Noticed the chat re naming holds in the IMPACT video a few pages back. Have many bothered naming holds and recording problems etc on their home board? Is it worth doing?
I’ve dabbled with the OpenClimb app but it’s a bit clunky, I’m currently trying the “Eat Spray Love” app (terrible name...)
3) V grades
Quote from: sdm on May 03, 2020, 04:56:42 pm3) V grades "did not meet our criteria for testing"
On that subject, is it the norm for people to grade problems on their boards?
Quote from: Duma on May 03, 2020, 05:07:37 pmQuote from: sdm on May 03, 2020, 04:56:42 pm3) V grades "did not meet our criteria for testing"On that subject, is it the norm for people to grade problems on their boards? I can understand doing it at a commercial wall where there are loads of users looking for problems to try, but cant see why you'd do it on personal home boards. It's never occurred to me how hard my problems would be.
Quote from: GazM on May 03, 2020, 07:29:38 pmQuote from: Duma on May 03, 2020, 05:07:37 pmQuote from: sdm on May 03, 2020, 04:56:42 pm3) V grades "did not meet our criteria for testing"But what about when your mediums become warm ups? Should you not be aiming to make 6b be feeling like a rest?On that subject, is it the norm for people to grade problems on their boards? I can understand doing it at a commercial wall where there are loads of users looking for problems to try, but cant see why you'd do it on personal home boards. It's never occurred to me how hard my problems would be.I'm way to slack to try and properly grade everything. I just go with easy aka warm ups, medium aka 1-2 sessions and hard.
Quote from: Duma on May 03, 2020, 05:07:37 pmQuote from: sdm on May 03, 2020, 04:56:42 pm3) V grades "did not meet our criteria for testing"But what about when your mediums become warm ups? Should you not be aiming to make 6b be feeling like a rest?On that subject, is it the norm for people to grade problems on their boards? I can understand doing it at a commercial wall where there are loads of users looking for problems to try, but cant see why you'd do it on personal home boards. It's never occurred to me how hard my problems would be.
But what about when your mediums become warm ups? Should you not be aiming to make 6b be feeling like a rest?
Quote from: remus on May 03, 2020, 10:35:50 pmQuote from: GazM on May 03, 2020, 07:29:38 pmQuote from: Duma on May 03, 2020, 05:07:37 pmQuote from: sdm on May 03, 2020, 04:56:42 pm3) V grades "did not meet our criteria for testing"But what about when your mediums become warm ups? Should you not be aiming to make 6b be feeling like a rest?On that subject, is it the norm for people to grade problems on their boards? I can understand doing it at a commercial wall where there are loads of users looking for problems to try, but cant see why you'd do it on personal home boards. It's never occurred to me how hard my problems would be.I'm way to slack to try and properly grade everything. I just go with easy aka warm ups, medium aka 1-2 sessions and hard.
QuoteBut what about when your mediums become warm ups? Should you not be aiming to make 6b be feeling like a rest?Nothing. Keeps the system simple and dispels any illusion that board grades make sense
I'm way to slack to try and properly grade everything. I just go with easy aka warm ups, medium aka 1-2 sessions and hard.
Quote from: remus on May 04, 2020, 11:08:58 amQuoteBut what about when your mediums become warm ups? Should you not be aiming to make 6b be feeling like a rest?Nothing. Keeps the system simple and dispels any illusion that board grades make sense So your dispensing with one illusion but embracing another if you're warming up on "mediums" which aren't medium for you anymore