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Best of 2022 (Read 17636 times)

GazM

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#125 Re: Best of 2022
January 09, 2023, 09:26:49 am
Great to hear things are on the up PeteHukb, and all the other sleep deprived parents. Our wee ones (5 and 3) sleep really well now and have done for a while but the youngest was a terror for his first couple of years which really knocked us for six. It's hard to describe to anyone outside of the immediate family how much of an impact it has on everything and to be honest I still think my wife is recovering from it several years later.

SA Chris

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#126 Re: Best of 2022
January 09, 2023, 09:32:23 am
My sleep never recovered either, never sleep through the night any more, but that could just be age.

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#127 Re: Best of 2022
January 09, 2023, 12:00:19 pm
Great to hear things are on the up PeteHukb, and all the other sleep deprived parents. Our wee ones (5 and 3) sleep really well now and have done for a while but the youngest was a terror for his first couple of years which really knocked us for six. It's hard to describe to anyone outside of the immediate family how much of an impact it has on everything and to be honest I still think my wife is recovering from it several years later.

It is really great to see these responses on sleep and to see that you guys are out climbing again. My eldest is nearly 5, youngest 20 months - I feel like I've had about 6 months of good sleep in 5 years now. The comment re: life changing impact really resonates, almost makes me feel like crying tbh. I literally do not feel like I am the same person anymore. It is nice to see that there is hope.

accynez

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#128 Re: Best of 2022
January 09, 2023, 08:36:19 pm
Have enjoyed reading many of these and so felt obliged to actually contribute instead of just stalking for a change.

Top 3 boulders

Slopey Trav 7C Almscliff
Got around to actually investing some time into this and glad I did. Very rewarding and had to do it twice as I had a slight dab that would have eaten away at me on the first send(non-send) Took 3 sessions and a very cold day.

Texas Hold Em' 7B+ Trowbarrow
This has always been wet but found it dry and even had a knee pad with me. Some damn slippy slopers on this.

Renaissance 7B+ Baildon
This is a superb feature and it climbs just as good as it looks.

Sport UK First Ascents

Well Connected 8a+ Malham
A first ascent on the catwalk WTF! I had looked at the hanging groove feature 2m left of the Raindogs belay for years and eventually got round to investigating it more closely whilst doing some re-equipping over the winter. The resulting route starts up Connect 4 before a superb sequence heads off rightwards to gain some pretty stern finishing moves to a perfect little tufa next to the belay. Maybe one day someone will extend it through the roof to give an awesome 9c ???

Taxus Baccata 8a Yew Cogar
This was Innes Deans old proj and I'd been badgering him for a while about passing it on. He relented this year and even made a trip down there to put the hangers back on for us! A gracious gesture. Lincoln had a cheeky solo trip to clean it and work the moves the day before so unsurprisingly he redpointed it first and I slapped my way over the line an hour later. A good addition to a great crag.

Top 3 Sport UK

The Perfect Mirage 8a Gordale
First hard route after recovering from an A2 pulley tear sustained at start of May that put me out of action till mid July meant this was a great milestone. Very good route as well that sees very little attention as its on 'The Other Side' away from the main event of Cave route area.

Ingham's Route 7c Tilberthwaite
Really enjoyed this. Super tech and thin and a very good test of finger re-hab! On gaining the good holds after the hard climbing I declared it the hardest route I've ever done and true to form Mitch declared I made it look it! :lol:

Conceptual Continuity 8a Malham
Decided on a whim to try this and glad I did. I worked it on the first day then went back and re-bolted the upper half a few days later and somehow managed to redpoint the same day. A wild little route that deserves more attention than it gets. Very soft at 8a as well!

Trad Onsights
Didn't really do any as the A2 injury put me out for most of the summer.

Top 3 Trad Headpoints

Janus E7 Curbar
Just superb. Amazing movement and pretty safe. Thoroughly enjoyed having to try really hard on this, skin of the teeth as they say.

Torture Board E7 Reecastle
Found this really tough, possibly pushing 7c+?
Employed the dodgy tactic of placing a wire above the peg and clipping them together so as to take any doubt away from the peg which I then tested by falling on it 3 times I think. If that peg ever fails on someone the resulting fall may well be life changing.

Exponential Exhaustion E7 Kilnsey
There was a lot of discussion about retro bolting old trad routes that rely on a lot of old fixed gear amongst the Kilnsey regulars this year. I wanted to bolt some of them, others wanted them to stay as they are. One of the upshots of this was Mike Grey taking Exponential off the table by stripping the pegs out of it and leading it as a pure trad route. I was impressed by his 'actions speak louder than words' approach and was inspired to follow suit. The routes around 7b+/7c and is pretty bold, protected by small wires and the climbing is every bit as good as that on Biological next door.

Other highlights

A wonderful late summer morning swinging along Rainbow Bridge with an old friend. This was only a few weeks after starting back climbing again after nearly 3 months off with the finger. Super psyched, what a route.

2 trips to Margalef doing loads of on sighting and beer drinking with good friends.

Neil F

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#129 Re: Best of 2022
January 09, 2023, 08:52:28 pm
Nice one Neil.  Some crackers there  :bow:

Man, I miss the Yorkshire limestone scene….

Neil

haydn jones

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#130 Re: Best of 2022
January 09, 2023, 09:19:15 pm
beta for slopey trav would be good nez, i've picked up a dodgy pully in both hands so currently avoiding any crimping. tried it the other day but couldn't work it out!

also anyone has recommendations for non crimpy grit 7B-8A im all ears.

PeteHukb

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#131 Re: Best of 2022
January 09, 2023, 10:54:10 pm
Don't suppose you made a video of Renaissance, did you? Or any beta to pass on?

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#132 Re: Best of 2022
January 09, 2023, 11:18:40 pm

Top 3 Trad

Big Boys Don’t Cry, E4 5c. The Logan Rock
This was really cool as it’s in a very special place to me, one of mine and my late Dad’s favourite places overlooking the amazing Treen beach. A very recent addition so think this was the 2nd ascent? I literally just had the ukclimbing description to go off but it’s pretty unmistakable. Seriously bold and basically a 20m solo and could be E5 at other crags. Great friction only padding with no handholds. Perfect rehab for a cod arm!


I’m super psyched to see this in your top three trad routes for the year.  I did the first ascent, and it’s one of very few routes I have put up that I genuinely think is really good.  :2thumbsup:

I dithered over whether to give it E4 or E5 - glad to know I was in the right ballpark anyway!

Tom Last gifted this to me after he fell off an earlier lead attempt and hit the floor pretty hard on rope stretch (hence the route name).  Fortunately he only showed me the video after I had led it, as it was proper gut wrenching viewing and although he was on the crux there is more slab padding to go after that, so I think seeing it might have put me off!

kingholmesy

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#133 Re: Best of 2022
January 09, 2023, 11:27:15 pm
P.s. pretty sure yours will have been the second ascent as you say.

Honestly is a great bit of climbing up a striking slab.  Get to it people …!

kingholmesy

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#134 Re: Best of 2022
January 09, 2023, 11:39:33 pm
P.p.s. There’s a video still of Tom taking the ride here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=346429

What the still doesn’t capture is the sickening thud as he hits the floor followed by his low groaning.  :sick:

scragrock

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#135 Re: Best of 2022
January 10, 2023, 05:55:00 am
Great to hear things are on the up PeteHukb, and all the other sleep deprived parents. Our wee ones (5 and 3) sleep really well now and have done for a while but the youngest was a terror for his first couple of years which really knocked us for six. It's hard to describe to anyone outside of the immediate family how much of an impact it has on everything and to be honest I still think my wife is recovering from it several years later.

It is really great to see these responses on sleep and to see that you guys are out climbing again. My eldest is nearly 5, youngest 20 months - I feel like I've had about 6 months of good sleep in 5 years now. The comment re: life changing impact really resonates, almost makes me feel like crying tbh. I literally do not feel like I am the same person anymore. It is nice to see that there is hope.

Yup, i concur, Brilliant to hear from those who have got through it. Our ones are 4 and 7months. First 2 years with the eldest were very difficult {and its still not entirely resolved}, thanks to the incredible efforts of my wife and her never-ending levels of patience and understanding {she is my Hero} we managed with a little input from me to scrape by, then we ruined our new found sleep by having another one   :lol:

I do hope this year is kinder to all those sleep deprived parents out there and you manage to fit in a wee climb for yourself :)

SA Chris

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#136 Re: Best of 2022
January 10, 2023, 08:59:24 am
Honestly is a great bit of climbing up a striking slab.  Get to it people …!

Not exactly selling it! I remember shurt and I wandering about that stretch of coast after doing Diocese back in 2002, trying to find the actual Logan Rock, and failing spectacularly, and doing some sketchy scrambles in trainers.

webbo

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#137 Re: Best of 2022
January 10, 2023, 09:11:57 am
P.s. pretty sure yours will have been the second ascent as you say.

Honestly is a great bit of climbing up a striking slab.  Get to it people …!
It would appear to be the third ascent according to UKC as Tom went back and RP it.

accynez

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#138 Re: Best of 2022
January 10, 2023, 09:29:11 am
Don't suppose you made a video of Renaissance, did you? Or any beta to pass on?

There's a vid on Hadyn's insta. Only difference is myself and Louis went for the top left hand instead of right hand as couldn't make the left heel work.

accynez

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#139 Re: Best of 2022
January 10, 2023, 11:16:47 am
beta for slopey trav would be good nez

Just uploaded the footage to YT. I had to use a lot of heel! Strong folks can do it without.

dunnyg

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#140 Re: Best of 2022
January 10, 2023, 11:48:07 am
I should try it with heels! Beta appreciated

haydn jones

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#141 Re: Best of 2022
January 10, 2023, 02:36:27 pm
Cheers nez. It's the high slopers I wasn't using. Looks like a game changer keen for a rematch

kingholmesy

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#142 Re: Best of 2022
January 10, 2023, 06:08:41 pm

Not exactly selling it!

The moves are great - and Tom lived to tell the tale so it can’t be that dangerous. :lol:

kingholmesy

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#143 Re: Best of 2022
January 10, 2023, 06:13:47 pm

It would appear to be the third ascent according to UKC as Tom went back and RP it.

I know from speaking to him that’s Tom’s not been back on it.  He has logged the date he decked it.  Should probably be shown as lead dnf rather than lead RP, but don’t suppose it matters.

Gus

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#144 Re: Best of 2022
January 11, 2023, 12:22:24 pm
Great stuff. Glad he got away with that fall! No wonder it felt like a solo without the skyhooks!!

That photo of the fall is outrageous!

The route really reminded me of some of those classic grit slab frighteners, with no handholds/ just pebbles for hands. Really enjoyed it!

psyched to go back with my big cam and do some of the cracks!

kingholmesy

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#145 Re: Best of 2022
January 11, 2023, 10:28:14 pm

psyched to go back with my big cam and do some of the cracks!

Take a camalot 6 and get on Jack Yer Body.  In common with Big Boys Don’t Cry it is also E4, 5c.

The same grade and equally brilliant, but I do not think you could find two routes within 50 metres of each other that are more different.

ali k

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#146 Re: Best of 2022
January 13, 2023, 09:24:06 pm
Only just got round to replying to this, but just wanted to say thanks for all the messages of sympathy on here and in private. To see me you wouldn’t have a clue anything is wrong, which is weird. Apparently with livers you can often be completely asymptomatic almost until the point it just gives up and goes into complete failure. So it’s lucky I was even diagnosed when I was.

Re transplants - live liver transplant is also an option. Pretty amazingly both donor and recipient organs apparently can grow back to full size. Had two family members offer this so hopefully can get sorted when the time comes!

SA Chris

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#147 Re: Best of 2022
January 13, 2023, 10:29:31 pm
Bizarrely I just read the section on the liver in Bill Bryson's "The Body" and it said exactly that.

A good reason to carry a donor card to ensure your bits are repurposed as swiftly as possible should anything unfortunate happen.

remus

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#148 Re: Best of 2022
April 25, 2023, 09:17:30 pm
  • Trav proj at Moat Buttress (basically a short version of Against the Current) - Put quite a few sessions in to this and worked out some nice beta, only for some of the holds to fall off. Worked out some more beta but then it got hot and it was pretty much a write off for the rest of the summer. Definitely a spanking in terms of not getting close, but psyched for a rematch. Maybe that is more light flagellation than a full spanking?

Which holds have fallen off Against The Current Remus?

Had another session on this today and got a pic for you https://photos.app.goo.gl/p87qHXVPzydRgrWL7

The circled hold on the left is the beak, the top hold is the thin glued crimp and the right most hold is the flakey undercut I was using that is now broken. There's still something left on it but it's a lot less positive than it used to be and doesn't work for me any more.

Andy B

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#149 Re: Best of 2022
April 25, 2023, 10:46:31 pm
Thanks Remus.

 

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