[Fiend]

Saw a couple of potential things recently, don't know if they've been done, any takers:

Zaff Scotch thing Left Hand - start for the normal problem but somehow get right hand in small good pocket on lip, use that to rock over leftwards with foot in jug via pebbles and a gash pocket, then somehow gain the right lip and finish?

(On the same subject, has the obvious line of two pockets into Velvet Crab been done?)

Line right of Blind Date - small undercling at the back, use the lip somehow, then gain pebbles, foot in BD starting hold and poinkle to area of breaks and stuff above?


P.S. These are at Burbage North in the Peak District, BTW.

[dave]

Line right of Blind Date - small undercling at the back, use the lip somehow, then gain pebbles, foot in BD starting hold and poinkle to area of breaks and stuff above?

delete the word "line" adn you're probably be onto something! I bet it wouldn't be that far off how shorties have to do blind date anyway!

[Jim]

met someone there once who was trying it and thought it was blind date

[dave k]

met someone there once who was trying it and thought it was blind date

Isn't that just a harder version of blind date. I am sure it is in the guide book as a low start? Then again I expect I am wrong. I was probably that person trying it that way. I certainly can't reach the sloper from standing start and I am 5.10

[dave]

theres nothing right of blind date in the guide, low or not.

i would have thought at 5'10 you aughta be able to reach the sloper if you get your feet right.

[cofe]

the line right of blind date is just about worthy enough when you consider some of the other stuff squeezed on there. are you trying to reach the sloper from the floor? its well within reach from pulling on

pockets are impressive R of velvet clowns pocket crab but undone i think

[Bonjoy]

Aye, the pockets thing is well tried but never climbed.

[Jim]

met someone there once who was trying it and thought it was blind date

Isn't that just a harder version of blind date. I am sure it is in the guide book as a low start? Then again I expect I am wrong. I was probably that person trying it that way. I certainly can't reach the sloper from standing start and I am 5.10

If you can lok off on your right arm then you should be able to reach the sloper no probs with feet in right place. The way I was on about was climbing blind date without the sloper and using the pebbles straight above the starting hold to get into the holds on the back of the first roof

[Graeme]

I can barely even manage the first move of blind date    But on the plus side it does feel like it would go :D

[Ru]

The way I was on about was climbing blind date without the sloper and using the pebbles straight above the starting hold to get into the holds on the back of the first roof

That's how I always used to do it - left on the good hold on the lip, right to flat pebble higher, left to small flat pebble then rock up. But then I split a tip on the left hand pebble and vowed never to touch it again, so I now use the sloper again.

[Nigel]

Possibly Huffy will come to fill us in properly as I think he did this too, but The Mule reckoned BD was easier without the sloper - just stick your heel on the 'toe' hold, and lock it out off the crimp straight to the break. Apparently!

Of course you probably need to be quite strong on the crimp to do this, bear in mind that these naughty boys can one-arm it  :shock:

[a dense loner]

this isn't blind date, you people are mad. it's an eliminate problem that is named and graded for using specific holds in specific ways. this is the anal part of climbing which makes it so much better. this is like saying you have done the hard variations on the green traverse, but you haven't used the smaller holds of the green traverse. i can see me having to be present at some peoples ascents to make it legal