[Duma]

M - 12 hr shift
T - TCA, bouldering, 2.5 hrs. Went round the comp set from last week, 4 I didn't manage, 3 I didn't flash. Work on a few other things, got one blue and one black.
W - TCA, bouldering, 2 hrs. Fairly loose 4x4s, mostly on whites. Mostly ended up a bit too easy.
T -
F -
S -
S - TCA bouldering, 90 min. Trying problems on the front (steep). A few here been eluding me, finally managed to tick a couple off
71 kg

[shark]

Thanks Duma

M.

T. Weighted pull-ups and deadhangs on a campus rung in a barn

W Brean. Retroflashed Coral Sea 6c+ and Pearl Harbour 7a. Failed to flash the thuggy Route of Inequity 7a+ but got it second redpoint. Climbed well especially considering things. A good tonic.

T

F Weighted pull-ups and deadhangs on a campus rung

S

S Weighted pull-ups and deadhangs on a campus rung

Awful week. Dad died suddenly and unexpectedly on Sunday evening and I went straight down to Devon. Will be spending a lot more time this year down here with mum. Dry January out the window.

[andy popp]

My deepest sympathies Simon. It's good you were able to get down there so quickly to be with your mum.

[Duma]

That's awful, so sorry Simon.

[NaoB]

Sending my deepest condolences Simon, that's an awful situation. Really good that you are in a position where you can support your mum as she will no doubt be in total shock. Another reminder to treasure every moment - it can be all gone in a flash....

[shark]

Yes really hard for mum. 60 years of happy marriage and suddenly he’s not there.

[cheque]

Really sorry to hear this Simon.

[teestub]

My condolences Simon

[spidermonkey09]

Shit news Simon, my condolences. Hope you and your mum are bearing up.

[shark]

Thanks guys

[webbo]

Condolences Simon.

[SA Chris]

So sad to hear this Simon. Thoughts with you all.

[rginns]

Really sorry to hear this Simon, condolences.

[abarro81]

Sorry to hear that Simon

[Will Hunt]

Sorry for your loss, Simon.


Tu - Moonboard. Everything felt hard this week. Nothing of note ticked.

Sun - just had the afternoon so went to Ruin Bank to check out the Yorkshire Traverse area. Had envisaged there being lots of untapped up-problem potential but not so sure. The wall above the break is very blank and where there is a line the landing is a bit crap and I can't see how you'd patio it. The left rib of the main face looks good but you'd have to not overshoot the boulder in the landing or you'd be off down the hill. Did some cleaning. Marvellous Martin was damp from seepage so couldn't do that. Thought it was going to be a non-climbing session but started to pull onto the traverse almost as an afterthought and figured out all the sequences pretty quickly. There's nothing on there harder than low-mid 6 in isolation but there are over 20 hand movements. Went for a link go and managed it but had a dab along the way. Rested 20 mins and went again, this time without the dab.
It's a cool thing to have nearby as it's basically permadry and I imagine that running laps on it would get you fit. It's nothing like the 7B+/7C that it's written up as. More like a French 7b. Easier than the Green Traverse at the Glen.

[duncan]

Sorry Simon.

Another friend’s dad died very recently and I had been thinking about mine, 30 years this week and I still miss him. To everyone else, talk with yours now if you can. 

M - Westway, bouldering: short, good session including two steep V3/4 problems and a V4/5. Hardest indoor problems I’ve done in 18 months. Third bouldering session of the year but first when I was starting to try hard a bit. Something’s working.
T - Pull-ups (and drop off) for speed, on the 45mm edge. Walked 10km.
W - Westway, routes. Mostly autobelay, some leading fall practice. 350m to 6b+ but mostly much easier. Good session, battered after.
T - Shuffled 20 mins. including Parliament Hill. Walked ~10km.
F - Bad back! Creaked around the house but managed some light wrist and shoulder conditioning: ring rows, biceps curls, pull-ups, side planks.
S - Westway with Fiend . Back still feeling creaky so warmed up with 4x 6a on the autobelay then falls practice on the way up 4x 6a-6b. Donated blood. Went to Robbie Philips’ entertaining  and his ‘Stacked’ film with seankenny  . Low-tech.but good fun and great to go to a real live climbing talk again. 
S - Walked 10km. Proud dad watched the lad play cello in a performance of Florence Price’s Mississippi River Suite.

Falls: 81
Try-hards: 3

Both training-wise and socially it was a pretty good week.

[James Malloch]

Very sorry to hear about your farther, Simon. I can’t imagine what you and your family are going through.

My thoughts are with you and your mum.




My log from this week:

BW 70Kg

M. Gym session. Thanks for the advice on this Liam.
DB bench press - 4x5 with 22kg
Weighted pull ups - 4x5 with 10kg
OH Standing Barbell Press - 5,5,4,3 with 30kg
Leg press - worked up to 80kg
Calf raise - worked up to 50kg
Leg Extension - worked up to 63kg
Leg Curl - worked up to 55kg
BW dips - 5,5,4,5 reps

T. Warm up and then 10s two arm hangs up to +15kg
One arm hangs:
4x10s with 10kg assistance.

Need to get a good edge to work on. Doing it on a hanging fingerboard which has a slight slant. Left arm felt stronger than RH (pinky was slipping on Rh towards the end). Should have a better edge set up soon.

Set up a 12 move campus circuit. Mix of jugs and pinches. Did this twice. Aiming to and an extra rep each week until failure.

W.

T. Board session. Did 7 more problems. Some Easy, some hard. I’m down to the hard problems/projects now. Got 12 left to tick the board - going to maybe choose 4 to try each session.

F.

S. Shipley Glen with friends. Warmed up. Bailed off last move of Rudolph 6C.  Not used to these thin, higher things! Did Parker quickly, and some
Other low 6’s. Tried Red Baron sit but couldn’t hold the swing to the lip (only had 2 goes) and then failed on the stand and some of the thin walls to the left. Lovey day out though.

S.

I quite enjoyed a more structured week. Nice to do a gym session and hoping to keep it up until after work bouldering is doable again.

Any advice on when to up weights would be appreciated. If I manage 4x5 with a certain weight, should I up it? Then work up to 4x5 again knowing I might have some failed sets for a few weeks?

[User deactivated.]

Simon, sorry for your loss. All the best to you and your family.

Any advice on when to up weights would be appreciated. If I manage 4x5 with a certain weight, should I up it? Then work up to 4x5 again knowing I might have some failed sets for a few weeks?

As a new/returning lifter, take advantage of linear progression while you can and up the weights a bit each week. I'd expect you'll still hit all your reps (or thereabouts) as the body adapts quickly at this stage. Once this plateaus you can then devise more cunning plans to trick the body into getting stronger.

BTW - the dips at the end look a bit like 'burning out' to me. They're a great exercise, but since you're already hitting the pushing muscles with bench press and overhead press, I reckon they're surplus to requirements at this stage. Minimum effective dose is what you want.

[AJM]

Awful week. Dad died suddenly and unexpectedly on Sunday evening and I went straight down to Devon. Will be spending a lot more time this year down here with mum. Dry January out the window.

Sorry to hear that Simon, my condolences…

[Coops_13]

Sorry to hear that Simon.

M: Stone Summit Atlanta. 20mm max hangs 10s +44lb X6. Boulders up to V6-8. Muscle-ups to finish

F: G1. 20mm max hangs 10s +44lb X6. Kilter 50deg. 2 V4, 2 V5, 2 V6, 5 V7, 1 V8. Power pulls to finish

S: 30 mins skipping - learnt alternating feet, 100 press-ups. Walk round dog park

S: G1. 20mm hangs 7s up to +55lb to warm up. Kilter 50deg. 2 V4, 2 V5, 3 V6, 2 V7. Attempts on some harder boulders. Power pulls X5, +25lb X5. Ab wheel roll-outs X50

[Nibile]

Condolences for your loss Simon. Stay strong.

Power Club

Mon - AM as usual. PM board climbing, static and short links on current project. Painful ribs.
Tue - AM as usual. PM garage session, clean up to 3 singles at 95%. 5x5 at 82,5%. No point in doing max one armers after that, switch to volume. Press.
Wed - farmer's, TBDL. Front2 and back3 on 1 cm, mid2 on Lattice edge in between sets.
Thu - system beast singles and doubles after an eternity, 8/10 years? One foot bouldering +2 kg on PE 1 and 2.
Fri - lots of walking, Tyson push ups.
Sat - AM as usual. PM weights.
Sun - BM pockets and monos, 1 arm front3. Back work.

[mrjonathanr]

My condolences Simon. Losing a parent at any age is a big deal.

[shark]

Thanks everybody for the supportive messages both on and offline.

[Aussiegav]

Deepest condolences Simon to you & all your family.

The Lurgy Strikes Back.
Monday -

Lattice quad block lifts. Shoulder shrugs and single arm hangs.
2 two body weight hangs in open & half crimp
3x 95% hangs Half crimp. BW plus 17.25kg
3x 95% hangs open hand. BW plus 25kg


Tuesday
Boulder triples on 6 problems
1. V4, 2. V3, 3. V4, 4. V6, 5. V6  6. V3 long roof problem

Stretching

Wednesday
Peloton 30min Stretching

Thursday
Had sore achy wrists
Lattice quad block lifts. Shoulder shrugs and single arm hangs.
2 two body weight hangs in open & half crimp
3 95% hangs Half crimp. BW plus 17.25kg
 Wrists ached so didn’t do open hand hangs.

Friday. Rest day


Saturday
Woke feeling achy. Weird aches & stabbing pains in random joints. Mainly wrists & fingers.

Depot - Sheffield

6x 4min problems new purples
 V5 easy steep purple
V5/6. A steep undercut with double under clings. Wrist ached. Had 3 tries. 
V5. 50 degree jug haul 2nd go
V6. 50 degree cross over. ❌
V5 Slab. 4th go
V6. Prow near check in desk. Powered out at 2nd last hold.

Felt exhausted at the end. 


Sunday
Felt rubbish all day.

[csl]

Sorry to hear about your dad Simon.

Jan Goals
Indoor x4 - 4/4
Fingerboard x8 - 6/8

Mon
Impulse bought one of those Tindeq things which made me marginally more psyched to do some fingerboarding for a whole day. Not sure if thats good ROI  . Did enjoy spending a few hours writing a JavaScript library for it though.

Saturday
Bouldering. Volume up to V5 at blocfit, felt wrecked the next day.

Feb Goals
- Transition from "getting back into it" into trying to improve (have a plan)
- Outside x1
- Indoor x4
- Fingerboard x8

[remus]

Did enjoy spending a few hours writing a JavaScript library for it though.

That sounds interesting. I don't suppose you've uploaded it to github?