Hi Chris, Unfortunately, yes. The woodie is in our basement room, which is tanked to avoid damp. So i couldn't fix anything to the walls without compromising the tanking material and it needed to be a free standing structure. I would also have made it wider (and steeper - its about 25 deg)
Hi Chris, Unfortunately, yes. The woodie is in our basement room, which is tanked to avoid damp. So i couldn't fix anything to the walls without compromising the tanking material and it needed to be a free standing structure. I would also have made it wider (and steeper - its about 25 deg) but we also use the room as a TV/gaming room, so this was the space I had available to squeeze it into. Its a bit wider than the photo makes it look and the chimney breast is less in the way as well but it will have to be a relatively narrow setting. Going to stick to liquid chalk too since it seems much less dusty. Wife is most excited about the potential to store my climbing 'crap' behind the wall.
But maybe not quite as good as regular chalk. I guess it just makes the problems harder.
Quote from: JamieG on May 11, 2020, 12:44:59 pmBut maybe not quite as good as regular chalk. I guess it just makes the problems harder.Just to channel our lord and saviour, Dave McLeod, remember that not chalking up properly is one ingredient in the how-to-get-injured recipe. Fingers sliding and firing off the holds is not good.I like the board and I like the specificity of the Dab Simulator on the left. Good for practicing controlling those cuts on dabby problems. Good thinking
I read through this entire thread back at start of lock down in prep for my board and consensus I took was:- if your board is 25 degrees overhang or less, don't bother with a kicker- if it is, keep it small (I.e. 6" or so) and make the feet really bad, thus avoiding the temptation to get really stretched out on a good vertical foothold, making the first hard move stepping off it. That's what I went with on mine (45 degrees) and it works well.
I struggled to get screw ons low down, ended up using a small electric screwdriver. Bolt ins i just used an Allan key extended with a ring spanner.
Mines 30° and I def wouldn't want a kicker, climbs better and putting one in would have been way more faff, plus at my angle the lowest I can set footholds is about the lowest I can use them without heel dabbing so perfect.
Quote from: Duma on May 11, 2020, 04:12:50 pmMines 30° and I def wouldn't want a kicker, climbs better and putting one in would have been way more faff, plus at my angle the lowest I can set footholds is about the lowest I can use them without heel dabbing so perfect.+1 mine is 30* and, as per the advice on here, didn't for a kickboard. The main thing I would like is a thin mat first the first 20cm so if your feet slip you don't smash your heels.I need to make some more foot holds, so far they're maybe all a bit too positive / incut. I've been making them out of offcuts from out kitchen floor, which is "engineered hardwood" i.e. super-high quality plywood with loads of glue and a 3mm top hardwood surface - they seem pretty indestructible.
Don't use a kick board Rick. Do you know anyone to make you some holds?
I've experimented with having a kickboard and not on my 45 and have settled on without. The main reason being on a board which is 4 or 5 moves long I'd often find I'd do the first couple of moves keeping feet on the kickboard which definitely makes them easier and therfore having to do less moves where it's a struggle to keep your feet on and surely thats the effect you want or I do personally for my board climbing. Having no kickboard make the start of the board considerably harder (having done the same problems with and without) so it makes feel like I'm getting more climbing out of the board.
