the shizzle > board construction FAQs
App for your woodie
MischaHY:
Another vote for boulderbot being super useful. I'd actually say it's a fair bit better than 1/10 but the key is to increase 'length'
slightly alongside difficulty - what this effectively means is that it gives itself permission to add in 1-2 extra holds which generally make the movement a bit more realistic.
crzylgs:
--- Quote from: MischaHY on December 20, 2022, 08:24:14 am ---Another vote for boulderbot being super useful. I'd actually say it's a fair bit better than 1/10 but the key is to increase 'length'
slightly alongside difficulty - what this effectively means is that it gives itself permission to add in 1-2 extra holds which generally make the movement a bit more realistic.
--- End quote ---
This is similar to my experience with Boulder Bot. Is a fun app to use helps with the common issue of setting moves you're good at and that you don't find too awkward. I've found it really good for inspiration, often the entire problem it suggests isn't perfect but there will be a move or two that gets you thinking and you can then refine, or set a similar style move that you might not have thought of yourself and end up with a couple of nice links.
Bradders:
Cheers for the Boulder Bot recommendations. Had a go on a problem set with it yesterday and enjoyed it a lot; used a few holds I've previously neglected and came up with some movement I wouldn't have set myself. Really good.
I like that it's not perfect at coming up with things; the creative element of setting your own problems is very important, but it's nice to have some help in thinking outside your normal style.
Only major gripe with it is that for some reason it rarely seems to put finishing holds at the top of the board :-\
MischaHY:
--- Quote from: Bradders on December 22, 2022, 08:04:38 am ---Cheers for the Boulder Bot recommendations. Had a go on a problem set with it yesterday and enjoyed it a lot; used a few holds I've previously neglected and came up with some movement I wouldn't have set myself. Really good.
I like that it's not perfect at coming up with things; the creative element of setting your own problems is very important, but it's nice to have some help in thinking outside your normal style.
Only major gripe with it is that for some reason it rarely seems to put finishing holds at the top of the board :-\
--- End quote ---
Yeah definitely a little tweaking required on most boulders but as you say I find it ace for encouraging different moves and possibilities. What I like about it is that it doesn't consider if a move or hold position is awkward, just the subjective rating of how good the hold is. This often results in me taking holds at angles that I wouldn't normally choose to use them which is a lot closer to how rock is.
If you want it to use the top holds more then adjust them to be rated as more positive/better. The bot will then choose them more often.
Bradders:
--- Quote from: MischaHY on December 22, 2022, 09:35:11 am ---What I like about it is that it doesn't consider if a move or hold position is awkward, just the subjective rating of how good the hold is. This often results in me taking holds at angles that I wouldn't normally choose to use them which is a lot closer to how rock is.
--- End quote ---
Yes the fact it doesn't know the angle of the holds is both a blessing and a curse.
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