I just had the same dilemma, albeit on a power endurance boulder, not a route.I'd had some good redpoint attempts over the last couple of weeks, but was failing near the end due to power fade. Since i'm in a peak phase and haven't done any specific power endurance work for almost 6 weeks, I was concerned that my power endurance was going down. Luckily I have a coach and was advised not to add any power endurance sessions and instead focus on reducing fatigue and peaking for redpoint attempts. I concentrated on high intensity low volume, nailed my sleep, diet, skin, etc and got it done yesterday. YMMV.
If I understand you right, you reckon if you do a few more moves you're in? Sounds like you're close to me and just need to keep turning up. If I had a few indoor sessions before next getting on a power endurance project in a weeks time I would probably do a session of Anderson hangs/ whatever repeaters you might normally do and a wall session doing board problems at about 80% of max, but quit before I got tired. If I personally did nothing for a week before getting on something power endurancey I would feel crap but you might be different. If it wasn't raining I would just say keep turning up and don't bother training at all but since you'll likely be slightly delayed by the weather might as well do something applicable without knackering yourself. Give yourself 2 or 3 rest days between the second indoor session and the next RP session.All the above caveated with the proviso that I've never done any training phases; my training is mostly vibes based!
When you say the third bolt, do you mean the 4th? The 3rd doesn't *feel* too strenuous to clip, and I used to clip it after making the move to the slopey rail where I road-runner my feet up - I had considered just making the next move (easy enough) and clipping the 4th. I will also ponder that...
That's a suitable spelling of insightful, hah!!The question is - was it deliberate?
Man I need to sort the steadily spreading bald patch! ÖI hate it every time I see myself from the back.
It's steeper than it looks from those front-on videos
it's basically an act of pushing and pressing in all the correct directions to keep your feet on tiny footholds and hands on things that slope all the wrong way (sounds shit, but it's really good when it all comes together).
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