[Yossarian]

Yeah, I think maybe the best plan is to stick up a PDF plan for comments. Need to figure out what timber I can get my hands on.

The Yonder one got various YouTube comments questioning the relative lack of horizontals on the back. I think their argument was that it wasn’t intended to last very long...

[Somebody's Fool]

1220mm. So one at each end and one in the middle.

I guess the 2400mm header that takes the middle strut is doing more work than it’s supposed to, but in practice seemed to be ok.

[gme]

I am just in the process of sketching one up. 40 degree moonboard but shorter than the full height so i can get it under my balcony. I can get 15 rows of tnuts rather than 18 but with a half size footboard. Ben is bringing a set up out based on a mini board with 12 rows based on original holds plus the new wooden ones, so i will set it up like that with a few extra rows of randoms at the top.

Using 2" x 4" (50mm x 100mm) for the frame at 800 centers with 19mm ply which i am sure will be more than strong enough for a home wall. I can fix to the concrete soffit at the head so no issues there and the rest will be freestanding. Fingerboard rail on the side and maybe a five rung campus board but not sure i will use it much.

I have been thinking about doing this for years but kept putting it off as i thought i wouldnt use it enough but lockdowns given me the time to do it so am actually excited about the build as much as climbing on it. Not built a board for years.

[Paul B]

1220mm. So one at each end and one in the middle.

I guess the 2400mm header that takes the middle strut is doing more work than it’s supposed to, but in practice seemed to be ok.

Interesting. That comes out a bit light in my head when you work it back to a UDL.

Using 2" x 4" (50mm x 100mm) for the frame at 800 centers with 19mm ply which i am sure will be more than strong enough for a home wall. I can fix to the concrete soffit at the head so no issues there and the rest will be freestanding. Fingerboard rail on the side and maybe a five rung campus board but not sure i will use it much.

I'd agree.

I have been thinking about doing this for years but kept putting it off as i thought i wouldnt use it enough but lockdowns given me the time to do it so am actually excited about the build as much as climbing on it. Not built a board for years.

  there's a Bisharat article somewhere where he compressed a Moonboard and he also has resin campus rungs 

Yeah, I think maybe the best plan is to stick up a PDF plan for comments. Need to figure out what timber I can get my hands on.

Looking at the Yonder board, I can't fathom why you'd choose to break the central timber up between your horizontal rails. Likewise, as above, the centers would make me uncomfortable. I also can't see what's restraining the foot of the board/supports?

With that said, there's plenty that makes me uncomfortable day to day that doesn't fall down (see GME's earlier comments re: the School's construction). FoS = 1.

[tomtom]

so am actually excited about the build as much as climbing on it.

I really enjoyed thinking about it, planning it and building it.

[SA Chris]

I liked the finishing work on mine, finally getting it done felt like a chore early on though.

Really great to be be able to nip out and have a go on it for half an hour at any time, and being able to set for do easily / can do most of but will go soon / impossible and being able to tweak between the 3 based on using any feet, screw ons for feet or hands follow feet.

Got a ladder of banister rails that I'm using to work on pinches, can give them a tap to get them a bit closer to vertical so they are getting harder and harder to hold.

[HarryBD]

hands follow feet

That sounds quite a lot tougher!

[tomtom]

Punter alert:


Kickboard and new wooden holds to come... may have to make some of the feet closer to edge - hard to make some throws with a narrow space..

[SA Chris]

hands follow feet

That sounds quite a lot tougher!

lol. You know what I mean! I've actually got a problem using old feet off a sofa called "feet for hands".

[Will Hunt]

I am just in the process of sketching one up. 40 degree moonboard but shorter than the full height so i can get it under my balcony. I can get 15 rows of tnuts rather than 18 but with a half size footboard.

That sounds identical to my board if you want to see what it looks like (there are some videos on Instagram). There are 15 rows of T-nuts (I think they're at the 20cm Moon spacing) before a short kickboard.

[HarryBD]

hands follow feet

That sounds quite a lot tougher!

lol. You know what I mean! I've actually got a problem using old feet off a sofa called "feet for hands".

Like it! You can't stay away from wordplay can you?

[SA Chris]

Word to that.

[gme]

I am just in the process of sketching one up. 40 degree moonboard but shorter than the full height so i can get it under my balcony. I can get 15 rows of tnuts rather than 18 but with a half size footboard.

That sounds identical to my board if you want to see what it looks like (there are some videos on Instagram). There are 15 rows of T-nuts (I think they're at the 20cm Moon spacing) before a short kickboard.

Will check it out. I think the official 12 row mini board will be out and on the APP in a few weeks so will go along with that. Even when we are not on lock down i climb on my own so fancy the ability to have 100s of problems gifted to me, plus i also like the new holds, hopefully they are ok outside.

[Duma]

Anyone built a board at a shallower angle? I'm pretty limited in options but if, as I think likely, walls won't reopen before the autumn, then it may be worth doing what I can.
Reckon I can get 3m climbing surface/2.8m high/1m overhang for approx 20°
Basically it's in a narrow courtyard, so the 1m overhang is as much as I can get - allowing space to swing off safely. I can go higher, but at a shallower angle. Worth it? Any tips?

[Paul B]

The school originally had the crag-x board that wasn't all that steep but you started hanging with one foot on. For a few problems you'd start just hanging the starting holds and getting your foot on was pretty bloody hard in itself.

The holds were all small and I found it incredibly good in terms of finger/contact strength.

I was a bit saddened when it didn't make the revamp.

[Somebody's Fool]

Anyone built a board at a shallower angle?

The picture I linked to further back is pretty much exactly the dimensions and height you describe.

I had a quick go on it to test how solid it was and at 20 degrees it's steep enough to do a sit start, and gives 3-5 moves depending on size of move. It's definitely worthwhile if the holds are bad.

[tomtom]

Anyone built a board at a shallower angle? I'm pretty limited in options but if, as I think likely, walls won't reopen before the autumn, then it may be worth doing what I can.
Reckon I can get 3m climbing surface/2.8m high/1m overhang for approx 20°
Basically it's in a narrow courtyard, so the 1m overhang is as much as I can get - allowing space to swing off safely. I can go higher, but at a shallower angle. Worth it? Any tips?

Smaller holds and/or shitter footholds. The 35 at Mad Volume in Hull climbs remarkably like the 50+ at the depot - because the feet are so much harder!

[SA Chris]

Any tips?

Yep, owt is better than nowt! Probably no kickboard needed at that angle for a start.

[Duma]

Ah yes, cheers SF I had seen that but somehow hadn't made the connection! Does that really overhang a meter? Looks less steep than the drawing I made, but could be the perspective.
TT, yeah but 35° is very different to 20°! If I had the space and only one board it would be 30°-35°, really like that sort of angle to climb on and means you can use bad enough holds to be realistic for rock projects, without them being too tiny and painful. Just needs a fair amount of height to get a decent climbing length in. Sadly not an option for me anyway...
Chris, def won't be having a kicker.
Still not decided if it'll be worth it, max width is around 5ft too.

[Yossarian]

Ok, this is a bit of a crap and rushed diagram which will probably offend all the engineers...

I’d like to build a board at 35deg, with room for 4x 8x4 sheets up, but probably only 3x to start with.

My main questions are re the timber sections (2x4 for the 4x main vertical pieces, 2x4 for everything else), relative merits of overlapping and bolting through at B and C vs butting the timber up and screwing through a ply lapping section (ie the two diagrams at the bottom), and the cross piece A - I always remember landing on this in the past, though in this case it would be relatively further back if we’re not climbing to the top of the frame.

Any thoughts?

[Duma]

Cross piece A can be smaller cross section (3"x1" ish?) and lie flat to the floor?

[dunnyg]

Not an engineer or even close, but why not have the supports (the non board side of your triangle) vertical or at least more vertical?

[Yossarian]

I did wonder about both these things. Last one of these I built as the subject of advice from a sofa designer and built like a tank... This is going in the garden btw, before anyone thinks we have a 5m high ballroom to put this in...

I would love to reduce the overall depth, so reducing the non-board depth a bit would be very advantageous.

[Nutty]

If overlapping at the top coach bolt join, wouldn't you have to overlap at the bottom rear corner and butt join at B (unless bending the timber)?

[Yossarian]

Yes, I see your point. I think my aim would be to keep the board side as neat / disassemble-able as possible, so maybe bolt the top and base of the board, and butt-join / ply-lap the joint at B...