[shark]

11.10-11 average 165.1lbs 

M.Eve. Foundry but it was the Lights Out Party. Went home but fingers still tired from yesterdays sling test. Experimented holding one arm shoulder shrugs. Military press and a few deadlifts.

T

W Tor. Blue skies but baltic. Just me there. Climbed like a sack of potatoes. Failed to do THFML. Best link start to going for large pocket off pinch

T Walk with Poppy round Birchen’s and Gardom’s. Noice

F. Stanage pm. Dusting of snow. Bit overcast but cleared to get a bit of winter sun. Moved well and soloed the Rusty Wall routes nicely but clouded over and turned bitter. Did Hargreaves with cold fingers and called it a day. Popped down to the Plantation car park to say hello to Fiend. Eve. Friends over. Drank a bit.

S. Lots of leaf clearing. No energy left for training at end. Eve. Rising Sun climber’s catch up with Rob B, Jon B, Mark H and John W.

S. Lots of snow clearing. No energy left for training at end

Let myself down this week. Good to reconnect with my inner climber at Stanage but otherwise fat and feeling unpsyched, and weak. Datca seems a long time ago. Hard to picture regaining top form.

[Dolly]

Come and do some grit stuff with me this week
We can rediscover your inner climber together

[Duma]

Chin up Shark, it's only been a week or so since you were smashing it in Turkey!

M - sleep off nights
T - work (horrible 24hr turnaround for a course), redpoint in eve, route doubles: 6b-7a, 6c-6c, 7a+-7b (failed high on the 7b). Then a quick go on a crimpy 7c. Didn't get far on the flash but did all the moves fine, will have another go next time as it's not too steep so can try hard without irritating my elbow.
W - work, TCA in eve, rehab routine but cut down the hangs and did some not-too-steep bouldering. Longing glances at the (hard looking!) new woody - will need a fully recovered elbow before this is on the menu though.
T - Elbow a bit tender after 2 days on. Mobility stuff. Run, 6k, hilly, muddy, lovely sunshine, slow, 33min incl a bit of walking. 2 min plank.
F - TCA, circuits x 6 increasing from 5+ ish to 7a ish, then some not-too-steep bouldering on whites (high 6's) for an hr or so. Some rehab stuff after. 2 min plank.
S - 2 min plank.
S - hungover all day. 2 min plank.

70 kg
2022 plank total 325 min

[SA Chris]

S. Lots of snow clearing. No energy left for training at end

Let myself down this week. Good to reconnect with my inner climber at Stanage but otherwise fat and feeling unpsyched, and weak. Datca seems a long time ago. Hard to picture regaining top form.

Good job clearing snow, other than off the cars I just leave it to melt.

Nowt wrong with letting it slide and just chilling for the next couple of weeks, then coming back fresh and full of psyche in the new year.

[User deactivated.]

Popped down to the Plantation car park to say hello to Fiend.

All that talk about honeypots and then getting caught turning up for a session on The Green Traverse 

[Fultonius]

79.5kg

M/T: Nil

Wednesday: Low motivation, just in a bad mood and that lead to arguing with the lass when we were meant to be having a fun session with her sis and bf who were visiting from Amsterdam...

Went up to do a bit of solitary FB. Bit of familiarising with pockets (for Spain trip at New year) then decided to test my one arm lattice rung ability. Managed -12.5kg on both sides, which is a 0.5kg improvement since last year but I'm also up about 2.5 kg in weight. Not been doing any FB except using it for progressive warm ups, so that's surprising and promising.

Also tested the 45s which I have been using in my warm up but using nestling. Managed a 2 x 5s hangs (no cheats) which is getting towards my pb from many years ago. That said, I can't even touch the 45s on my home beastmaker so I don't know how useful a benchmark it is!

Quite surprised considering I'm 1) Heavy (79.5kg) and 2. Mainly just been climbing this summer and autumn without much focused strength or FB stuff.

Friday: All oranges no rest (just walking between) (5 to 6A) (20 problems)

20 mins continuous on Autobelays, always hard to judge what level you're operating at, but generally mixing up 6a+ to 6c climbing, mostly in the 6b/+ range.

Aim to continue this up to Gandia trip at New year, then a break and followed by more strength power.
Been mixing it up with foot on repeaters for some more "quality" and will for this for next month.

Dips 8 x 3

Face pull presses with band 10 x 3

Wrist curls 8kg x 10 x 3

Sat:

FB progressive warm up then 50% repeaters (-27kg) 6 sets of 12 reps 7:3 as some form of "quality" PE.

Then went out to a DJ at subclub until 3.30am...  Sunday wasn't as bad as it might have been.

Been trying to follow a bit of a weight loss protocol for this upcoming trip, by reducing intake on rest days (aiming for about 200cal below maintenance) and upping by 200cal on exercise days. Not actually tracking numbers as that's too controlled for my liking. SO far it's having no effect other than making my grumpy. 

[shark]

Good job clearing snow, other than off the cars I just leave it to melt.

Yeah - don’t do it at home but had to clear the car park and pathways at an office property I own ready for Monday morning.

Nowt wrong with letting it slide and just chilling for the next couple of weeks, then coming back fresh and full of psyche in the new year.

Certainly benefited from time off in the past and of course Sharkathontm is just around the corner 

[SA Chris]

Fair enough. I think it's the old liftie still in me, but if there's enough I find shovelling snow deeply satisfying.

I'm going full sharka this year, doing dry Jan as well, as usual ski trip is not 'til early Feb.

[Stabbsy]

Aim to continue this up to Gandia trip at New year, then a break and followed by more strength power.
Been mixing it up with foot on repeaters for some more "quality" and will for this for next month.

Had you seen this on the other channel?

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/crag_access/ban_on_gandia_crag-753788

Doesn't sound like things will sort themselves out in the short term. I'm guessing Bovedon and Bove2 are still okay, but there's less variety there, particularly in the lower grades. Loads of other crags around, but more of a drive.

[duncan]

M - Shoulder conditioning: side planks, dumbell rows, etc. Legs (Frog squat, single leg squat etc.). Walked 10km.
T - Fingerboard pick-ups: 18mm edge, up to 21kg x 10s (front two, drag and crimp, both hands).
W - 13km walk.
T - 7km walk.
F -  Fingerboard pick-ups: 18mm edge, up to 22kg x 10s (front two, drag and crimp, both hands). Shoulder conditioning. 9km walk.
S - Legs conditioning. 9km walk.
S - Fingerboard pick-ups: 18mm edge, up to 23kg x 10s (front two, drag and crimp, both hands). 9km walk.

Lots of walking, some wrist exercises, a little conditioning, and targeted finger strength. Might try some climbing again this week and see how the wrist feels.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - weights.
Tue - weights, ab wheel.
Wed - tired from lack of sleep. Lattice edge tests front2 half crimp + 15kg. 1 cm edge back3 + 15 kg. Weights, EMOM: clean 3x6 64 kg; snatch pulls 5x6 60 kg; bentover row 5x6 60 kg; goblet squat 5x6; pull ups 5x6.
Thu - BM tests: front2 small edge drag, mid2 small pockets drag, back2 medium pockets half crimp, front2 small edge full crimp (avoid like plague, never again). Board climbing.
Fri - tired from lack of sleep. TBDL from blocks 5x10 120 kg. Farmer's static holds 120 kg 4'. Lower back.
Sat - AM as usual. PM boxing bag.
Sun - boxing bag.

[mr chaz]

Missed a few weeks - been bombarded lately with various colds and viruses since the lad started nursery.

Tuesday - Board session
Thursday  - Board session

Feel like I'm well and truly in the doldrums - cold, damp, lonely board sessions with little prospect of getting out on rock, about to hit Xmas with the inevitable overeating and drinking, relentless nursery illnesses...  yet I can still summon the psyche for boning the shit out of some hard wood at 10pm on a Tuesday night in my shed in minus 3 temps, casting my mind to the prospects of spring -  allez

[Fultonius]

Aim to continue this up to Gandia trip at New year, then a break and followed by more strength power.
Been mixing it up with foot on repeaters for some more "quality" and will for this for next month.

Had you seen this on the other channel?

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/crag_access/ban_on_gandia_crag-753788

Doesn't sound like things will sort themselves out in the short term. I'm guessing Bovedon and Bove2 are still okay, but there's less variety there, particularly in the lower grades. Loads of other crags around, but more of a drive.

 
 
No, I hadn't - thanks for the headsup!  We can still change our Airbnb. Other than Sella, any other good crags with plenty mid 6 to high 7s? 

[James Malloch]

Aim to continue this up to Gandia trip at New year, then a break and followed by more strength power.
Been mixing it up with foot on repeaters for some more "quality" and will for this for next month.

Had you seen this on the other channel?

https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/crag_access/ban_on_gandia_crag-753788

Doesn't sound like things will sort themselves out in the short term. I'm guessing Bovedon and Bove2 are still okay, but there's less variety there, particularly in the lower grades. Loads of other crags around, but more of a drive.

 
 
No, I hadn't - thanks for the headsup!  We can still change our Airbnb. Other than Sella, any other good crags with plenty mid 6 to high 7s?

I guess you’re flying into Alicante? Chulilla is a 2.5 hour drive and has loads to go at!

[Coops_13]

M: Boulder Canyon. Went to try Toil and Blood, a hard slappy compression V8. Poor choice given I already had a hole in my R hand. Worked the moves and promptly reopend hole then tore two new holes in my palm trying duff beta. Will have to come back…

T: G1. 20mm hangs HC for first time since pinky rupture 6.5 weeks ago. Pinky still open when HC so felt good. Worked up to +40lb 7s *4sets - psyched! Also did Kilter for first time (not just circuits) and managed 6 V4s at 45deg. Slowly gaining confidence and doing more dynamic moves

W: G1. Chest and legs. Bench press 175lb X3 *3. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *5. Cable flys 25lb X2 X5 *3, cable fly pulls 20lb X2 X5 *3. RDLs 165lb X5 *5. Bicep curls 40lb X6 *3. Shoulder press 40lb X6 *3.

T: Clear Creek Canyon. Went to a block my ate had recently developed. Bailed on the straight up - v fingery. Found some new beta for and sent Reaper V5 for the third ascent. Very good boulder, climbs so much better than it looks. Played around on some other moves on the other lines before finishing


S: Flatirons. Hiked in to the Mallory Cave area. Warmed up on Edging Edgio V8, one of the best of its grade in the Front Range. Took some time to trust the heel with dodgy knee and trust holds with dodgy pinky but fired it off with a gnarly swing. Moved on to Dulcinea V7, a quality high line with great movement. Sent that fairly quickly with a great heart-in-mouth moment on the dirty top. Went to Rennak's Delight V8, a lowball frustrating boulder with really good moves. Almost sacked it due to finger but nice to send. Finished the day doing a V6 called Mini Victory. Stonker of a day, psyched.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Chin up Simon - sounds like good cross training! Hit me up when you wanna do some AeroCap....

Lettuce Club:

M: Rest
T: Density Hangs, AeroCap 4x4 up to F6b, Stabilizer Conditioning
W: Boulder Tripples up to 6B+, Weighted Pullups
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Continuity 5x3 around F6a+
S: Boulder pyramids: Mostly in the V5-7 range, leg raises... Destroyed!

Missed out some conditioning work - must try harder 

[Aussiegav]

Very late entry.
Been off the boil for a while. Had a death in the family (expected) on the Monday.
The last 12 weeks have been a massive roller coaster of emotions and events which have subsequently had an impact. This the cycle of life, hoping things will begin to rise back up as we enter the new year. Ebbs & flows.

Tuesday. Fingerboard at home 95% hangs

Wednesday. Nothing

Thursday 95% hangs at home again

Friday nothing

Saturday. Low psych & energy. Went to the depot in Sheffield. Did 10 problems as warm up then 3 sets of double laps on the 6a yellow circuit.

Sunday. Peloton ride and stretching.

[cheque]

Sorry to hear that Gav.

[Fiend]

Best wishes Gav. You're managing to do some exercising so that's something.