the shizzle > board construction FAQs

App for your woodie

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GazM:
Brilliant, sounds like Retroflash gets the UKB consensus. I'll have a look.

scragrock:
I use a heady mix of ouija board paraphernalia , anthropometrics and female intuition in order to in No way recreate the God awful problems that i have set in a previous dervish delirium.

I do hope this helps Gaz :2thumbsup:

remus:
Im a big fan of BoulderBot https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.boulderbot.app.android

It does the usual stuff where you can put problems together by selecting holds, but the super cool thing is it can auto-generate problems for you to try. The rate of good problems is actually fairly low (maybe 1 in 10?) but they're generated instantly, and I find it fairly easy to tell when something is going to work or not. For me it's an absolute lifesaver when I'm having one of those sessions where I feel uninspired. It's come up with loads of cool problems and moves that are now board classics.

sdm:
Just to add to the consensus. I wouldn't consider Stokt unless you've got more money than sense.

Of the free apps, I would order them Retro Flash > Eat Spray Climb > Open Climb. I've now moved on to using Chroma to go with my LEDs, but I don't think that's intended for general release yet.

They all do the job and they all have their quirks and annoyances but are great value for your £0.

Some advantages to Retroflash:

1) If, like me, you forget beta quickly, the ability to save beta videos can be very helpful. Saves a lot of wasted attempts in power endurance sessions
2) If you struggle with setting problems, you can ask a mate to set problems for you through the app. Can be good if you always end up setting the same style problems.
3) You can group problems in to folders for quick navigation to Projects, Warm ups, Power Endurance problems etc.
4) You can filter problems by style if you want to work on a particular type of problem.
It has some social aspects which you may like or hate. They're easily ignored if they aren't for you.

+1 to using Boulder Bot too if you're struggling for inspiration when setting problems. A lot of what it comes up with is log but you can quickly scroll through until it creates something decent, and then enter that in to whatever app you use. Its success rate is low but it's come up with some bangers that I never would have tried setting myself. I have to tweak every start move though, it doesn't seem to understand a board without a kickboard so it overestimates how high I can reach from a sitstart and how low I can reach with my feet after sticking the first move.

dunnyg:
There's an app called boulder book which I've been told is better and less buggy than retroflash. Not used properly yet but going to try once all the holds are back on the board

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