across any popping noises associated with pulley tears after climbing just from moving fingers around.

Anyone heard of cases like this?

Pain level this morning is around 3/10, so starting to feel much better and I have full movement and no bruising and what looks like minimal swelling. Starting to think it may have more to do with my joint capsule and not the pulley!?!

Also got an appointment with my GP later to see if he can refer me to a specialist, but thought I would check with the UKB community too.

[remus]

Nothing to offer on the cause, but if you want a diagnosis then going to a private physio who can ultrasound your finger (ad ideally has experience working with climbers) is the way to go these days.

[daddy long legs]

Thanks for the tip Remus.

Pretty sure there aren't any physios experienced in working with climbers where I live, but maybe it's worth making a trip to somewhere like Sheffield where I've heard there's a good one(s). Was potentially planning on being in Sheff for a few days in March anyway (bouldering, but that's gonna be out of the equation now  ). Is it Sheffield Climber's Clinic or something like that?

As I live in Germany, Volker Schöffl is THE man when it comes to fingers apparently, so I might try and get an appointment with him, although that's also a fair treck from where I live.

[remus]

Yeah, James at Sheffield Climbing Clinic is a good shout https://www.sheffieldclimbingclinic.com/ I'd see what he says first as if it's a common issue then the standard rehab protocols are fairly well established, so not a lot of value in going to see another specialist unless there's something unusual going on.

[MischaHY]

Thanks for the tip Remus.

Pretty sure there aren't any physios experienced in working with climbers where I live, but maybe it's worth making a trip to somewhere like Sheffield where I've heard there's a good one(s). Was potentially planning on being in Sheff for a few days in March anyway (bouldering, but that's gonna be out of the equation now  ). Is it Sheffield Climber's Clinic or something like that?

As I live in Germany, Volker Schöffl is THE man when it comes to fingers apparently, so I might try and get an appointment with him, although that's also a fair treck from where I live.

Biscuit on here works remote  Any good physio will want to chat things through first anyway so worth the conversation as it's straightforward enough to get a scan if necessary. https://www.processphysiotherapy.co.uk/

Have you tried loading it gently (by pulling carefully against another finger or thumb) to see where the pain is localised and what it feels like? An A2 pulley injury is usually obvious because it feels okish with a completely open drag but awful and painful at a more acute finger angle.

[James Malloch]

Thanks for the tip Remus.

Pretty sure there aren't any physios experienced in working with climbers where I live, but maybe it's worth making a trip to somewhere like Sheffield where I've heard there's a good one(s). Was potentially planning on being in Sheff for a few days in March anyway (bouldering, but that's gonna be out of the equation now  ). Is it Sheffield Climber's Clinic or something like that?

As I live in Germany, Volker Schöffl is THE man when it comes to fingers apparently, so I might try and get an appointment with him, although that's also a fair treck from where I live.

Biscuit on here works remote  Any good physio will want to chat things through first anyway so worth the conversation as it's straightforward enough to get a scan if necessary. https://www.processphysiotherapy.co.uk/

Have you tried loading it gently (by pulling carefully against another finger or thumb) to see where the pain is localised and what it feels like? An A2 pulley injury is usually obvious because it feels okish with a completely open drag but awful and painful at a more acute finger angle.

I’d second biscuit. He’s great - I’m always amazed at how good he is despite it being online. Think it’s £50 for a session which might be worth it if you’ll have to travel for anyone else.

[SA Chris]

Third biscuit. He knows his shit.

[daddy long legs]

Was at the Dr. who looked with the ultrasound and there doesn't seem to be much, if any, swelling and fluid where it hurt. He also said my tendon looks to be absolutely fine so that's good news.

Weirdly the acute pain I was feeling around PIP joint has almost gone and when I press against the A2 pad there's almost no pain whatsoever. So odd as it hurt like hell and the associated twanging sensation and popping are things I've never expereinced in over 15 years climbing.

As Mischa suggested, I've crimped gently against my other hand and even a wooden edge and there doesn't seem to be any out of the ordinary pain, just the usual creaky fngers I get after regularly board training and fingerboarding.

My doc suggested that the sensation and sound I experienced could have been the tendon catching on something then releasing, which doesn't sound too healthy, but at least it seems to have cleared up for now.

Gona rest up til the wknd and do some more cautious testing and see where it's at. Ta for the Biscuit suggestion and all the other help! 

[SA Chris]

I think I was told that the twangs are when tendons slip out of the grooves they run in, and then snap back under tension. So bit of pain when it happens but no actual damage.

I could be talking complete bollocks though.

[MischaHY]

I was a bit reticent to mention this but what you described reminded me of a thing that can occur when the flexor tendon gets bit inflamed and rubs on the sheath. Usually a good sign that you're doing too much high intensity volume and to back off a bit before it turns into an overuse injury.

[daddy long legs]

Sadly happened again yesterday evening. After feeling almost normal all day, felt like something around the PIP joint caught and there was a sudden, lightning sharp pain again. Been hurting since more so when I bend the finger. It’s strange. Will seek out a specialist after seeing how it goes this week.
Does feel like the tendon could be catching, yep

[honroid]

Good luck finding someone locally. Sounds like it's worth seeking advice on how to treat it and get better.

[daddy long legs]

Self-diagnosed update: seems like I’m suffering from a mild case of trigger finger.
My RH index is generally pain free, but clicks/ catches somewhere around the PIP joint when flexed, occasionally catching and releasing more so giving an electric shock like pain.
Seems like my whole flexor tendon from the tip of my finger to inside of my elbow is inflamed with mild pain in other fingers and forearm too. Have been suffering from some mild golfers elbow for a while now which could be the root cause of it.
I’ve been resting and stretching the flexor and extensor tendons and also massaging my forearm plus applying ice for pain relief along with ibuprofen to tackle the inflammation.
So far no improvements, but I’ll start doing some extensor training with half a dumbbell and see if that stimulates a healing response.
Also considering splinting the finger as this would obviously stop the tendon catching on the sheath, which is probably aggravating it and leading to a vicious circle.
Hope I’m not out for too long!

[sidewinder]

Just for another reference point I was experiencing similar, my main symptom was the feeling of it catching then releasing. Ultimately got seen by a hand clinic/consultant/ultrasound. Not trigger finger but the tendon flicking over a bone spur in the joint likely developed from climbing. Told not to worry about it as tendon healthy etc., returned to  climbing and mostly fine think it happens more when area inflamed. The bone spur/tendon moving over it was quite obvious when pointed out by the ultrasound technician in the hand clinic. I mention this in part because my internet diagnosis was definitely that it must be trigger finger and it wasn't at all and that it really was useful to see some hand specialists who were somewhat familiar with climbing to get an accurate diagnosis.

[daddy long legs]

That’s useful Sidewinder, thanks

[daddy long legs]

Just out of interest Sidewinder, did yours ever improve? Sounds like i need to really see a specialist as this could totally be the problem.
After doing some DIY and amateur arboriculture in the garden yesterday, my clicky finger got much worse and the catching sensation was way more painful. I wrapped up the first 2 pads with tape to immobilise it which temporarily stopped the pain as i wasn’t able to bend it, but when i took off the tape today it was even more painful. Feels way better untaped and only occasionally catches enough to give sudden pain. Does seem to be getting worse though with a full weeks break from climbing not helping at all. I do feel like i could actually climb without any issues but that‘s prob a bad idea.

[sidewinder]

Yeah it has massively improved.
It got bad, I convinced myself it was trigger finger, stopped climbing, saw hand physio who said it wasn't trigger finger but was something to be checked out, at that point suggestion/concern was some sort of sheath damage. Continued to not climb until I got the scan/'all clear' this being in part on NHS it had been several months. I then recommenced climbing and although I occasionally notice it I have no pain and if anything I think it has adapted/got better.

[daddy long legs]

Alright, sounds promising! First port of call, hand specialist.
Thanks!