Will - Good effort at Trowbarrow. Sounds like you're on good form.
Any recommendations for shoulder strength dependent problems in the 7C-8A range to keep me entertained before I aim to peak over Christmas?
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on November 07, 2022, 09:47:36 amWill - Good effort at Trowbarrow. Sounds like you're on good form.Do not be fooled. I had never tried it in its old state but a hold has broken on Pit Problem leaving a decent flat crimp in the place of a sidepull. It felt significantly easier than Ned's, though on Ned's I couldn't seem to get my heel/toe onto the first LH hold so ended up having to hold a huge swing on the far left glued crimp which felt absolutely desperate.
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on November 07, 2022, 09:47:36 amAny recommendations for shoulder strength dependent problems in the 7C-8A range to keep me entertained before I aim to peak over Christmas? Off the top of my head:Press kneeling/sitting starts at Rubicon? (More lat than shoulder, but kinda similar; I remember thinking that it felt like someone was punching my left lat repeatedly while moving my body from the position I would catch the LH in to the position I would need to be in to them move)Palmed and dangerous at Froggatt? (Only played for 5 min so not really sure how much it's shoulder vs tricep vs wrist strength)
Shoulders are feeing beastly though!
I just watched a video of The Press and, relatively, that is my strongest position. Looks good as a potentially flattering problem to try whilst low on psych! Does it seep? I've heard the holds can be quite savage on skin at Rubicon.
On a separate note, having read that you've enjoyed 3D roof climbing in the past, I think you might enjoy Jelly of the Beast at Odin's Cave that climbs right-to-left all the way across the roof/prow at the entrance.
Pit Problem is definitely easier now. Its a longer move but from a crimp rather than a sidepull so making the distance is easier. Since it was 7B+ before I think its probably still 7B ish now, but basic and will depend how hard you find that individual move. I thought it was pretty hard still, took an hour or so to sort it out. By contrast I found Ned's straightforward; grades eh?!
Monday - assessment. Max hangs for 5 seconds on the 20mm (52.5kgs) and 2-rep pullup max (40kgs). Currently weigh at around 75kgs. Did some climbing indoors. Always good to know that you're strong even if you're shit.
Duncan - Basing your training plan on relatively poor scores is never a bad thing. It gives you a better run up.
Quote from: Liamhutch89 on November 07, 2022, 09:47:36 amShoulders are feeing beastly though! Liam - do you do any specific shoulder / press training beyond those sorts of moves on your board?I don’t think my shoulders are necessarily weak, but having recently injured myself doing a powerful press on my RH shoulder I’m interested in anything I can do to prevent that sort of thing from reoccurring.
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on November 07, 2022, 10:40:52 amPit Problem is definitely easier now. Its a longer move but from a crimp rather than a sidepull so making the distance is easier. Since it was 7B+ before I think its probably still 7B ish now, but basic and will depend how hard you find that individual move. I thought it was pretty hard still, took an hour or so to sort it out. By contrast I found Ned's straightforward; grades eh?!That's interesting, if it's the sidepull I'm thinking of I would never have thought it might break. How big is the edge now? I need to go back to Trowbarrow. Love it there but it's been a long time since I last went.
Conversely I thought that the sit (which I didn't do) felt like a trivial addition! I'm pretty sure I was starting from the furthest hold on the left.
Quote from: Bradders on November 07, 2022, 11:49:21 amQuote from: spidermonkey09 on November 07, 2022, 10:40:52 amPit Problem is definitely easier now. Its a longer move but from a crimp rather than a sidepull so making the distance is easier. Since it was 7B+ before I think its probably still 7B ish now, but basic and will depend how hard you find that individual move. I thought it was pretty hard still, took an hour or so to sort it out. By contrast I found Ned's straightforward; grades eh?!That's interesting, if it's the sidepull I'm thinking of I would never have thought it might break. How big is the edge now? I need to go back to Trowbarrow. Love it there but it's been a long time since I last went.Its the right hand crimpy sidepull you pulled on with when doing Pit Problem from a stand. Based on where the water was running yesterday I think water must have been getting down the back of it. The edge its left behind is reasonably big, maybe 12mm, but quite specific in how you hold it and slopes the wrong way. Its obviously easy to get your fingers on it correctly when stood on the ground (!), much harder when you're climbing into it from the sit. I had a brief go at the sit yesterday and think that will be worth 7B+ now, having probably been 7C before, but only if started matched on the lowest edge. Starting with crossed hands like I've seen a few videos do on the old version (sorry Yetix ) misses the hardest move and will add little to nothing to the stand as it is now I don't think.
but focus on general strength for gastons, which I've thought about quite a lot.