[Paul B]

You're asking the joint to do a lot of work rather than the section.

However, based on the UKC article I've no longer got any faith in Engineering/Physics as everything I've been taught is clearly a lie:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_home_climbing_wall_boom_covid-19_constructions-12728?fbclid=IwAR0u77DxzMI4uQxNM7ntXm9NV0hqw-ALtKZunJlv5Oq6krSn3NbY0_JVNN4

[SA Chris]

https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/features/the_home_climbing_wall_boom_covid-19_constructions-12728?fbclid=IwAR0u77DxzMI4uQxNM7ntXm9NV0hqw-ALtKZunJlv5Oq6krSn3NbY0_JVNN4

"Sponsored climber Ethan Walker has one of the most spacious boards, which he'll be using as a circuit board alongside his partner Sabina"

How does he use his partner as a circuit board?

[lorentz]

I like the Kyra Condie's home board in a small cupboard space... A space that's about the size of my living room.  Jealous? For real.

[Paul B]

I like the Kyra Condie's home board in a small cupboard space... A space that's about the size of my living room.  Jealous? For real.

That reminds me of the article that presented the A as a substandard training facility 

Kyra Condie, one of America’s strongest female climbers and a promising Olympic hopeful, trains on a small, greasy wall you might expect to see in a garage. This self-coached climber is making up for a lack of fancy facilities with raw strength and grit.

I wand that one.

https://www.climbing.com/people/the-climbing-q-a-kyra-condie/

[gme]

I love the one that’s been built to fold up into a box. Quality thought process.

And I am not asking for an engineers perspective Paul. Talking concepts.

Good idea for an outdoor board design if anyone was thinking about one. Able to keep most of the ply destroying weather off it ( sun as well as rain ).

[cheque]

I like the Kyra Condie's home board in a small cupboard space... A space that's about the size of my living room.  Jealous? For real.

I think it’s fixed straight onto a wall that’s angled (like TomTom’s board) so while the room’s floor space is similar to that of a British living room you wouldn’t be able to use it as such. Pretty cool use of space but you’ve got to wonder where she’s keeping the hoover these days.

Interesting to rubberneck at the living situations of Insta-celebrity climbers (or indeed just your mates who you only ever see at crags or walls) through Insta these days. Robbie Philips is losing his mind in a flat smaller than mine but with even less training equipment while Ethan Walker’s board appears to be built in the stables of his stately home!

[kac]

There are some great looking boards in that ukc article. I'm planning on getting something built when the lockdown restrictions get lifted. Does anyone have a recommendation for simple cheap resin holds good for a 45 board? I have found online some cheap ones from kmz holds sold through alpinetrek and was wondering if anyone has any knowledge of whether kmz holds are any good?

[Will Hunt]

There are some great looking boards in that ukc article. I'm planning on getting something built when the lockdown restrictions get lifted. Does anyone have a recommendation for simple cheap resin holds good for a 45 board? I have found online some cheap ones from kmz holds sold through alpinetrek and was wondering if anyone has any knowledge of whether kmz holds are any good?

I think it depends on how strong you are. The Moonboard holds normally function at 40 degrees but most of them would be fine at 45. A lot of them are little finger jugs. But they are quite samey. It's nice to get a set of resins because they're generally quite affordable to buy in a large set and these can be your "base" set. Then you can add to them with nicer wooden screw ons over time.

[mrjonathanr]

Core do decent holds.

[tomtom]

Some moon board holds have a bad rep for being tweaky and hard on the skin. I got some cheap resin Bolt ons from Amazon for about £2 each which is a bargain - and they’re fine - just - err they’re plastic. 

For me wood is the way. I’ve got some in the post from Rick Ginns (about £5-6 a hold) and had a dozen crimps from PeeWee (Pete Wilkinson) at £4 a hold. I know Crusher Holds (Paul?) has now cleared his backlog of work too. Also SteveR on here also makes holds.

The great advantage of wood is the above holdmakers can make them to how you want them - pinches, blocks, sidepulls, crimps etc.. and put in enough incut so they work at your board angle (or are sufficiently testing).

Also - at this time giving some ££ to local craftspeople...

[Will Hunt]

Yes, I meant to come on here and give a plug to Rick Ginns. The crimps were about £4 a go which is amazingly reasonable for something that's been handmade to your specification. 10 holds goes an incredibly long way on a board.

[kac]

Thanks fellas. That is kind of what I was thinking and I have ordered some hardwood holds. Moon holds do seem a bit expensive and only seem to be worth it if your going down the moonboard route and want set problems. I'm aiming for something more like nice hair Dan's board but at a more punter level. The kmz holds look suspiciously cheap so i'm only gonna order them if someone has them and can recommend.

I do also agree it would be better to use a local business and i'm doing this for the wood holds and the board. I might see if any of the sheffield walls have any old spare holds they want to sell. If anyone knows of anything please send me a message.

[Bradders]

Core do decent holds.

I have sets of their Font mini jugs and limestone small crimps on a 45, plus two sets of footholds. Can't fault them, and at £3 a hold for the crimps and £4 for the mini jugs they're excellent value. Positive enough to use on a 45 although hard obviously.

Agree with others though that wood is best. Comes in a bit steeper at £4-6 for a small-medium size hold, but much nicer to use.

On a related note, anyone have recommendations for slopers for a 45? I.e. holds that you have to take open handed but aren't blocky pinches.

[Will Hunt]

Have a word with Beastmaker. If you have a look at my Instagram posts you can see the big chunky Beastmaker holds. That's a result of giving them an idea of how shit I was and asking for some pinches and slopes with a couple of crimps added in. The one in the top left is very much a pinch and there are a couple in the middle next to the Sharknado hold (the big flatty/sloper in the middle) which are crimps, but everything else on there could just as easily be a sloper if you profiled the bottom side to be less thumbable. The only issue with the Beastmaker holds is that they're pricey and they take up quite a lot of space because they're so big.

[Bradders]

Ah okay, thanks Will. Not sure if they're still making holds as they're off the website. Definitely seems to up the price per hold as soon as you move away from crimps!

[wasbeen]

I have found you can get away with making slopers from soft wood (e.g. 2x4). They are pretty quick to shape with a multi tool, or belt sander.  It is best to use big diameter screws to mount then otherwise they tend to pull through.

[gme]

Softwood will be fine for a home board. If you can’t get holds or costs an issue you can easily make up a load of simple holds in a day from off cuts without any fancy tools.

I am sure Paul will be along in a minute to point out my rose tinted specs but most if not all of the boards around in the 80s and 90s were made from softwood and did the job. A home wall gets so little use compared to a commercial so having hardwood just isn’t necessary
If you can get bits of hardwood use them for footholds as that’s where you get issues.

[SA Chris]

I've got a load of pinches made from banister rail, work pretty well, you really need to crank them down hard to avoid spinning though. I've put hex head bolts into them now which have embedded into the wood, and i just turn the whole thing to tighten it.

[RobK]

A little off topic but I have some 2x4 left over from building my garage board and am planning to build a pull up bar at the end of my lawn. Basically digging two holes for each 2x4 vertical and filling them with concrete. Anyone ever done anything like this before and know how deep I need the holes so it doesn't instantly fall over? Or have any other tips? My 2x4 is 3m long so was hoping for something like 60-80cm holes and a 2.2-2.4m bar height.

[remus]

A little off topic but I have some 2x4 left over from building my garage board and am planning to build a pull up bar at the end of my lawn. Basically digging two holes for each 2x4 vertical and filling them with concrete. Anyone ever done anything like this before and know how deep I need the holes so it doesn't instantly fall over? Or have any other tips? My 2x4 is 3m long so was hoping for something like 60-80cm holes and a 2.2-2.4m bar height.

Im not an engineer but 60-80cm sounds like plenty, especially if you're generous with the concrete. I had to dig out some concreted fence posts that were down to ~30cm and that was very hard work.

[wasbeen]

Assuming the wood is untreated then the bottoms will rot pretty quick. Soaking the ends in (used) motor oil for a few days will help a lot. Wood permitting, I would be tempted to double up on the timbers in each hole, arranged to make a L-section. If you only have enough wood for one in each hole, then have the 4inch side normal to the board and add some bracing between the uprights. 60-80cm deep sounds perfect. It will be a bit wobbly bit it won't break (for a while).

[tomtom]

Its bloody hard work digging down to 80cm!!

+1 for the rotting issue too (look how long fence posts last - ie not long - and they're treated)...

If this is a temporary (ish) lockdown feature - I'd be tempted to make it freestanding with two tethers for each pole (static line?). Some sort of ground anchor/angle iron bashed into the ground for each tether... section of ply under each foot to stop it sinking etc...

Of course it all depends what you've got lying around etc....

[RobK]

Cheers for all the replies. My board has used up the part of the garage with decent head height, hence the outdoor bar. The board hopefully isn't going anywhere so not aiming for anything too temporary. Maybe I need to rethink my materials, was thinking 2x4 because it's what I have lying around but may be false economy if it is just going to rot away. And agreed, 60-80cm depth would be a challenge!

[Paul B]

There's guidance (again for hoardings) that gives a really simple method (originally for lampposts if anyone cares) for post-in-hole foundations; it's a function of the foundation dia., depth and the ground (simplified to poor, average and good). Depth is ^3 (so deeper is far better than making it fatter).

Any outward (or lateral) force you're applying to the bar (hopefully you don't do Crossfit pullups?) is applied like a cantilever. You'd be better of with square posts IMO.

[Bradders]

Thanks for the replies regarding slopers. Ended up finding these on Hardwood Holds so giving them a go:

https://www.hardwoodholds.co.uk/store/p166/Board_Slopers.html