[shark]

11.10-12 average 165.2lbs (no change)

M

T AM Home warm up Foundry. Routes with Keith on main wall. Three warm up routes then flashed the blue 6c+ I failed on last week. Tried the pink 7a on the same line. Hard (7b/+?) but good. Several attempts. Hopefully go next time. Good to see the Pope stylishly despatch the 8b+. Finished off on auto belay in Furnace

W  Eve. Weighted deadhangs on Ergo Edge. FC,HC and Drag3x 2pullups up then 10, 10 secs at BW, +12.5kg FC,HC&D 3x1pull up then 10,10 and 10 sec hang.+17.5kg FC,HC and Drag 3x1 pull up then 10,10 and 8 +22.5kg couldn’t do a pull-up which was regressive then 5,4 and 6 sec hangs which was progress

T

F PM Tor. Bens in surprisingly good nick.
Lacklustre session repeatedly failing on kneebar release yet again - though maybe falling off more slowly! - then tried it from the start 3 x with best go being the first where almost got to kneebar rest.Black thoughts after about lack of progress from training and why I was bothering at all.

S AM PM systems board. Warm up. Pinch/gaston went first go. Throw variations almost doing hard one. Then after several attempts did the mirrored crusher crimp problem which I’d been shut down on recently then almost did it back to back which I’ve only ever managed rarely. Elated. Went home and instead of doing weights pressed home the advantage and did some foot on campusing and managed the 40 moves I’d been aiming for and then did it 4 more times with long rests and failed on the 6th attempt. Incredible .

S

Weight seems to be coming off my midriff but not showing on the scales yet so reckon will drop a couple of lbs this week.

Had been getting despondent about my training but Saturdays performance has provided a welcome boost.

Connies forecast this week so looking forward to make the most of it. Also got clearance for a 10 day return trip to Datca at the end of Feb

[Duma]

M - elbow rehab
T - TCA bouldering, 2 hrs. 1 white,  4 blues, work on 2 others.
W - 12 hr shift. Bed the moment I got in.
T - 12 hr shift.
F -  TCA bouldering, 90 min. Did whole new yellow circuit (30+ problems 5 to 6A) warming up, then harder things, 1 black, 3 blues.
S - TCA, not psyched but got into it slowly. Managed 2 vert blues at the end of warm up, then circuits: 8 x 7a+, 2 min rest between reps, alternate reps in reverse. Failed just over halfway through 8th rep. Good session in the end.
S - Run, 5k, flat, pavement, 25:40.
70 kg

[Duma]

...then flashed the blue 6c+ I failed on last week.

Surprised at how loosely you use the term, esp given your opinion on keen youth's "flash" attempt on Lexicon

;-)

[shark]

...then flashed the blue 6c+ I failed on last week.

Surprised at how loosely you use the term, esp given your opinion on keen youth's "flash" attempt on Lexicon

;-)

Not loose at all. I referenced that I had previously failed. If I hadn’t then your point would be well made so 

[abarro81]

Not loosely at all then, just entirely erroneously!   

[shark]

FFS you 

Flash is taken to mean a ground up flash with beta unless otherwise qualified by something that shows it wasn’t ground up.

I’ll replace it with ‘first go redpoint’ if you lack the mental dexterity to cope but the term smacks of 8a.nu spew.

[abarro81]

To all sensible people flash means first try with beta, at least in modern vernacular. I'm genuinely not sure what flash in your context is even supposed to indicate, which obviously tells you that its use in that way doesn't work - Second go? First try of the day? Ground up?

Edit after your edit - doing something second go is just doing something second go! There's even an option for that on 8a 

[Duma]

To all sensible people flash means first try with beta, at least in modern vernacular

What barrows said.

I assumed you meant first try that session?

[shark]

If memory serves me correct flash was in common circulation as a term just meaning without falls before redpointing was. That was the way I used it. Onsighting was a loose term often confused with ground up hence an attempt to call it an ‘onsight flash’ or ‘beta flash’ to differentiate but this became just onsight as the term became more widely recognised as without beta and ‘beta flash’ became just flash but the level of ‘beta’ didn’t include abseil inspection.
So in short you are right if I think about it because it isn’t 1983 any more.

[SA Chris]

Not sure clutching straws is an effective method of finger strength training.

[Fiend]

So in short you are right if I think about it because it isn’t 1983 any more.

The sheer good grace of this last line made me laugh 

[Duma]

yeah, worth a wad I thought

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - goblet squat, push ups, ab wheel.
Tue - BM after ages, back2 medium pockets, mid2 small pockets, front2 half crimp small edge, then pinches on board. Nice session.
Wed - barbell good mornings, bentover rows. Heavy.
Thu - loaded carries.
Fri - TBDL from blocks 100 kg 10x10. Tired.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - bentover rows on bench, thruster, lower back. BM monos are back: index, ring and mid. Then BW one arm hangs front3 on smaller pocket.

[James Malloch]

It’s been about a month since I last posted on here, but the last two weeks of our trip were great (in Chulilla and Siurana). Didn’t do anything hard but some nice onsighting.

Had 2 weeks off on the run up to Xmas and New Year due to it being fucking freezing in France and then visiting relatives.

Had a few sessions since getting back but I’m keen for some real training now I’m back working and everything is soaked.

M.

T. Short board session. All my old problems felt good so i decided to have a max hang benchmark. 1 year ago i did 163% BW for a 7 second, 2 arm hang. Post trip I got up to 178%. I actually changed the edge which will have made some difference (smaller but less rounded which I prefer). Was expecting to get much weaker given I’ve not really tried anything close to my limit for 9 months…

Tried some 1 arm hangs at the end too. Manage 5s on LH with -5kg and 3s on RH with -3kg.

Keen to up these and get to a 10s body weight hang.

W.
T.
F.
S.
S. Walk around the dales - checked out Victoria Cave (Attermire). The 7b+ and 8a both look pretty cool!


Need to have think about some aims for this year. Definitely keen for a fast 8a, and to get to a 10s one arm hang.  I might try to do some work towards a one-arm pull up too given I’m awful at them. Not bothered about doing one as such, but I’m keen for some steeper stuff so strengthening my biceps, chest and shoulders is probably a useful thing…

[spidermonkey09]

Lost in thought and lost in time at Vic cave is one of the best of the grade in the dales, highly recommended!

[reeve]

Lost in thought and lost in time at Vic cave is one of the best of the grade in the dales, highly recommended!

I thought you were still talking about Simon's misuse of the term "flash" to start with

[Fiend]

Lost in thought and lost in time at Vic cave is one of the best of the grade in the dales, highly recommended!

Also as a warm-up (or indeed highlight of the day and one of the sport highlights of the summer, if you're me), Sven Vath is bloody great and underrated two stars  - proper Gogarth vibes going up the groove.

[SA Chris]

Is that seen as a good thing?

[Will Hunt]

T - depot. Chest held up ok. I seem to be on the mend.

Su - attempted the Hitching Stone but stepped in a bog/watercourse up to my balls on the way in. Place was soaked anyway. Retreated to Rivock Edge. Not a crag I'd recommend anyone spend a day at as there's not much there, but did a few nice lowballs and mopped up some FAs. The best was Get your Kicks on the A66, named for the time when a friend wanked himself off while driving said road, came in a petrol receipt and chucked it out the window.

[Fiend]

Welcome back!

[Aussiegav]

Not the fresh start to 23 that I’d hoped for. But improved health wise.


Monday -

Lattice quad block lifts. Shoulder shrugs and single arm hangs.
2 two body weight hangs in open & half crimp
4x 85% hangs Half crimp. BW plus 7.5kg
4x 85% hangs open hand. BW plus 12.7kg


Tuesday

5x 4min boulders
5 purples at the depot. 2 sends , one 3 fails. Ran out of oomph for the 6th. Good session.
Tweak something and started sciatic pain in the evening.

Wednesday
Rest day. Stretching to treat sciatic pain

Thursday

Lattice quad block lifts. Shoulder shrugs and single arm hangs.
2 two body weight hangs in open & half crimp
3 85% hangs Half crimp. BW plus 7.5kg
3 85% hangs open hand. BW plus 12.7kg

Felt good

Friday


Saturday
Depot - Sheffield

6x 4min problems
Managing 2 to 3 goes in the 4 minute working bloc. I  Enjoy this session.
First problem 1st go. Felt better today.  Second problem 3rd go.
 The next 3 I couldn’t do.  But not far off. 


Sunday
30min peloton ride. Felt better and wasn’t coughing every where.
Stretched.  Sciatica still there, but improving.

[Wellsy]

Sorry to hear about the sciatic pain, hope it clears up soon

[James Malloch]

Lost in thought and lost in time at Vic cave is one of the best of the grade in the dales, highly recommended!

Also as a warm-up (or indeed highlight of the day and one of the sport highlights of the summer, if you're me), Sven Vath is bloody great and underrated two stars  - proper Gogarth vibes going up the groove.

Cheers! Look forward to trying them both this summer.

[User deactivated.]

1 year ago i did 163% BW for a 7 second, 2 arm hang. Post trip I got up to 178%. I actually changed the edge which will have made some difference (smaller but less rounded which I prefer). Was expecting to get much weaker given I’ve not really tried anything close to my limit for 9 months…

Life's not fair...

I might try to do some work towards a one-arm pull up too given I’m awful at them. Not bothered about doing one as such, but I’m keen for some steeper stuff so strengthening my biceps, chest and shoulders is probably a useful thing…

I firmly believe it's better to just do weighted pullups for general pulling strength than any 1 arm regressions or front lever variants. They're just so much easier to load consistently and get into the correct rep range (massive water jugs work in the absence of weight plates!). Can't go wrong with a bench press and a standing overhead press for chest and shoulder strength either if you have gym access. I don't think those 3 exercises can be beat for upper body strength. Once per week, 4 sets of 3-6 reps leaving 1-2 reps in reserve, easy! 

[James Malloch]

1 year ago i did 163% BW for a 7 second, 2 arm hang. Post trip I got up to 178%. I actually changed the edge which will have made some difference (smaller but less rounded which I prefer). Was expecting to get much weaker given I’ve not really tried anything close to my limit for 9 months…

Life's not fair...

I might try to do some work towards a one-arm pull up too given I’m awful at them. Not bothered about doing one as such, but I’m keen for some steeper stuff so strengthening my biceps, chest and shoulders is probably a useful thing…

I firmly believe it's better to just do weighted pullups for general pulling strength than any 1 arm regressions or front lever variants. They're just so much easier to load consistently and get into the correct rep range (massive water jugs work in the absence of weight plates!). Can't go wrong with a bench press and a standing overhead press for chest and shoulder strength either if you have gym access. I don't think those 3 exercises can be beat for upper body strength. Once per week, 4 sets of 3-6 reps leaving 1-2 reps in reserve, easy!

I think the absence of any training (pretty much ever) means I’m picking up some easy gains at the moment!

And that’s interesting, thanks! Also much easier to do the weighted pulls.

I’m intending to do Monday evening gym sessions as there’s some leg exercises I’d like to do for running which will be way easier in a gym, so I’ll start to add weighted pulls, bench and shoulder in then too.

Two summers ago I did a spell of going to CrossFit twice a week. I always went to shoulder or chest sessions as they were what I was crap at. I was just sport climbing outdoors at the time and noticed how much stronger I felt after a few months of CrossFit. That’s was lots of bench, OH press etc as long as all the other throwing balls etc around. So makes a lot of sense to get back to doing some of that.

Would you say DB vs Barbell press makes a difference for bench? DB is easier without a spotter I suppose unless you’re using a smith machine (which I hate….).