I wouldn't mind being in Siurana right now... T - Tested individual finger strength by doing pick-ups, one finger at a time. Middle the strongest, index fingers ~75% the strength of the middle, ring fingers are just over 50% of middle’s strength, little finger just under 50%. Little difference between sides, most fingers within 5% of each other, except the L index finger which was more markedly (~15%) weaker than R.
I feel strongest on two-finger pockets with my middle two but perhaps that's because they are the two most similar in length.
T - Tested individual finger strength by doing pick-ups, one finger at a time. Middle the strongest, index fingers ~75% the strength of the middle, ring fingers are just over 50% of middle’s strength, little finger just under 50%. Little difference between sides, most fingers within 5% of each other, except the L index finger which was more markedly (~15%) weaker than R.
Are you left handed?
except for play the guitar and play snooker - left-handed for those
would play guitar (not that i can) right handed
I think there is a strength versus dexterity issue thing with me (and I've observed it in other "ambi-useless" people). If (and God save us all from this prospect!) I ever had to perform surgery, I would wield the scalpel with my left hand.
Interesting stats on the fingers. How did you measure them? And are there any average figures on which to compare yourself to?
Duncan's finger test originated out of a conversation we had re the Nugget interview with Dan V (https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=nugget+dan+varian&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8) re identifying lazy fingers in open / crimped positions and possible significant gains by (re)activating them. Probably worth discussing in more detail in its own thread!
Looked in my training diary from 2020 (good job me of keeping one, should start again).All half crimp or 90 deg at second phalange, no hyperextension of first, including pinky, all compared to middle left finger.Middle right: 100%Ring left: 90%, ring right: 77%Index left: 72%, index right: 70%Pinky left & right: 72% (note: in drag my pinky was a lot stronger than index)I know that my left hand is significantly stronger than the right, and on this single instance of measuring it was down just to the left ring finger which was a lot stronger than the right.
Ally Smith posted the following on his IG story (with permission) using the sling test:Percentages for each finger are relative to the total for that hand. More information on the sling test and the spreadsheet Ally used in Yossarian's link or here.
Conversely I believe my pinky is stronger than my index (I've not felt the need to check that's still the case, but it used to be). I think it's just how your hand happens to be put together and what feels more tweaky. Does no-one else feel like your score on monos, especially on "weird" fingers (i.e. not middle), and doubly-especially on half-crimp are mostly going to be determined by how tweaky you feel on each finger rather than anything else? I don't think I could get very close to pushing hard on any individual finger, even middle finger open hand monos, without a month or more of gradually breaking in that grip type. For something like ring finger half-crimp or crimp it would purely be a test of tweakyness surely?
If Ally is doing that off his pinky in HC as Dan described then he should be burning Aidan off!
I can't comprehend how the pinky finger could be anywhere near as strong as the index finger. Perhaps this is telling that I have some gains to make! I'll give it a go next week.
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on November 25, 2022, 11:53:01 amI can't comprehend how the pinky finger could be anywhere near as strong as the index finger. Perhaps this is telling that I have some gains to make! I'll give it a go next week. Didn't know what I was talking about.Results are in, tested with a pickup fingerboard, approx 22mm edge (right hand was almost exactly the same except for a stronger pinky in drag):https://adobe.ly/3AO8qCOI'm not sure what normal is supposed to look like, but I think my index fingers are very weak and my ring fingers are overly strong? If this is the case, I will start doing weekly index finger lifts.
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on November 27, 2022, 04:06:43 pmQuote from: Liamhutch89 on November 25, 2022, 11:53:01 amI can't comprehend how the pinky finger could be anywhere near as strong as the index finger. Perhaps this is telling that I have some gains to make! I'll give it a go next week. Didn't know what I was talking about.Results are in, tested with a pickup fingerboard, approx 22mm edge (right hand was almost exactly the same except for a stronger pinky in drag):https://adobe.ly/3AO8qCOI'm not sure what normal is supposed to look like, but I think my index fingers are very weak and my ring fingers are overly strong? If this is the case, I will start doing weekly index finger lifts.Dan suggested he doesn't think single finger lifts are very useful for actually training because it doesn't relate to the common grip type closely enough so he recommended training pairs for better transfer.
Would be great if someone just put this into a google form with the results being public. Only other questions to ask would be something along the lines of max grade ever, max grade in last 12 months, and maybe an appraisal of current form out of 10 (to give a subjective way of scoring results). Also makes it easier to share more widely and aggregate 100+ results very quickly. But please make the results public.
Dan suggested he doesn't think single finger lifts are very useful for actually training because it doesn't relate to the common grip type closely enough so he recommended training pairs for better transfer.
Did somebody say data collection?Form here https://forms.gle/ogFNb1EVzPSJineq5Results here https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/13hPZHGEFfzWE_AEiBtMMPoELnyY20jE4BE_eHH1wzlg/edit?usp=sharing