[JamieG]

Does anyone have a topo for the Rankin boulder? Thought I might head out there this afternoon. Can’t quite piece together the information I can find online. The link to the blog on ukc seems to only have a blank page now. There is a photo with numbered lines on ukc. But I don’t which number is which problem. Cheers for any help. Jamie

[andy_e]

Hmm, I thought there was info here: https://scottishbloc.com/2022/02/17/dumfries-galloway-bouldering-update/ but it would appear not very much. Hopefully Stewart will spot this thread before you set off!

Oh yes and Ted went recently and said it was a nightmare to get to because of the clearfell/new growth, "like getting to Farr but ten times worse"

[JamieG]

Cheers Andy. Hmmm that doesn’t sound fun. I just assumed the thirlstane wouldn’t have dried out. It’s very clear today but there is no wind. I guess it stays damp in the cave.

[andy_e]

No idea sorry, I've never climbed in that part of the world!

[SA Chris]

Isn't it the "Galloway Bloc" on pg 26 of Boulder Scotland, 3rd edition? You got your copy nearby?

[JamieG]

I’m afraid I don’t have the latest Scottish bouldering guide. Only an older edition.

[SA Chris]

Check your messages

[JamieG]

Thanks Chris. Brilliant.

[SA Chris]

No prob, good luck.

[Yossarian]

This is a bit London Climber, but I'm quite disappointed that this isn't about a new bouldering guide designed by Rankin...

[SA Chris]

That pic is everything Tim Rankin isn't. Unless those studs were placed with a Hilti.

[Stewart]

Probably too late for Jamie but I created a path from the top road that is far easier than hacking through the quickly regrowing forest as per previous guides.

[Stewart]

Unfortunately i didn't get to tell Ted about this vid either so he went the old way which is a nightmare.  I've sent an update to the approach to ukc page including the vid.  I plan to get back there once it gets a bit cooler so I'll do some path maintenance.  Jamie,  hopefully you make it out alive..

[Stewart]

Noticed there was no moderator on ukc so i've updated myself and added descriptions matching the photo topo. Also took the opportunity to adjust some grades. Retroclaim from 7A+ to 7A and Bohemian Rhapsody from 7B to 7B+ (it's still fucking desperate for that) and adjusted some 6's. Hope anyone that's tried them agrees :-)

[SA Chris]

Good work, that looks like prime tick country in there.

[Stewart]

Ticks are only really active in late spring, summer and you don't want to be anywhere near this boulder in  warm conditions!

[GazM]

I did Retroclaim on a flying visit many moons ago and given that I got up it in a session thought it couldn't be 7A+.
Think I posted on hear about it at the time to check if I'd actually climbed the right thing.

[Fiend]

I did Retroclaim on a flying visit many moons ago and given that I got up it in a session thought it couldn't be 7A+.
Don't think I posted on here about it at the time because I assumed most grades are bollox.

[JamieG]

Cheers everyone for the info. Ended up bailing on the Rankin boulder. Was chucking it down when I got to the parking. Went to Garheugh Port and managed to squeeze a mini session trying the sit of bowfinger. What a great problem. Done the stand before and the sit adds some proper burl to the technical finish. Unfortunately rain stopped play but I got a decent climb in. I come up most autumns for a few days so maybe next year I’ll make it to the Rankin. 👍

[Stewart]

Was going to say Garheugh would have been a better bet today I think.  Give me a shout next year if you need a spot 

[JamieG]

Cheers Stewart. I’ll let you know when I’m up next year. The in-laws come every year in autumn and we usually join them for a few days. Got to head back to Manchester tomorrow.