[SA Chris]

Orange Crush, 8C, Bickerton
I did it but fucking hell Jesus fuck this is hard.

lol. Downgrade time??

[steveri]

I wasn't going to posting but I'm enjoying everyone else's...

Around 350 new boulder problems (to me), very small handful of leads.
Nothing above 6b sport or VS trad (the VS solos were easier than the leads!).

(Bittersweet) Highlights - repeated visits to the little crags I first started on in 1981 - Warton Upper, Pinnacle, Farleton, Windy Clough, Hutton Roof, etc. Combining nostalgia with the last months of my big brother's life, snuffed out to cancer. On the plus side it was brilliant to rediscover the delights of sculpted sharp limestone not thrashed to polished horror. The less said about Warton Main the better though.

Flashing a lovely Warton 6C, taking *lots* of attempts on the 6C next door.

Proper campaign - around 40 attempts on Harold's Wall sitter at Helsby, Mike Adams' start to an older problem. Always found the original hard, got through the start quite quickly but it's droppable in multiple places for me, and I did. Harold Walmsley himself continues to inspire, still new routing and furiously documenting in his 70s.

Still finding ace new places on the Lancs Moors - Dove Lowe for one (fatneck's Jackson Ridge nomination noted). Memorable 3 venue day at Bowland Knotts, Great Stone of Fourstones and Newbiggin. That day I climbed through someone's scattered ashes for the second time this year.

[Andy F]

Man with a Gun, 9a+, Kilnsey
I climbed myself into decent form on this. Then split a tip just as I was making progress. Then it got stinkingly hot. Fuck Kilnsey!

Beautiful writing Will, but bloody hell, a lot of holds must have fallen off Man with a Gun for it to go up from 7c+ to 9a+

[Rocksteady]

This is an awesome thread for psyche. I struggled to get out much again this year; main problem is two children who don't sleep leaving me feeling terribly guilty leaving my wife to deal with them or taking them anywhere or doing anything outside our normal routine that might further exacerbate the issues we have settling them to bed or getting them to sleep through the night!

On the plus side 2022 was definitely a bit better and I did my first climbing trip abroad since 2017.

Top three boulder problems, UK

• 3x problems on the Camel Boulder at Clodgy Point, Cornwall
• The lone problem I did at Godrevy

I had one very abortive day at Godrevy where my sons were misbehaving and there was seaweed everywhere. I did one lovely wave-washed problem from stand then sit that seemed about V2.
I had an amazing day at Clodgy Point with my dad and my 4 year old son. My son managed to do a bit of climbing and felt a sense of achievement then had a great time playing in rockpools, culminating in falling into one. But with true dad wad skills I had brought both spare trousers and spare shoes for him! Definite highlight!
Had a lovely day bouldering in the sun, didn't do anything hard as mostly everything was wet but it was great to be out in a very beautiful setting.

Top three boulder problems, abroad

• Jenny 6C, Magic Wood - flash
• Jedi Jack Links 6C, Magic Wood - flash
• Merlin 6B+, Magic Wood

I mainly enjoyed getting away abroad for a climbing trip and visiting a new area. 6C is my best ever flash level and I managed not one but two. Jenny was very satisfying as there was a big team on it shouting encouragement but felt very soft to me. Everything harder seemed really hard though. Was quite inspired to get strong enough to climb 7B at least. Mainly was great to visit Switzerland with my Swiss friend and also to meet up with my brother and his missus and some of their climbing wad friends. This latter part was actually weirdly difficult as I found Magic Wood extremely hard to navigate.
Also enjoyed Murgtal on the way back to the airport and would go there again with kids. Magic Wood I would visit again with kids if I wanted to get rid of them down a deceptively deep hole.

Top three sport routes UK

• The Unknown Soldier 6b+, Blacknor Far South - Onsight
• Stalker's Zone 6a+, Wallsend South - Onsight
• The Jewel of the Isle 6b+, Wallsend South - Redpoint!

Managed to get a long weekend trip away to Portland with my buddy and no kids which was great! Got on some 3* routes at great crags which didn't disappoint. However, the weekend also was my top #1 spanking.

Top spankings

• Weekend trip to Portland

I've climbed at Portland more than anywhere else but have climbed very little for the last few years. I had massive head issues at Wallsend South where the climbs are 30m and the runouts were longer than I felt comfortable with. Specifically hardish moves without a bolt right there totally freaked me out. Had to redpoint a 6b+ on toprope which I think is the lowest grade redpoint I've ever done. Hopefully I can get in better shape in 2023!

Top non-climbing

• Getting back into MTBing
• Going to a wedding in Cologne with my wife and no kids present
• Getting back into going to the gym

When I look at the above I actually feel a lot better about 2022 and definitely think I got into better shape and did more exercise than the previous years. Deciding to buy an MTB for my 40th and relive my youth was a great decision and I've already had some good days out on it. Easier to do this in Southeast England than go climbing! Feeling positive about 2023.

[ali k]

A bad year for me both climbing and non-climbing. The least amount of climbing I've done in about 10 years.

First 6 months was spent solidly DIYing to insulate above the cellar, prep for the new kitchen being installed, and replastering and decorating the living room. Doesn't sound like 6 months work but there was a lot to do and it consumed me.

Top trad

Dancing Bear - HVD, Brimham
Brother and family was over visiting from NZ in Aug/Sept. This was a magic day out. Beautiful sunshine all day. Exploring the boulders, wriggling through the worm hole, taking my 6yr old nephew up some scrambly pinnacles. Then I soloed Dancing Bear to get a rope up, and three generations of my family managed to get to the top including both parents who are now approaching 80. Never seen anyone try as hard as my mum to get to the top!

Top boulder

Flying Arete SS - 7A, Scout Crag
Just a brilliant line at a new venue to me.

Top spankings

Wetness at Kilnsey then Malham
Finally got back into climbing after my bro left in September. Spent a bit of time at Kilnsey, mainly on Man With a Gun. Just when it felt doable it got really wet so shifted over to Malham in October. Had quite a few sessions on L'Obsession getting higher and higher each time and then when I'd finally built up a bit of endurance enough to stay on in the upper groove almost everything at Malham got piss wet.

Illness
Had to go into A&E in early November with blood coming out of both ends, so after an initial 5 day stay on the ward the rest of Nov and Dec was spent in and out of hospital with various complications. Upshot is I'll need a liver transplant sooner than they'd previously predicted I might. At 39 yrs old this is a pretty shit prospect, especially because in order to be eligible for the surgery I'll need to be sufficiently sick to warrant it. So I've got to deteriorate to that point over the next few years. The silver lining is that survival rate after transplant is much higher with livers than other organs.

Hopefully 2023 is a better year on all fronts.

[SA Chris]

Mate, that sounds like a pretty horrible situation, hope you get  positive outcome.

Things like this are a good reminder to get organ donation sorted.

[Fiend]

Christ Ali that's a good seankenny-level spanking there. Must be hard to deal with at a young age. Best wishes for getting a balance of it being copable but getting the transplant soon. Dancing Bear story was a good read tho.

[Duncan campbell]

Whoa! Sorry to hear you’ll need a liver transplant but also that you’ll need to get more ill in order to get one!

Hope it all works out for the best for you in 2023, Ali!

Almost feel bad about puntering you for dreaming about barrows now 

In reply to SA Chris, I thought organ donorship was now a default that organs are donated unless you opt out kind of deal?

[cheque]

insulate above the cellar, prep for the new kitchen being installed, and replastering and decorating the living room. Doesn't sound like 6 months work

People have taken six years on less!

I echo others’ sympathies about the liver situation. 

[SA Chris]

In reply to SA Chris, I thought organ donorship was now a default that organs are donated unless you opt out kind of deal?

I believe it is, but they need to check if you have specifically opted out and your family can cause delays, whereas if you carry a card there is no doubt.  https://www.organdonation.nhs.uk/talk-to-your-loved-ones/the-organ-donor-card/ Time is everything.

[Ed booth]

Sorry to hear that Ali. Hope its a quick as possible fixing up, and look forward to seeing you crushing again!

[seankenny]

Christ Ali that's a good seankenny-level spanking there. Must be hard to deal with at a young age. Best wishes for getting a balance of it being copable but getting the transplant soon.

It sounds much worse to me!

Ali hope you get this problem sorted as quickly as possible, and that the waiting around isn’t too grim. Long term illness sucks.

[Duncan campbell]

In reply to SA Chris, I thought organ donorship was now a default that organs are donated unless you opt out kind of deal?

I believe it is, but they need to check if you have specifically opted out and your family can cause delays, whereas if you carry a card there is no doubt.  https://www.organdonation.nhs.uk/talk-to-your-loved-ones/the-organ-donor-card/ Time is everything.

Ah didn’t know this… Will get on it. Crazy to not donate your organs!

[nik at work]

The day at Brimhqm sounds perfect.

Wishing you all the best for ‘23

[Wood FT]

All the best to you, Ali. I hope things work out how you need them too quickly.

[andy popp]

Holy hell Ali. Best of luck with it all.

[abarro81]

Sorry to hear that Ali, fingers crossed things go as well as possible

[Fiend]

Hmmmm okay.

Top 3 new routes

Exhume To Consume, Winewall Quarry

Named after the Carcass track of course, which I first heard on the legendary John Peel show, and also after the adjacent gully with some farmer's unfortunate debris in. The insalubrious gully aside, this is THE line of Winewall, searing a line into your eyeballs as soon as you look left after the 1 minute approach. Originally intended to be gained from the adjacent First Vintage, more perusal of the start and some initial squirming unlocked a direct ascent and enough protection to make the classic arete moves feel reasonable - until you're on the post-crux final easier rock-over...

Dead End, Bryn Castell
https://www.facebook.com/Fiend.in.England/posts/pfbid0EZPgNSAUumCLfL1Rz2KGysQRWgzm5BMGjLrUyT5p2VwC5FBGnqE7aP3Sp1wEsLTCl
Another arete which required an "end" name, and could be appropriate if one muffs the final moves. Despite a great line higher up, this has an average start, a scruffy middle with hollow rock, a deviation to place side-runners, and the possibility to hit a sharp glacis edge - so why is it a top three??Because the moves on the exposed upper arete are just so damn good, perfect elegant monkeying-up-a-stick via spaced flakes jugs and crimps, that will feel pretty committing but very rewarding on an onsight. 

Bolt Thrower, Windgate Nick

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wD2C4nC5y4ENamed because, well, it's nicknamed Cat Tor, the grossly inferior E5 is named Catapult, I needed an ancient artillery name... Trebuchet? Bolt Thrower! And since that coincided with the mighty Brummie war metal legends, I had to do it as a matter of urgency! I could have picked any of the 4 routes I did on the Western Front crags near Manchester, and this isn't even my personal favourite experience. But it's maybe objectively the best one, being really amenable, a good line visible from the road, just good fun romping with enough gear and nice micro-exposure.


Top 3 new boulder problems grit

Solace, Standing Stones

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPMpAYoj-4UWell described in my blog, suffice to say the climbing was cool and sketchy, hanging out at the crag was fun, and the extensive patio to make it feasible was perhaps the best bit of all.

Paul's Peach Superdirect, Honley Wood

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1zUBoMtkHUI have no idea what new lines I did here if any, as the guide description and UKC logbook are similarly hopeless and contrary, but I expect it was something, maybe even the excellent "two different shoes and one filed down toe rand to fit the pebbles" superdirect?? Regardless it was rewarding cleaning the slab, cleaning up the confusion of lines, and doing some lovely hidden slabbing as elbow rehab.

Moonwalk, Viewpoint Crag

A perculiar twin to the real Moonwalk (which I did 15 years ago, that now seems like a distant dream), up a flakey arete with a bold but steady teeter around the arete via a hidden pocket. It's a total eliminate avoiding an adjacent corner, but still cool climbing. This was one of a few days out with the irrepressible R-man who is determined to revitalise Lancashire bouldering once more with many new crags and developments for the forthcoming guidebook, you have been warned.


Top 3 new boulder problems Rhinog grit

Chasing Ghosts, Ysgyfarnagod

Named from the patio beneath the adjacent new problem, Katz's Here Hare Here, which turns out to be the work of Emyr Jones who I climbed with on The Range and had previously been exploring Rhinogs bouldering. Despite the patio the lines were too high for a lone wolf, so we ended up picking them off as a larger team. HHH is the king line, but CG is one of the nicest new problems i've done, cool moves via a hidden crimp to a finish on the most perfect rounded jugs, all in one of the most stunning locations in the entire country.

Snootbooper, Fridd

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLUs-nIlr74Named because Pylon King - pagesetter of the forthcoming guide - had explored years ago and nicknamed the feature and his stand-up line The Rabbit. The sitter awaited and was much easier than expected with steady compression moves past a truly lovely sloper pinch, on the usual immaculate rock.

Twisting By The Llyn, Ysgyfarnagod

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8PWH1fRPvQNamed after the twisty moves and the welcoming refreshment of Llyn Ddu scarely 100m away if the sunny grit becomes too much. Part of a charming little Llyn Ddu circuit, itself part of the bigger Ysgyfarnagod circuit, in which the easiest hour walk in the Rhinogs (I did it thrice) takes you to a scenic playground of perfect stone. This was my favourite midgrade problems just due to the techy moves and a committing finish.


Top 3 new boulder problems South Snowdonia / Llyn

Sais Highway, Cwm Orthin

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rz-8kUnfwTo&Named after the new A487 Caernarfon bypass that ferries sais conts to the Llyn in unprecedented European-quality comfort. Apparently unclaimed and possibly unclimbed, this is a striking line right on the Craig Y Clipiau approach and 5 minutes from the carpark. Maybe too dodgy pre-pads and not "sick" enough since them? It's also damn good with plentiful holds allowing the arete to succumb to a steady au cheval approach.

Noodles, Porth Howel

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OxiH3mG_9BINamed after Noodles of course. Hosey introduced me to Porth Howel in the pissing rain, and after too many visits I finally filled this gap before the sun crept onto it. Porth Howel is a lovely spot, with a spectacular walk down to it, and the mischievous pebbles that sometimes obscure the problems's starts also provide a welcoming atmosphere and good lone wolf landings. Noodles is a bit of an eliminate, but it's on great, aesthetic rock, has cool techy and powerful moves, and I had to put some damn effort in.

End Game, Bryn Castell

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdWJumEesQ8Named in conjunction with a new route I did on the crag above - an arete named End Times as it's a similar twin to End Action on Foel Gron. End Game is also an arete but being a boulder problem, got a more playful name. The Bryn Castell boulder cluster had already been developed by Terry and Mari, and as always they'd focused on traverses and steep lowballs and left the best line of the entire area untouched. Thankfully it even escaped the addition of Ross Barker as he focused on board-style brutality just to the right, leaving me to womble in and find that plentiful holds and a really cool heel-toe made it fairly steady and as good as the line looked.


Top 3 Welsh climber's dogs

1= Noodles!
1= Conor!
1= The Pog!


Top 3 Lancs cleaning

Ten Minutes Before The Worm, Egerton
2+ hours of cleaning over 2 abseils was nothing unusual, neither was a rusty peg removal, upgrade, nor upstarring. But it was a pleasure to return the next day for more cleaning and find a psyched couple enjoying the route and confirming the quality.

Left Wall, Harcles Hill
2 x 5 hour sessions in summer to turn an unfeasible top into an actual climb, and open up a few nice wall climbs below, I'm looking forward to a climbing visit this summer.

Bridge Buttress, Egerton
A multi-session revamp of this underrated and compact buttress, that's returned it to a genuinely good wee buttress, a real transformation.


Top 3 spankings

Increasingly severe depression through entire year, increasing breakdowns in winter.
utter shit

Golfers elbow Jan / Feb then May - December, LCL tear Jan - Mar, tennis elbow April - June
perma-injury thus no escape into simple physical challenge

Worst year for normal climbing (inc confidence, fitness, strength) for about 17 years
also utter shit, albeit not as utter shit as depression

[spidermonkey09]

Left Wall, Harcles Hill
2 x 5 hour sessions in summer to turn an unfeasible top into an actual climb, and open up a few nice wall climbs below, I'm looking forward to a climbing visit this summer.

Shout me when you do as thats about 5 minutes from my house!

[Fiend]

Done! There's an likely unrepeated E6 eliminate on old bolts for you to do, and a cool E4 6b steep crack I cleaned up too.

[Gus]

Come on yesssss! The best thread on the internet is back! Great work everyone and ace often funny stories! 

Another year of climbing taking a back seat to make space for some specialist skills that I need to acquire for career goals(never thought I’d say that!!) but don’t regret it as I’ve accomplished some major aims that have been super rewarding. Still quite a bit of work to do but if I can have the same success in 2023 I’ll hopefully achieve what will the biggest goal I’ve ever set myself!

 Also had a few annoying injuries including a broken toe (from kicking people obviously…) and a weird cod arm that meant I couldn’t bend or flex it!


Top 3 Trad

Big Boys Don’t Cry, E4 5c. The Logan Rock
This was really cool as it’s in a very special place to me, one of mine and my late Dad’s favourite places overlooking the amazing Treen beach. A very recent addition so think this was the 2nd ascent? I literally just had the ukclimbing description to go off but it’s pretty unmistakable. Seriously bold and basically a 20m solo and could be E5 at other crags. Great friction only padding with no handholds. Perfect rehab for a cod arm!

New Mediterranean, E6 6c. Rivelin
Bit of a rematch/ nemesis from what doesn’t seem that long ago, but is probably 15 years ago! Previously tried ground up with some ground/ ledge sweeping falls including snapping 2 RP’s  with the swing/ grinding of the gear. Full on top rope tough guy scenes this time round, can’t believe I was tickling the pocket ground up back then, standing into the undercut is absolutely nails and I remember it feeling caj! I was a right tenacious little minister!!

The Cull, E3 5c. The Lizard
Absolutely phenomenal pitch and again good rehab for the broken toe and arm! I had zero fitness or trad head which made it all the better really as it would be a bit of a romp with a bit of either. One of those first trad routes back where you select a rock 10, then a 9, then an 8 etc etc only to settle on a perfect rock 2! Doh! Reminded me of Pabbay and was lovely to ab in and chill just above the sea with Vicks before getting psyched and dispatching in very slow/ considered style hanging onto every jug depumping for ages just in case there’s a hard bit.

Top 3 Boulders/ deathballs

Isla de Grace, 7a/ E6 6c. Froggatt
Always wondered where this was, turns out it’s right next to the road on the Froggatt bend. Turbo esoterica, so right up my street. At 5’8” I was just the right height to get good value out of this, any taller and it gets lots easier with one less move which is the crux. Constructed a bouncy castle of branches and cut down trees with a couple of pads on, main challenge was not falling onto it, bouncing, landing in the road about 2 metres away and getting hit by a passing truck. Spicy! Was cool to get messages from subsequent ascentionists shortly after saying "thanks for the landing!" Love that sort of stuff with the UK climbing scene!

Turd Burglar, E6 6b. Froggatt
Another bit of unfinished bizzle from long ago. Great to get it done and has some lovely slab climbing with the crux low down but a steady head required for the top. Great to share the experience with Octavia, neither our ascents were without incident or a bit of a wobble!!

Dragon Slayer, 7a+. Wharncliffe
Basically my perfect day out, a load of soloing, tradding (including the fantastic “Autumn Wall”) finished off with some bouldering. This prow/ overhang is a lovely problem and climbs really well. Finished off with a couple o’ three pints in a nice pub in Grenoside. Ideal day!!!

Top 3 Uk Sport

The Wasp Factory, 7b. Fedr Fawr.
I love going to new crags, especially by the sea. That feeling of having the whole place to go at, at every grade is so good and gets me so psyched. Had a lovely 2 days here and again lack of fitness meant I got full value from all the routes here, especially this! It’s quite a tough little cookie! Some great wildlife here too including dolphins and seals!

White Gold, 7a+. Chee Tor.
Blimey, glad I didn’t do this when it was a trad route, would be utterly terrifying! Big up whoever bolted / gave permission for the routes at the left hand end of Chee tor. They’re great additions and another nice couple of days were had down there.

Flatworld/ Southern Man, 7b. Horsehoe Quarry
Mainly as an exercise in “what can you climb with a broken toe and a massive boat shoe on your right foot.” A couple of friends had set the challenge of climbing all the main face routes at Horseshoe, with these two being the toughest, especially in the sun, so I offered myself up as sacrificial beta monkey and really enjoyed them.

Top 3 / Only Euro Sport

Calmes Vous ca va passer 7a+
L’esthete en l’air 6c+
Porc et Camion 6b+

All at Gorges du Tarn. Good routes but literally the only foreign routes I did, again with a freshly broken toe and a ridiculous clown boot on my right foot which felt pretty grim on the teccy foot moves. The pockets on the 6b+ were full of those caterpillar ministers, but I didn’t realise they were poisonous so was pulling them out with my hands. Luckily I got away with it, although members of our team were really suffering from them.

First Acents:

“Everybody in the Plaice” 7a+, Deep Zawn.
Very much enjoyed this despite wrecking my arm falling off it. Deep Zawn is a pretty cool and useful little DWS venue, as you can climb at mid/ lowish tide when the stuff at Cave Hole is out. This is marked as a project in one of the older Dorset guides (but weirdly not in the DWS guide or more recent guides)
Annoyingly you have to ab in and ditch your harness (which is probably the crux whilst hanging on steep ground) and would probably be better to just climb down a knotted rope. The low start traversing in is still to be had if anyones keen? As well as the groove to the right.


Top Spankings

Grand Plage, E5 6b. Carn Barra.
More of a dodged bullet than a spanking as it was in my guidebook at E3 6a. Luckily my broken toe, lack of fitness and it being on the ab line ( and probably it not looking like E3 to me) meant I could have a cheeky play on top rope, and I’m very glad I did. Turns out that the boulder that you step off at the start is missing, and there’s been a large section come off, all adding up to making it hard, spicy and with specific very fiddly gear. Was psyched to see Reeve looking over the top as I was on it, so was happy to dispense some beta and demo the moves to enable an impressive flash by him which was great to watch!

Booby Prize, E6 6b. North Devon/ Cornwall.
This one just slipped through the net on the last day of an awesome 3 day trip to the Sharpnose area. What an awesome, unique route!!
Ground up plans were quickly aborted and after 3 days of climbing it was all we could do to figure out a sequence. In hindsight should have had a lead go as would have probably scraped up it but it would have been pretty fierce! Super keen to head back fresh with some fitness in the tank!

Northern Comfort, E6 6c. The Roaches
Aaaaaaarrgh gutted. This one’s been on my “mate’s rates” ticklist for ages and finally got round to trying it, only to find out what I suspected. That it’s just too much of a stretch. I’m a key believer that where there’s a will there’s a way, but I don’t think so in this case. Waaaaaaa. I did find a possible, very hard sequence for someone strong and taller than me but not necessarily 6’4” or whatever, so don’t be put off having a go. Props to Grimer for an amazing FA, and Anti T for a waddage repeat!!

Top 3 jobs

Fall testing for game show.
Can’t say too much about this but it was pretty cool testing various falls from a platform that unlucky members of the public will take if they make the wrong decision when competing on the show. At least they won’t get shot in the head though (hint)

Anti Terrorism Training film for the security services
One of the most harrowing, but fun jobs ever being one of the designated terrorists stabbing up my colleagues and throwing Molotov cocktails. It was all pre-rehearsed but when they bring in 100 extras and the action is in the middle of it all, it looked a bit too real and savage.

Getting tazered by one of my favourite actors.
Not for real obviously, but pretty cool all the same!

Top 3 achievements

Black belt in K1 Kickboxing.
Another one to add to the collection. Think this is my 4th black belt in various styles but the one I’m most proud of. 2 days of hell but well worth it!

Precision and Stunt driving training completed along with 3 Rallies!
Cost a small fortune but seriously good fun and awesome to be able to crack out a 180 handbreak turn or J-turn at will, even done a few in the van!!! Managed to come 2nd in class at one of the rallys too!!
As my instructor said: “what’s the fastest car in the world…..? …..A hire car!!!”
Drive it like you stole it innit!

PADI Scuba Diving Divemaster qualification.
Basically an assistant instructor level award. Really enjoyed the whole SCUBA journey, which included diving/ wrestling with seals off of Lundy (they were a bit frisky and bitey!!) and getting into the instruction and supervision side of things. It was a great summer to be doing it and I’ll definitely keep it up!


On another note, gonna get Decomposed Radio back up and running. First up will be my set from this year's works party which was as wild and awesome as ever!

 

Keep 'em coming, it's great for psyche and just general great climbing vibes, always remember, as Blackadder says about blowing your own trumpet:
"You might as well let us know you have a trumpet ...."

[Ed booth]

Great thread. Maes me even more psyched for this new year after reading what everyone has been getting up to. 

Top three boulder problems, UK
-Cosmic Wheels, Mallory Boulder. Nice to tick this quickly in a sesh feeling like the board strength was translating well.
-Crumble(Post-break 1), Dugout Grinshill. Took me more goes to do than I was expecting. A nice addition from Ally S.
-Ultimate Warrior, Arse end of Welsh nowhere. Very basic. Very good. After losing most of late spring summer to cycling and then finding out that I lost all form when I went climbing again in the autumn, this felt like a lovely little tick in December feeling like I was pulling again.

Top three trad routes/solos UK
Did I even do 3??
- Catalepsy (Boulder prob crux, but big enough topping out) Great day at Pex and felt brill doing some techy moves on this.
- Plexus. Remembering what is great about British mountain trad and the beautiful rock up in this part of the Pass. I was balls deep in Cycling training at this point of the year and barely climbing, so it was really nice one hot day to bail over here with my bro and climb 3 pitches tops off even in the shade and just loving life.
- Jasmine . Kind of thought I wasn't really psyched for any bold head-pointing anymore. I went along having already said no matter how I found it on a rope I wouldn't solo it. After belaying Nick Dixon solo it (rope to pull onto pads) I tried again and realised I felt like it was highly unlikely to fall off the moves, so just thought stop with the arbitrary rules and apply some common sense and judgement in the moment. I actually think with a rope pulling you onto pads its not as dodgy as first appears, so I did it and obviously went totally fine and remembered what I used to love about head pointing.

Top three sport routes UK
- No Kneed 8a+ Dinbren, Good to finish this off after not doing it few years back. Difference was some adjustment micro beta out of a kneebar, in order to gain the elusive extra inch that had denied me other attempts.
- This is the Sea/That was the River, on sighted the 7b+, and on way down tried the move of the 7c+ start and managed to do it, so tied in for a quick end of day RP just before we had to leave. Do like the Cornice.
-Cavity Wall (Llanberis slate) Great to do a route here again and remeber why I love slate and all it's wonderful subtleties.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Piaz Aete, Vajolet towers, Dolomites. Must be one of the more stunning HS routes of the world. Turbo exposure from the off!

Top spankings/Thefts
Don't know if these fall into spanking but felt a bit robbed with all of these. They all felt like just a bit of bad luck mixed with perhaps not the best tactics meant I fell off the top of basically the last move of all of these and didn't get chance to finish them again (many due to being wet when I returned). Didn't do much climbing in '22 but falling off the last holds seemed like a bit of a theme on fair few of the routes I did nearly do.
- Soft Option (8a+ in my book). Amazing climbing. Would love to finish this one off. Punisher for the unfit.
- Wish You Were Here 7c+, Llanberis slate. Started the session thinking it was impossible. By end of session I was pressing up to the jug having red pointed through all the meat only to slip just before my fingers got there. Heartbreak. A week later and it was a waterfall, and haven't been back yet.
- Yellow Wall 7a+ 13 Pitch, Cima Picocla. Thought I stood an alright chance on this, but after a week of road bike racing over mountain passes int he Dolomites think I was a bit fucked and generally just not in any climbing shape having been cycling all summer, so actually the reality of doing this clean was probably massively over ambitious and naive in the circumstances. Sad retreat ensued from just under half way. Tank Empty.  Also started up the wrong few pitches and had to do some terrifying traverse across choss to get back on route which spooked me out

Top non-climbing
Haute Route, Dolomites. Amazing amazing 5 day bike Race. Basically felt like an amateur Tour de France. 4 mountain stages ranging 60-100 miles each, and an individual TT up Monte Bondone in 1hr12 on the middle day. Great to do with my brother and despite of all out effort we pretty much finished on exactly the same GC time bar a bit he gained just from being in a different place in the pack going over the start line time belt ( should have seen this, he did it every day  ) Totally amazing event. Missed my daughters 4th birthday to do this and after all the training, crossing the finish line of the last stage along side my brother felt really special and very emotional. Especially with the last climb to the line being the Tre Cime road which is just ridiculous, so steep and unrelenting. Pissed it down just after we finished as well so even better to get lucky all fives days with no rain or punctures. Top 50 finish.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Great thread, seeing what everyone has been up to get's me so psyched - does also make my paltry achievements this year seem pretty tame so must try harder!! 

Here goes nothing...

Top three boulder problems, UK

Nothing of note...

Top three trad routes/solos UK

• Mad Bilberries - E1 6a - Good fun solo
• Some Carn Barra HVS's
• Some ace soloing around Pedn Vounder

Top three sport routes UK

• Hilti Sound System F7a @ Masson - Good sustained crimping
• Black Friday F7a @ Rhossili - Tricky
• Seven Sisters F7b @ Houghton  - Bit dusty but felt like I had to pull hard, nice!

Probably all count as chossy bits of crap to the likes of Fiend but I enjoyed them  ...

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

• Dingomaniaque F6c+ @ The Verdon - Grand day out, must have run it out by around 9 metres at one point climbing into no-mans land, fully immersive experience, loved every minute (I think)!
• La Demande F6a (more like E2 5b!) @ The Verdon - What can I say? Mega classic!
• Yanap F7b @ Spartan Wall Kalymnos - Wanted to do this last year, hoped for the onsight but dropped the low crux. Only had one RP opportunity and once I'd got through the low crux I had the full 50m experience including almost dropping it at the chains due to rope drag - cracking route!

Top spankings

Not trying anything harder than F7b!
Falling out with my 15 YO son so badly that he ended up breaking my nose and hasn't spoken to me for a month!
Falling on a bothched onsight of a supposed F7c (now F7b) and causing my GF to twist her ankle so badly she refused to belay me on anything I thought I might drop for 2 weeks of a 3 week trip....(in other ways it was pretty sweet as I did a shitload of mega Kalymnos F6c's I wouldn't usually have done!)

Top non-climbing

• Got a job working @ Moon - Great team, full psyche and totally get what makes me tick - not sure you could say that for most employers
• Built a cabin in the garden to work in
• Took both kids somewhere awesome - the boy on an epic up Tryffan and the girl sea kyaking around Lands End with a family of Seals
• Got a board and started surfing after a looooong hiatus - loving it!

[PeteHukb]

I, too, have been inspired to chip in to this thread by everyone else's contributions, whether glorious, sobering or all-too-familiar. Thanks, folks.

Overall it's probably been my best year of climbing for about eight years, although I guess there I'm defining "best" pretty narrowly based on sport grades achieved rather than by volume of climbing or awesome trips away; the former is a much more realistic metric at the moment given two small kids in the mix.

Bouldering
It's been a year of almost completely local bouldering, snatching odd hours in between domestic tasks, work and dropping off/picking up kids etc. Despite that I've done a few things I'm happy with.
- Green Wing at Baildon Bank. This felt like my complete anti-style - steep, powerful, undercuts, so was very pleased to get it done in a couple of sessions.
- I finally got around to putting together my little Baildon Bank video. It's an odd crag but I like it.
- I did also have a lovely couple of hours with my sister at Fair Head boulders. We used to climb a lot together but now she lives somewhere rubbish called Bishop.

Sport
Having not climbed 7c since 2018, and 7c+ since 2016, this year I climbed two-ish of each, proving to myself that if I don't get injured I can make satisfactory progress even with just two or three short home training sessions a week and only getting outdoors twice a month. Good news for the next few years!
- Myra, Henry's, Mighty Fine Ass, Little Ernie
- Cave Route Right second go was a great experience too.
Psyched to aim for 8a in 2023!

Training and injuries
No new significant injuries, and even successfully rehabbed a minor pulley strain like someone who's actually learned their lessons!
Elbows a perennial issue but have managed flare-ups acceptably. I've stopped trying to aggressively stretch and knead my medial epicondyle every time it gets tweaked and have realised I just need to back off for a week or so and then be super-strict on form.
Trying to keep knees in reasonable shape.

Spankings/failed ambitions
Virtually zero trad despite a constant vague ambition to do more.
There seemed to be very few days to get on Red Baron Roof, so that's rolled over to 2023, again.

Life
Work is good; I'm really grateful to be able to say that.
The kids are now 5 and 3; next year they'll both be in school, somehow! I'm still working on being as good a father as I naively assumed I'd be - but no-one tells you how hard it actually is, or if they do you think they're just being hilarious. I suspect part of the reason this year has gone better climbing-wise is that the kids are sleeping way better. So for any others with those issues...

I struggled to get out much again this year; main problem is two children who don't sleep leaving me feeling terribly guilty leaving my wife to deal with them or taking them anywhere or doing anything outside our normal routine that might further exacerbate the issues we have

... I sympathise completely. We reached our wit's end a year and a bit ago when our almost-four-year-old was waking up screaming 5 to 8 times a night. We thought we'd tried everything, but the Millpond Sleep Clinic helped us hugely. It wasn't cheap, but there was no amount of money we wouldn't have paid to have more sleep. It's also not fixed everything: it's still maybe only once every week or two that both kids sleep through, and most nights it's 2-3 wake-ups between them, but that's a lot more manageable. Happy to chat further on DMs if anyone's interested in how to manage night terrors or anything about Millpond!

Thanks again everyone!

[SA Chris]

We used Millpond with LO one as he was a terrible sleeper right up until my wife was due to go back to work, and it worked pretty well, but not 100%. Thankfully little sis was a doddle by comparison when it came to night, but we still used it to get her to take decent naps in the day, as she was a terror in this respect.