the shizzle > MoonBoard
Steve Maisch style 85% efforts on a moonboard
honroid:
Yeah, I guess my board sessions have always either focused on 4x4 type sessions, a session climbing a problem on the minute or pretty much as you describe Nick but probably more limit. So a progressive warm up followed by two or three limit problems. One of those three.
I think I've been working at both a higher intensity and a lower intensity but never quite hit this sweet spot as it's hard to find. Doing this session last night it felt like the problems were really hard but doable. Just. All new problems too rather than cycling though old ones which is fun. Like you say, it doesn't have to be on a moonboard, at all, but it does work really well as a tool for this sort of thing.
I agree that it also feels like you're skirting injury in this zone.
honroid:
--- Quote from: jwi on February 08, 2023, 01:33:19 pm ---
--- Quote from: honroid on February 08, 2023, 12:03:55 pm ---
I've just started using it as Steve Maisch suggests in various podcasts. He has a couple of ideas for using it for strength based around the idea that when lifting weights for strength you work in an 80% - 85% effort zone, doing 5 reps rather than working at 100% effort and at 1 rep.
He mentions that most V15 climbers will spend the majority of their time cruising around on V12 and V13 problems and working in the 80% - 85% zone.
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I'm curious, how does he find the conversion between proportion of max effort and grade? According to some simple calculations that I just did based on various studies that relates max fingerstrength and grade I find that for someone whos fingers are taxed to 100% on individual moves on an 8C+ (i.e. "8C climbers"), their fingers would be taxed at around 80-85% at 8A-8A+.
What does he mean by effort?
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It's a funny one isn't it. So if you were running or doing something aerobic, max effort is you max heart rate and then you can work in heart rate zones. Weight lifting, one rep max then work in a percentage of that.
The thing here is we are talking about the moonboard, not climbing in general. In climbing a moon board, climbing the hardest problem you can will be your max effort. Your max grade is tough to measure. You may find an 8A+ that fits you well and get lucky.
It's a way of dialing in on that 80% zone used in weight lifting. Not scientific but something that tension / moon / kilter makes acheiveable rather than relying on perceived max effort or endlessly cycling through the same problems.
webbo:
Generally when doing aerobics stuff you don’t go to max heart rate. Knowing what it is gives you the zones to work in.
User deactivated.:
In the context of climbing board problems, using RPE to gauge effort makes much more sense than calculating percentages of your max.
RPE is subjective, and that is a positive thing not a negative. To me, the session that Bradders describes sounds like 5 problems at an RPE of 6-7 to warm up (still challenging), 5 problems at RPE 9-9.5 (almost maximal), a few projects at RPE 10, then weighted problems likely around RPE 8-9.
Interestingly it's those final weighted problems that might be in the sweet spot where you can achieve a lot of volume at sufficient intensity.
I do something similar myself but I prefer to do the maximal stuff straight after the challenging warm ups, then my volume work afterwards. During a peak phase I'd keep the volume work lower, but around RPE 9-9.5 (30-50% likely to do it). During a base phase where I want to build strength and i dont care as much about fatigue, volume is king, so I'll aim for RPE 8-9 (perhaps 70-100% success rate) so that I can do more work in the session thats still at adequate intensity for strength gains.
abarro81:
--- Quote from: Liamhutch89 on February 08, 2023, 05:16:39 pm --- RPE 9-9.5 (30-50% likely to do it).
RPE 8-9 (perhaps 70-100% success rate)
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Surely anything below RPE 10 means not falling off apart from by an error? E.g. RPE of 8 you wouldn't fall off apart from by making a mistake... Unless you mean the individual moves having RPE of 8 (making a 5 move problem a 10, for example)? Or an imaginary RPE when fresh but you're not fresh at the end of a session? This kind of stuff is why RPE is as often a terrible measure as it is a great measure!
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