Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023 (Read 2370 times)


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Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 05, 2023, 09:51:19 pm
I've been slacking a bit recently, both on training and PC!  Suffering from a weird wrist tweak, thumb side. Sharp pain when gripping and twisting. Inconsistent. Seem to have stater from manual work on the van (grinding, scraping etc.) Really don't do much training last week - trying to let it recover.

Last week's bad news for Shark reminds me it's 7 years next week since my old man passed away.  :wavecry:  Still miss the old bugger.

3 Feb 2023

Wrist still tweaked. Generally bit better. Tried some hangs on BM and didn't hurt so went to newsroom to try some low grade enduro.

Double lap 6c, o/s. Panel 2

White 7a after struggling to do the start (weirdly hard move at hold 6) onsighted the rest to 28/36 where I had a  sequence issue. Rested 8m then did full circuit, rested 1min then did the 6c on P4 to annoying end crux. Rested 10m.

7b on 45 circuits panel  dropped move 15. Rested 15s then did 15 to 26, rested 15s and did 23 to end (32).

Did the 7a on 15 panel, tried to link straight into 6c but too pumped. Rested a minute then did 6c.

Then double lap on 6c.

5 Feb 2023

5+ on panel 5 (felt tricky), more. l like 6a?

Tried to do 10 mins on panel 1/2 (15 degrees) but was getting fairly pumped! 7.5 mins before stopping. on 6a+/6b  (should really be able able to do 10 minutes at this level - maybe wasn't well warmed up?)

Had about 30 mins flashing new greens with B. 6A-6B+

Pink 7b on 45 circuit panel - finally managed a full lap! Nice - some progress! Wonder if I can do laps on this and what my gap would need to be.

Woody 7b about 10 mins later. All except matching at finish, 45 moves on crimpy edges with no real rests.

Need to get some consistency for Slovenia in 4 weeks, but seems like an ok base if I can manage a mini-peak.


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#1 Re: Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 05, 2023, 11:09:38 pm
Recovery week.
Felt rubbish all week & had cremation in London.
Did stretching mainly

Rest week. Recovery
Monday -




Peloton 30min Stretching

Rest & stretching

30min Peloton ride


4min problems
Purple circuit at the Depot
- Flash
- [❌ toe hook prow. Hard pull to volume
- ❌ awkward start near front desk.  Couldnít do the first move 🤪
  • 1st 2nd session

- Steep wall next to wood traverse wall. couldnít hold cross over
- Tried slab bulge.
- Did undercut undercling problem from last week. Wrists not sore.


30min Peloton ride


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#2 Re: Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 06, 2023, 08:32:43 am
Thanks Alasdair



T Weighted deadhangs on Metolius campus rung in the barn. FC,HC and Drag3x 3 pull-ups up then 10, 10 secs at BW, +12.5kg FC,HC&D 3x2 pull ups then 10,10 and 10 sec hang.+17.5kg FC,HC and Drag 3x1 pull up then 10, 10 and 10 +22.5kg  FC,HC and Drag 3x1 pull up then 4, 5 and 8 secs


T Weighted deadhangs on Metolius Campus rung. FC,HC and Drag3x 3 pull-ups up then 10, 10 secs at BW, +12.5kg FC,HC&D 3x2 pull ups then 10,10 and 10 sec hang.+17.5kg FC,HC and Drag 3x1 pull up then 10, 10 and 10 +22.5kg  FC,HC and Drag 3x1 pull up then 10, 8 and 14 secs

F Drive back from Devon

S AM Felt terrible. Knocked over my coffee. Dropped a toolbox. Then suprisingly felt strong and powerful on systems board benchmarks but quickly burnt out trying PE circuit. PM Painting an office

S Midday Systems board. Tried the PE circuit but only got through throw move once. AeroCap 20/10s timing 2 secs per move. Did first set ok but failed at move 70 on second set. Moved lots of office furniture with Sonia and finished the painting.

Had hoped to get outside in Devon but no takers then too busy to get out this weekend which was a shame with the good weather. Might swing by tor today on way back down to Devon. Possibility of going to Sharpnose on Friday.

Making good gains with the max hangs but PE well under par with return visit to Datca only 16 days away. Keen to see how far I can take with it max hangs but probably should do repeaters or something endurancy - maybe go to the Quay at Exeter as website says they have autobelays.


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#3 Re: Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 06, 2023, 09:37:56 am
Last Saturday but one I sprained my knee and so my last week was mostly training and easing it back in.

Monday: trained, Weighted pullups, wide grips, etc

Tuesday: rested

Wednesday: actually got on the Kilter Board as knee felt alright. Did some relatively easy stuff, sub 7s. Felt strong and knee felt mostly okay. Could drop from the top. Skin not great. Ring rows, these feel increasing easy.

Thursday: did some light pulling at home.

Friday: nerd night

Saturday: works board session, felt pretty good, not 100% committing to moves at the top but getting closer. Skin again not mega good, but did some slightly harder stuff up to about 7A

Sunday: grit, repeated a couple of old easy things at Burbage S, then hopped on Crash and Gurn. Feels hard, I think I need to just train legs more. Got relatively close though

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#4 Re: Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 06, 2023, 09:58:55 am
Tu - board session. Climbed an old project that Nathaniel had done - the aptly named Strike Breaker - for the first time. Psyched!

F - lunchtime board session. Set a new project.

Su - Brimham. Went to repeat 36C and Footwork's Winter Bulge. Felt like a hard pull on and first move then difficult second move. Found some better beta which knocked more than a letter off. Result.
Did the stand to ESP and decided that the sit looked a bit meh. Eventually got tempted into trying it when everyone else had figured out better beta. Had a go getting through to the stand from sit before we moved on.
Did that Green Arete thing that we've all walked past a million times. It was brilliant.
Pulled onto various things around Titfield including Kittens/Pussy Galore to no avail.
Messed about on Cleft Buttress to finish.

Skin gone.


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#5 Re: Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 06, 2023, 10:01:29 am
M - Walked 10km.
T - Westway, bouldering: short session including three steep V3/4 problems. Pull-ups: sets of 3.  Walked 10km.
W - Short shuffle. Shoulder, elbow, wrist rehab./conditioning: biceps curls, reverse curls, ring rows, side planks.
T - Pull-ups as above. Westway autobelay: 6 routes to 6c. Elbow tweaky so stopped early.
F - Shoulder etc. conditioning, pull-ups as above. Went to a very good BBC symphony orchestra concert with the lad and friend.
S - Shuffled for 15 minutes. Also walked 10km.
S - Portland Blacknor Central with csl. Dry, cold with a milky sun; conditions would have been brilliant for a hard redpoint. Warmed-up on Gaze of the Gorgon, a 6a+ that would make a good Pembroke E2 if the rock was a bit less Portlandy. Tried Portland Heights which seemed tough for 7a and run-out in places which didn't help. Took a couple falls and jumped off above a bolt without total terror but was generally feeling tired, not particularly confident or in a try-hard mood, so unleashed the clip stick. Worked it again on a TR but the top moves were too wristy. More practice falls on Lifeline on the way out.

Falls: 92

Try-hards: 3

Good to get out onto rock with Conor but feeling like a well-used PiŮata today. The day was a lot harder than the one at Brean the other week. Climbing after the 3+ hours drive? (wondered if Iím getting a bit old for this) A deficit of sugary snacks? A fairly active training week? Wrist still quite problematic? Itís only the second day on rock in 3 months so onwards...


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#6 Re: Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 06, 2023, 01:46:53 pm
M: G1. Legs and chest. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *5. Bench press 165lb X3 *3. RDLs 185lb X5 *5. Cable flys, Chest cable ups, Bicep curl, Shoulder press.

T: 20 mins skipping, my first linked double unders. Managed five in a row! G1. 20mm hangs 7s up to +55lb to warm up. Kilter 50deg. 2 V4, 2 V5, 2 V6, 3 V7, 1 V8. Fun challenge with mates trying to climb a boulder at every angle from 0deg to 70deg at 5deg increments. Chose a V8 (at 70deg) and worked our way up. Shame it was a bit of a shit boulder. Managed up to 50deg and failed at 55 (maybe V6/7ish). Knackered

T: 25 mins skipping. G1. Max hangs 20mm 7s 65lb *4. Kilter 50deg. 2 V4, 2 V5, 1 V6, 1 V9. First kilter V9 - good session!

S: Clear Creek Canyon. Second session on Return of the Mossman. Re-learned moves and sent big crux moves for first time. Started giving it burns but couldn't link crux move from the floor. Went to Ghost Town boulders and quickly repeated my mate's recent FA Gordon Bennett V5. I worked, cleaned then put up a new line to the left called Cor Blimey V6. Great end to the day.

S: 20 mins skipping. G1. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *4. Bench press 165lb X3 *5. Cable flys, Chest cable ups, Shoulder press.

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#7 Re: Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 06, 2023, 02:51:59 pm
Been a bit absent from PC while the Sharkathon was going on - can't be arsed to rewrite it all...  :chair:

Really shit news about your dad Simon... Sorry to hear it. Losing a parent is bloody tough whenever and however it happens.

M: Saw Ozzy bout tweaky elbow - ultrasound diagnosis: no sign of tendonopathy or arthritis (YYFY), evidence of trauma so diagnosis is tendon strain/tear and 3 weeks dialling back the training... This is a bit shit as finally feeling strong and fit from the last 2 months on the Lettuce - could be far worse! Dog walk and pub!
T: 25 Degree Moonboard - as per Dave Mac and Ozzy's estimation that steep boards don't aggravate elbows... Took it easy (ish) 10+ benchmarks up to 6A+... Stopped while feeling strong and did nothing tweaky.
W: Rest - elbow actually feeling better than previous day!
T: Hangar with Daughter - 1.5hrs easy pottering - did a couple of non-elbow-tweaky reds.
F: AW with my daughter, a mate and his - great little session, girls had a great time and we all got some quality mileage in on the blocs and string - nowt above F6b and V4...
S: Wander around Houndkirk Tor in the mizzle with the hound - thought I'd take a look at Made in Sheff but managed to somehow completely avoid finding it  :doubt:
S: Mileage @ AW - Mostly in the F6a-F6b+ range but did get on a sweet looking F6c+ to test the elbow and fitness... Pissed it and elbow was fine - not keen on deep locks while clipping so had to do a few more moves than I would usually to get the right body positions (maybe bumping the grade up to F7a  :P) but on the whole it's all very positive.

Hurting my elbow in the last 3rd of my Lettuce plan is gutting but in the grand scheme of things I'm definitely feeling stronger and as long as I can rehab right I think I should still be on for a good Leonidio trip (3 weeks yesterday)... Bit gutted that Lettuce didn't offer any alternatives to maintain fiitness/strength as they seem to indicate that they do, said that as I had a trip coming up then I should just do as the physio recomended (easy climbing) - tbh I would have expected a bit more support post injury (maybe suggesting I concentrate on stretching the lower body - fingerboard exercises that don't stress the elbows etc.) but I guess they have bigger fish to fry (i.e. those paying more!) and took the easy option - has  left me a bit jaded with them but it was a good experience.


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#8 Re: Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 06, 2023, 02:57:51 pm
I suspect they are risk averse with injury advice as you can come back at them if it aggravates it. I dunno if the existence of a contract between you and them for training advice makes them more wary.


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#9 Re: Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 06, 2023, 10:49:10 pm
Power Club

Mon - AM as usual. PM good mornings, bentover rows.
Tue - boxing bag.
Wed - weights between work phone calls. Awful but better that not training.
Thu - good mornings, bentover rows, cleans complex x10.
Fri - board climbing. PB on current project, then climbed it. I went from being all over the place to doing it in 45 minutes this sesion, amazing. The key was understanding the third move: not a deadpoint, but a pull. It's all in the mind. Kind of.
Sat - AM as usual. Lots of walking.
Sun - AM as usual. Lots of walking. PM double volume AM session.

Lots of stuff getting in the way of training.

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#10 Re: Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 07, 2023, 01:16:48 pm
Might as well check in. Managed very little quality training since Christmas due mostly to :sick: and a dose of  :shit:. Silver lining though as it forced a 2 week break from any training which has helped my forearm injury recover.

T. Board session, 1st one after 2 week break. Took it very easy, forearm was stiff and quite painful so backed off quite quickly.
F. Wrote a list of quality boulders I have unfinished business with which was highly motivating. Feel I'm back to a point where I'm climbing quite well again and fairly strong, but I need some goals to focus on. Looking forward to get stuck into some of these this year.
S. Decent board session. Put the heater on and warmed up well, forearm was little stiff to start then eased into it. Worked on a handful of new moderates and finished with some deadhangs. Woke up at 5am next morning with a fresh bout of  :shit: :sick: FFS.


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#11 Re: Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 08, 2023, 08:35:38 am
Missed most of the last month...

M - Wall - board, plus couple of hard projects
T - Physio, then wall - ditto
T - Wall - ditto
S - Wall - ditto

Finally decided to see physio to figure out what I did to my shoulder last November. I dropped into a RH Gaston on steep prow and felt a big crunch in my shoulder. Apart from more gastons, climbing hasn't been too badly affected, but it has been painful sleeping on it for ages. Anyway, it turns out it was the long head biceps tendon. Two sessions of physio now and it feels much better. Sacked off all weights stuff temporarily on his advice. Surprisingly, I did a benchmarking session the week before, and managed weighed pull-up PB (+55kg / 157kg total) and bench press (105kg). The latter (apparently exactly the wrong thing to do with a biceps tendon injury) was quite surprising because it was only the 3rd session after not trying any for over 15 years. Back then I spent ages trying to get to 100kg, but I don't think I ever managed more than 95. Now aiming for 125, and hopefully bumping the weighted pull-ups up too.

Lost a bit of route syke since getting back to Margalef. Was hoping to meet Shark in Devon last week for Anstey's which was scuppered by my useless builders. Have decided to carry on focusing on strength stuff for the next month or two.


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#12 Re: Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 08, 2023, 01:16:31 pm
M - TCA,elbow rehab then  45 min bouldering, not making progress on anything so switched to circuits. Managed a double + 12 moves on the 7a+, for a total of 110 moves. Outrageous pump on. 10 minutes rest then 2 attempts at 7b on 15į board, got between 2/3 and 3/4 of the way round both goes.
T -
W - TCA, not much time and off to Spain in a couple of days so just boshed round the new oranges (6A to 6B+). 32 problems, 38 minutes, 1 fall. Repeated a few at the end as they were still tweaking them, and a couple of things on the comp wall.
T -
F - travel
S - Chulilla, Cherales for easy introduction for everyone. Hot in the sun, but that's what I'm on holiday for! 2x4b, 1x5c, 1x6a, 1x7a (El Primer)(annoyingly dropped the last hard move on OS)
S - Fantasia for more relaxing in the sun. 1x5c, 2x6b, 1x6c, 1x7a (Pa Na No Es Menester Na) bit soft, but nice to OS.

71 kg

In Spain this week, psyched elbow seems to be holding up ok so far. Seem to have picked up a cough on the plane but feeling ok.


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#13 Re: Lost Dad's Club 682 30 Jan - 5 Feb 2023
February 08, 2023, 01:27:51 pm
Quick Q, might split into another thread if there's interest.

I'm in the last 4 weeks of my current "block" hence focussing on keeping explosive bouldering in the mix but less of a focus (once per week) and otherwise doing some base endurance (consistent climbing for 10-20 mins for one session per week as a warm up to doing some more focussed / peak / aeropow type work.

My question is about in-session volume and when to stop?  Last night I did about 200m of climbing between 6b (continuity) and 7b - limit onsight* (*not strictly training the right "systems" but fun and good to keep skills focussed)

Other work I've been doing is circuits at TCA for which I've been doing double laps at around or just below onsight level, with 15s to 1m rest between the two laps, depending on difficulty.

So, thoughts - when should you stop?  I've usually got a good sense of when I'm hitting diminishing returns with power / stregth stuff and stop relatively early but I'm not sure if I should be focussing more on quality and less on volume? 


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