[Bradders]

I like your single violently orange hold, alone in a sea of brown and black 

[Stuart Anderson]

Just a shout out to everyone in this thread for all the info on board building/hold recommendations/setting etc.

Brilliant, looks like I could probably square this away for my back garden.

I'm not completely inept at DIY but quick question, how have you got the angle braced between wall and kick board? Those metal things *insert technical name*?

Thanks

[tomtom]

Stuart - not sure exactly what you are asking - but kickboarfs don’t have to be that strong. Mine is a bit of old chipboard (cupboard door from a skip nearby) reasonably randomly screwed into the other bits of wood around it. Works fine.

[Stuart Anderson]

Stuart - not sure exactly what you are asking - but kickboarfs don’t have to be that strong. Mine is a bit of old chipboard (cupboard door from a skip nearby) reasonably randomly screwed into the other bits of wood around it. Works fine.

Cheers. Quick Google search delivered angle bracket as the name of the things I meant.

Just need to convince the kids that I have to repurpose their wood frame swings (DIY & overbuilt) for a wall.

[tomtom]

Stuart - not sure exactly what you are asking - but kickboarfs don’t have to be that strong. Mine is a bit of old chipboard (cupboard door from a skip nearby) reasonably randomly screwed into the other bits of wood around it. Works fine.

Cheers. Quick Google search delivered angle bracket as the name of the things I meant.

Just need to convince the kids that I have to repurpose their wood frame swings (DIY & overbuilt) for a wall.

Good idea - I looked at using an off the shelf wood framed swing / or in particular the steel bracelets to bolt the timbers together at the top of the a frame / as a quick woody support fix.

In the end I could bolt mine to existing beams.

[JamieG]

Stuart - not sure exactly what you are asking - but kickboarfs don’t have to be that strong. Mine is a bit of old chipboard (cupboard door from a skip nearby) reasonably randomly screwed into the other bits of wood around it. Works fine.

The only caveat I would add to this is if you are going to build a less steep board and be using undercuts quite a bit. Then the kickboard takes quite a lot of force. More than body weight since you are pulling down into your feet. Mine creaks a bit when using undercuts, so it is probably worth making pretty robust. Maybe less of an issue on steeper boards or if not using undercuts a lot.

[csl]

I like your single violently orange hold, alone in a sea of brown and black 

I ordered a bunch of black holds from Holdz and they put in the bright orange jug as a freebie, really messed with my colour scheme!

Just a shout out to everyone in this thread for all the info on board building/hold recommendations/setting etc.

Brilliant, looks like I could probably square this away for my back garden.

I'm not completely inept at DIY but quick question, how have you got the angle braced between wall and kick board? Those metal things *insert technical name*?

Thanks

I've got the offcuts from where I cut the joists in there - so just a triangle of 2x4 every 40cm or so screwed into the deck and then the kickboard screws into them.

[Stuart Anderson]

I've got the offcuts from where I cut the joists in there - so just a triangle of 2x4 every 40cm or so screwed into the deck and then the kickboard screws into them.

Offcuts - that's a canny idea. Thanks

[M1V0]

Not totally related to building a woodie, but more keeping it in good nick. Mine is is in a Victorian style brick shed at the bottom of the garden and suffers horribly from condensation in the current weather, so much so the oak holds (shout out to Rick Ginns) are constantly wet. How do people combat condensated holds? Fan? Heater? Change of climate?

[Paul B]

I can't remember if it was on here or elsewhere but I discussed this with someone recently and open grained wooden holds (Oak?) were meant to be worse than others. Certainly on my board, I've got one hold that I suspect is Oak and it's worse than the others and you can clearly see darkness in the grain when the humidity is high. Sorry, that doesn't really help.

[sxrxg]

I have a a bag of cat litter stashed in the garage to work as a dehumidifier, a fan and a fan heater that go on whenever I use the board. Also find it helps to brush all the holds on a problem with a bit of chalk in this weather. Problems often feel crap on the first couple of goes and then the chalk seems to bed in and the holds feel ok from then on. I would also say the strongholds oak seems worse in the humidity than whatever the hardwood holds are made from which is possibly sapele wood.

[RobK]

Not totally related to building a woodie, but more keeping it in good nick. Mine is is in a Victorian style brick shed at the bottom of the garden and suffers horribly from condensation in the current weather, so much so the oak holds (shout out to Rick Ginns) are constantly wet. How do people combat condensated holds? Fan? Heater? Change of climate?

My board is in a cold damp garage and I was having some condensation issues with the recent cold weather. I pop a heater under the board for half an hour before a session which sorts things out nicely. As others have said, I have a few oak holds on the board and these tend to fare far worse than the others and can still be a little slippy even after the heating.

[M1V0]

I can't remember if it was on here or elsewhere but I discussed this with someone recently and open grained wooden holds

I recall reading the same comments, so it must have been on here. Unfortunately for me, half my board is oak!

I have a a bag of cat litter stashed in the garage to work as a dehumidifier, a fan and a fan heater that go on whenever I use the board. Also find it helps to brush all the holds on a problem with a bit of chalk in this weather. Problems often feel crap on the first couple of goes and then the chalk seems to bed in and the holds feel ok from then on.

My board is in a cold damp garage and I was having some condensation issues with the recent cold weather. I pop a heater under the board for half an hour before a session which sorts things out nicely.

Brilliant, I'll look into sourcing a small heater from somewhere.

[tomtom]

On the postive side - you've all got great excuses for having a crap session / sacking it off for netflix and a mount of crisps etc... :D

[James Malloch]

I'm sure I've asked this, but can't find it anywhere...

We got a house in December and I'm looking to put a board in somewhere. The attic is big and unused (though relatively low ceilings) so I got a quote to have the floor fully boarded today. The guy (from fairly big but reputable company) who gave the quote said that it should be okay for small impacts like this but they obviously couldn't give any guarantees. It would probably only get used for 2/3 sessions a week so not loads of use.

Board would be approx 2m high so falling height would be approx 1m onto a mat (I'm 70kg). They could either add one additional set of floor joists (2" x 4" beams) or two sets (i.e. raise the floor twice for extra strength).

Obviously it wouldn't be intended to have these forces generated on it, but the guy seemed to think it would be fine, especially if it had two sets of joists added.

I wondered if anyone could add any thoughts before we make a decision? The bedroom walls on the floor below are all stud ones and it's a 1910 Victorian terrace.

[SA Chris]

If it's being floored out with standard attic floorboards, get it done anyway, makes the space so much more useable. however, in the landing zone where you are putting your board I'd put down extra support to spread the impact load, even if it's just a thin sheet of ply.

[tomtom]

I bet its fine.... Maybe make sure you use an alright mat though to spread the load a bit...

Edit - Chris idea is good - a bit ply accross the landing zone...

Early warning would be a ceiling plaster crack below?

[James Malloch]

It's already partially done (about 1/3) so there's enough for storage but doesn't extend far enough for a board to go anywhere (and probably not strong enough either).

Would be about £1k to get it fully done which seemed a decent price to get it done right into the rafters. Though there would be ample storage at the moment if we weren't putting a board in.

[SA Chris]

Before flooring the rest, is it will insulated underneath? Make sure it's best available before flooring goes down, hard to do once the floor is in. Unless the room is enormous, or awkwardly shaped, it's not a hard job to do if you have easy access. I did ours over a few evenings in our last house, and did a mate's quite quickly. Worst part was doing it over summer, was roasting up there.  A decent jigsaw really helps.

[Bradders]

Not totally related to building a woodie, but more keeping it in good nick. Mine is is in a Victorian style brick shed at the bottom of the garden and suffers horribly from condensation in the current weather, so much so the oak holds (shout out to Rick Ginns) are constantly wet. How do people combat condensated holds? Fan? Heater? Change of climate?

My board is in a cold damp garage and I was having some condensation issues with the recent cold weather. I pop a heater under the board for half an hour before a session which sorts things out nicely. As others have said, I have a few oak holds on the board and these tend to fare far worse than the others and can still be a little slippy even after the heating.

Yeah this was covered a few pages back, and this works for me. Just a simple cheapo space heater for half an hour clears it right out.

And as others have said, closed grain hardwoods are much more resistant (tulip, sapele, cherry, walnut, ash, beech, etc.). In fact the ones I have in those other wood types are so much better that I just avoid oak holds like the plague now.

[Fultonius]

Before flooring the rest, is it will insulated underneath? Make sure it's best available before flooring goes down, hard to do once the floor is in. Unless the room is enormous, or awkwardly shaped, it's not a hard job to do if you have easy access. I did ours over a few evenings in our last house, and did a mate's quite quickly. Worst part was doing it over summer, was roasting up there.  A decent jigsaw really helps.

Is it better to insulate the floor, or the between the rafters?  Would have thought for comfort in the winter, it would be nicer if it was up by the rafters? E.G.:  https://energysavingtrust.org.uk/advice/roof-and-loft-insulation/#:~:text=An%20alternative%20way%20to%20insulate,insulation%20sprayed%20between%20the%20rafters.

[M1V0]

My board is in a cold damp garage and I was having some condensation issues with the recent cold weather. I pop a heater under the board for half an hour before a session which sorts things out nicely. As others have said, I have a few oak holds on the board and these tend to fare far worse than the others and can still be a little slippy even after the heating.

Yeah this was covered a few pages back, and this works for me. Just a simple cheapo space heater for half an hour clears it right out.

And as others have said, closed grain hardwoods are much more resistant (tulip, sapele, cherry, walnut, ash, beech, etc.). In fact the ones I have in those other wood types are so much better that I just avoid oak holds like the plague now.

Thanks! I had a heater running for a couple of hours earlier to rid it of moisture, still needs maybe a few hours more tomorrow but it has certainly helped the holds feel more useable! It certainly doesn't help that the shed roof leaks too.

I absolutely love the oak holds, both for their practicality as holds and aesthetically, so I am happy to run a heater in order to use them more often and wait for the better weather when I can open both shed doors and let a good through wind take effect.

That being said, if you want rid of your holds, I will happily take them off your hands!

[Paul B]

I wondered if anyone could add any thoughts before we make a decision? The bedroom walls on the floor below are all stud ones and it's a 1910 Victorian terrace.

Some quick maths if you consider 1No. 100 x 50mm C24 joist as 100% (in terms of bending capacity) putting 2No. side by side, you can get twice as much bending capacity (so 200%) putting 2No. on top (or more realistically buying a bigger section) so 200 x 50mm you're at 400%.

There are two types of failure to consider SLS (nobody likes walking into a building and seeing something structural sagging all over the place, plus doors and stuff become a bit of a pain) and ULS, the first your plaster cracks and falls off, the second you actually have a problem.

I had a board on the first floor of a 1890s property which had lath and plaster ceilings below. That said, there's no way in hell I'll be making that decision for you on an online forum 

[SA Chris]

Before flooring the rest, is it will insulated underneath? Make sure it's best available before flooring goes down, hard to do once the floor is in. Unless the room is enormous, or awkwardly shaped, it's not a hard job to do if you have easy access. I did ours over a few evenings in our last house, and did a mate's quite quickly. Worst part was doing it over summer, was roasting up there.  A decent jigsaw really helps.

Is it better to insulate the floor, or the between the rafters?  Would have thought for comfort in the winter, it would be nicer if it was up by the rafters? E.G.:  https://energysavingtrust.org.uk/advice/roof-and-loft-insulation/#:~:text=An%20alternative%20way%20to%20insulate,insulation%20sprayed%20between%20the%20rafters.

Given that I assume it will only get used occasionally, it's easier and much cheaper to insulate between rafters and you won't have a (presumably) large loft space to keep warm.

[Stu Littlefair]

I’m after advice for something a little bit different. I’ve no room for a woody but I want to make a freestanding kick board to put underneath my FB. It’ll make FB aerocap a bit more interesting than standing on a chair.

The catch is that it needs to fold flat for storage. My best idea is a bit like this:



With hinges holding on the 2x4s and ropes cinching it closed. Looks flexible tho. Does anyone have a better cheap solution?