[SA Chris]

looks a bit vertical to me. And the right wall only has one low hold?

[Oldmanmatt]

Are you left handed Doylo? Just wondering, pet hypothesis type thing.


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[Durbs]

Good for traversing and chimney practise I guess

[rodma]

Good for traversing and chimney practise I guess

I assume you don't mean my board, it's 12 feet from the kickboard to the the top [emoji14]

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[SEDur]

Very nice Doylo. Who made all the wood holds, and where did you get the yellow resin set?

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[Doylo]

Are you left handed Doylo? Just wondering, pet hypothesis type thing.


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Nope.

Very nice Doylo. Who made all the wood holds, and where did you get the yellow resin set?

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I got the wood holds from Alex Fry (LX holds). He's got a website,  google him. They're sweet but pretty nails at that angle. I've had the yellow Moon holds saved up for years. Some guy who did Action directe and Hubble gave them me.

[Oldmanmatt]

I got the wood holds from Alex Fry (LX holds). He's got a website,  google him. They're sweet but pretty nails at that angle. I've had the yellow Moon holds saved up for years. Some guy who did Action directe and Hubble gave them me.

So, not Shark then...[emoji12]

What was your setting rationale then? Mimicking problems/moves on projects? Always curious why people set the way they do and what they hope to achieve etc.


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[Doylo]

I started out setting about 6 problems (without trying them) then I just filled in the blanks. Most my problems are feet follow hands so I consider that, what you're going to be using for your feet later on. Some problems I just use screw ins for feet.  Not really set any replicas yet. It's too steep for the stuff I'm keen on outside anyway. I don't think you need to analyse where you put the holds too much, just needs to be filled with varied, good holds and you'll always have hundreds  of combinations. 

[Oldmanmatt]

I prefer to set a board symmetrically and fill it up completely, even filling up gaps between T nuts with screw ons. I guess this is only because I see it as training (in it's purest sense) and I should be repeating every move in both directions.
I get lots of complaints and an equal number of back pats for this.

In the best traditions of un-scientific, anecdotal, half thought out evidence based thinking; I reckon the majority of setters set everything as rising traverses to the right (where it's not a straight up problem).
I think it's unconscious and a right-handed preference thing (if it exists), but working with the youth squad on the board, I am convinced that the same move, opposite handed, can be much harder for most people.

But, I'd love to hear counter arguments.

My ideal, would be two boards; one the inverse of the other. No room unfortunately.


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[Doylo]

For me to be really motivated to train it needs to be fun so I've always just bouldered on the boards. Lapping problems, trying single moves and stuff a bit beyond you. Fun moves etc... Those system , symmetrical boards bore the Shit out of me. If I had one in my garage instead of what I've got I wouldn't be half as motivated to go in. Boards where the only feet are miniscule footholds piss me off too despite knowing they're good for your tension.

[Oldmanmatt]

I can't really claim your way doesn't work, can I... [emoji3]

I think that's why I'd like to have two boards, I idly dream of having a "going left" or "going right" day, in much the same way body builders have "leg" days etc...

 Would say symmetrical isn't so bad as long as it's only in the one plane.
I have a smaller board, a single 2.44x1.22  which is very symmetrical and repetitive, but I see that as a ramped up foot on Campusing deal.
Basically using it to warm up for Campusing, myself.


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[Doylo]

The ultimate is the school 50 board where a good classic tick is at least as satisfying as one outside and you can even put them on your scorecard. 

[Doylo]

I can't really claim your way doesn't work, can I... [emoji3]

I dunno maybe you could. I'm good at power endurance but usually pretty damn crap on short hard boulder problems.

[Oldmanmatt]

The ultimate is the school 50 board where a good classic tick is at least as satisfying as one outside and you can even put them on your scorecard. 

Amen.


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[rodma]

For me to be really motivated to train it needs to be fun so I've always just bouldered on the boards. Lapping problems, trying single moves and stuff a bit beyond you. Fun moves etc... Those system , symmetrical boards bore the Shit out of me. If I had one in my garage instead of what I've got I wouldn't be half as motivated to go in. Boards where the only feet are miniscule footholds piss me off too despite knowing they're good for your tension.

I'm the same if not worse. I just completely underestimated how long a reset would take, I wish I hadn't taken all the screw ons off.

 I'm still trying to decide how best to use my old campus rungs. They'd be holdable on the roof as undercuts, but I don't know if I'd be able to use them on the steep board at all.

Any one on here use them at steeper angles ( greater than 55 degrees) at all?

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[Oldmanmatt]

What depth rungs? We have 24mm rung off-cuts on our 45* (what I'd call medium rungs) and they are very positive crimps.
However, the Crusher crimps on the 40* are (I think) ~18-20mm and, frankly, minging.


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[rodma]

Thanks matt

I've got medium and small Metolius, so I think you've just sold me on what to do with the mediums.

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[Durbs]

Is an 8" off-set grid still considered the norm for home boards?

i.e. a 4" x 4" grid drawn on board with alternating holes drilled...

[Oldmanmatt]

Mine's 6x6, all drilled. No idea if that's normal.


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[Probes]

However, the Crusher crimps on the 40* are (I think) ~18-20mm and, frankly, minging.

Minging in what way Matt?

[Oldmanmatt]

Hard to hold at 40*!

Which means I love them and use them every day.
Well, try to.

The board is variable and can be set @ 20*, 30* or 40*.

I have a plan to convert the 45* to mainly wooden holds (if I ever make enough money, always the biggest drag to my plans).

I was concerned they would have too short a life span at a wall, but 12 months of use and their still fine.
Even our homemade (often soft wood) holds used on the main wall, soldier on after 4 years.





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[Oldmanmatt]

Ha! Probes, I just connected the dots!
There's nothing wrong with the holds!
Campus rungs are much less in cut, though; so I was thinking about it from that point of view. My choice of words was poor. Don't be offended! Love Crusher.


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[rodma]

Is an 8" off-set grid still considered the norm for home boards?

i.e. a 4" x 4" grid drawn on board with alternating holes drilled...

I did mine as a straight 8" grid and regret it,  in hindsight i would have preferred a straight 4" grid. I have enough t nuts to rectify it,  but rather dimly started the grid 4" out from the edge so will strike the spring timbers.

In saying that i still need to put a bunch more screw ons on the wall

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[Durbs]

 

GOT WOOD :D

 

Sunday Build-day

[Oldmanmatt]

GOT WOOD :D

 

Sunday Build-day

Nice. Secretly, I think building it is more fun than using it... shhh!

However, the Crusher crimps on the 40* are (I think) ~18-20mm and, frankly, minging.

Minging in what way Matt?

Here you go. I prefer foot on campusing on this to repeaters on the finger board. Not a direct equivalent, just less tedious.



And, holding the pinches @40* is way harder than the crimps. Which is good.
(Set at 30* in the photo).

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