the shizzle > MoonBoard

Steve Maisch style 85% efforts on a moonboard

<< < (9/9)

Bradders:

--- Quote from: Liamhutch89 on February 11, 2023, 09:35:46 pm ---Drew Ruana said something similar on his recent Careless Talk podcast appearance. Asked about his lack of training and just going climbing instead, he said that (paraphrase) climbing V14 boulders every time he goes out is enough training on its own, but at a lower level, climbers wouldn't get the same effect and supplemental training might be more beneficial.

Like the posters above, I'm skeptical, unless it's something specific to the bouldering in Colorado, e.g. at V14 the climbing is sufficiently steep and sustained on single pad edges in a way that it isn't at V8?

--- End quote ---

Specifically on Drew, he said on the Nugget that he also does loads of weight training, or at least did for a really long time, has a gym in his basement and goes to the gym a lot with his partner. So I take his "I don't train" thing with a massive pinch of salt.

Anyway, I meant to say ages ago that whilst Steve Maisch did say about e.g. 8C climbers doing lots of 8A-Bs, he also said that after warming up on an 8A or two, they would go and try their 8C project.... i.e. they're getting both levels of stimuli. Take Drew as a case in point; yes he does loads of V12s/13s/14s but he's also spent an enormous amount of time on things like Megatron.

yetix:
Jack Pal has done 100s of 8s over the last few years since not training anymore, but instead spends some sessions at training venues, I'd hazard a guess that flipnic into the crack is the physically the hardest thing he's done from my armchair and was done in the middle of the last 3 years of doing over 200 8s (if flipnic is 8b+ like most seem to suggest and it adds 8a onto the end of that) and that was off the back of basically just going outside alot.

The Bowderstone ladder face is like a giant board of generally nice edges with some tricks and fairly powerful movement (the backside involves wizardy too!)

Parisella's is like doing repeaters in a roof if you climb through rocka and triggercut. With ferrino is like doing a chest and lats and legs session at the gym.

Every training venue has things it will make you particularly good at  the same way every board does too, and given most people use boards it makes sense.

Perhaps we need a ranking of the UKs best training venues!

I guess the thing with harder boulders is they often contain l more sustained areas (especially when they're adding harder starts into established problems?) whereas often in my experience lower grade stuff revolves around a move or two, and the other areas you can be more relaxed or out of the zone so to speak (I'm sure there's many examples which buck the trend, but finding them for every session with also small enough holds to make finger gains and complexities to become a better climbing is probably harder to find in lower grades?) and then this gradually increases.


I also guess as the grade increases (at least in my experience) as does the complexity of what's required and the more you can learn the better, if you're having to learn loads from the boulder, but also getting decent training stimulous then surely that's win win? Perhaps you could get more physical stimulous on a board etc but might lose an aspect of the learning component which is equally important...

jwills:
I've climbed on the moonboard quite a bit as I have one in my garage and find it is especially brutal at exploiting one's "technique" and strength. While skill and strength are necessary in really any form of climbing I think moonboarding (assuming this is an established verb now) really requires a requisite amount of strength as well as an ability to move effectively around the board. The strength could probably come from anywhere but the movement aspect of things is pretty moonboard-specific. Having thrown myself hopelessly at certain problems I often find my inability to send is many times not strength related and way more movement related. With that said there is definite benefit (when talking about moonboarding) to really nail down the movements of lower grades before moving onto harder grades. So when Maisch talks about 85% effort moonboarding I think it's for 2 reasons. One is for sure to get volume which is occasionally an under-appreciated means of strength training (bechtel talks a lot about this) but also to just become comfortable with the moonboard movement patterns which really can't be learned if trying at your absolute limit.
There are definite movement patterns on the board that are necessary to nail down that aren't super common at commercial gyms. This is for sure the case with the 2019 set which in general requires a ton more body tension/positioning compared to the 2016 set (may be a hot take right there).

One could posit that for things that are more multi-faceted like moonboarding, coordination-type boulders (for whoever does those), slab, etc incorporating some "85% effort" training in there is very valuable. 85% effort training though for simpler and more power-dependent training (fingerboarding, campusing, etc) could be less valuable unless volume is messed with sort of like anderson hangs.

honroid:
I'm a few sessions deep into this idea of doing 5 problems at 3 grades below, 5 at 2 grades below and repeating the first 5.

Just finished a sessions tonight. Using the Moonboard has let me really dial in the level over the last few weeks. Failing on maybe one problem on the main set or last set.

Using the Moonboard means I'm cranking on good quality problems and trying new moves rather than cycling through old problems. Although I have that option too if I'm feeling weaker on a day.

I'm surprised by the variety of movement and styles. I'm quite often looking at moves thinking 'no way' and then doing the problem a few goes later.

The while thing feels very worthwhile. For sure getting better at moonboarding. Not sure of it will do anything for my climbing!

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[*] Previous page