[Jaspersharpe]

Must admit it looks a bit like Heeley Boulder made out of papier mache.

[Falling Down]

this looks like how not to build a woodie? ok so its more ambitious than the average 45' but come on?...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=72568

 

[lagerstarfish]

Isn't it one of Tracy Emin's?
"Every one I have ever climbed with" or something like that?

[Jaspersharpe]

Perhaps they were trying to make this...........



.......?

[fatdoc]

well....

10 years ago I built my last board... (made 5 so far in total)

I've made one for my birthday, this time last week it was a pipedream (though i did get the garage rewired last month by way of planning)...


what have done / made??

40degrees, 10 inch kick board, 10ft of face, 3 roof beams worth of wood / fingerboards out past the board. 8 by 4 simple frame... about 100 wood holds and the same of resin.. the boards were *owed* to me from the chesterfield board syndicate from yrs gone by..

gosh? isnt it easier to own a few powertools? What took 3 weeks by hand takes 3 hrs!!


piccies to follow...

1st sesh = aching / pain (but not too much to cause harm) for 2 days, second sesh tonight... ideal sesh with few probs done and projects a plenty!!


there is something about your own board isnt there? I had one of the 1st overhanging boards in sheff (1989) and now it's not in a dust ridden cellar but an open garage.. no more board induced asthma for me then!

I MUST give respect to fatboyslimfast for helping me get the 8ft by 4ft thick ply sheets up and to bubba for the bargain hold purchase this summer when he cleared out his garage.

bearing down on wood for the first time in a decade feels good man...

some of the wood holds on the board are older than my eldest son who is now well into the board training thing!!

its a revelation.. makes you wonder on how to best train for boulder probs / short sport routes... i feel a training programme coming on!

not the biggest board on here, nor probs the best - but I'm a proud new *father* of my newest creation!!

[Jim]

I couldn't even comprehend building a board without power tools

[Dolly]

Fatdoc, rumour in the Sheaf is that you're not inviting anyone round till you get  all the problems wired ?

[fatdoc]

yep.


er.. no... i'll ring you

[philo]

did someone say power tools!

[Jim]

I'm going to be painting my board soon, has anyone any experience of this and advice?
I've been told it causes the holds to spin a lot, was thinking of using only a very thin coat of thin paint to avoid this, what paint do you think would be best?

[Monolith]

The board at awesome walls was recently painted (not sure why when there are clearly greater priorities) and as you say Jim, the holds seem to spin a lot. Are you looking to paint it for protective purposes?

[Jim]

just to cover up some water marks and all the old hold names and generally just make the board look half decent

[SA Chris]

this looks like how not to build a woodie? ok so its more ambitious than the average 45' but come on?...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=72568

Looks like that piece of shit freestanding boulder they have (had?) at High Sports in Redhill.

[Dr T]

should have seen the old one at the barn mark 1
looked ok if a tad too DIY from the outside but from the back - kinda made you think twice about pulling too hard
hope the barn mark 2 doesn't have a slurry filled obstacle course leading from the parking to the door... 

[Jim]

Painted the board last night with some grey undercoat/primer.
Looks a lot better now, can't seem to set the board very well though. Wasn't happy with the last setting and the new setting seems even worse.
Anyone got any good methods or rules on which to set by?
I've got a reasonable selection of slopers, crimps and jugs on plastic and wood

[Dr T]

I've got a reasonable selection of slopers, crimps and jugs on plastic and wood

I find an IXI distribution of jugs for warming up

X distribution of of slopers (or X with another X on top)

and stacked U distributions of crimps so that you traverse each way then up

fill in the gaps as you can

along the top mostly positive slopers and flatties not big jugs...

hope this makes some sort of sense...

[a dense loner]

nowhere near enough holds now that the board has become a third bigger. get clm to make some, then throw them. get worm to get some, then you'll be too old. etc

[dave]

Jim, just put the holds on roughly randomly then tweak it, ditch/move anything that you're not using or improvise. use screw-on handholds on gaps or unusable space like where the beams are behind the ply. remember you need some degree of randomality to it otherwise you'll just be working your strengths. i.e. if i covered a board in crimps set diagonally at 45degrees i'd not get strong at all. i found it hard to do real problems at the edges of the board cos you'll always be hitting a wall or having no flag-room for your leg, so just set warmup jugs in a loop around the perimeter of the board - so they are not in the way of real problems plus you can have a stamina circuit for fagging around on.

another tip is have 2 sets of footholds. one set for normal use, and with the other set you don't put any holds on the kickboard. personally i find kickboards to be shit, especially on steep boards.  you should have no more than 6 inches of kickboard, and don't have many footholds on it.  otherwise you fall into the "cellar board" trap of doing the first 3 moves of any problem with your feet on the good hold on your footboard (even a shit footholds feels like a jug on a vertical kickboard), then the crux will always be taking your foot off the kickboard and up onto the best foothold on the steepness. also make sure all your footholds are more or less the same or you will just favour the one or two better footholds and ignore the rest. The best problems i had were on the poor footholds with no kickboard. makes it more like real climbing, you have to pull harder and have more body tension.

Having just taken my board down to move house made me really reflect on what is good and bad in woody design and hold placement, and what i will and won't be doing when i rebuild it.

Things i did wrong:
putting too many holds on the kickboard, and having a handfull of steep footholds there were much better than the rest. not enough wood handholds. also not swapping round handholds i wasn't using. i got lazy.

Things i did right:
having a set of poor sloper kickboard-less footholds. having a small kickboard. not making the finishing holds outright jugs. not bothing to paint it (its not a fashion parade). incorporating a set of seperate wooden system holds and footholds.

hope all this helps.

[Jim]

Nice one Dave. I've only a small kickboard with only a couple of shit footholds on.
Am going to tweak the holds tonight and have a session on it tommorow to see what its like.
Painting it has made it miles better, just because of all the hold naming and water marks on the boards from the previous installation, took no time at all really.

I'm tempted to put on some good footholds to start with and get some benchmark problems established and them turn them upside down so they are dogshit

[saltbeef]

so what has happened to g unit's cock?

[Jim]

no fear, that is still there

[neil h]

phase 2 of the maisonbleau woddy nearly finished

[Houdini]

Schweet!   



No fucking excuses now neil!  You live in Font, you have the wall.

8B before 40!

[neil h]

Schweet!   



No fucking excuses now neil!  You live in Font, you have the wall.

8B before 40!

8B before 40 my arse before 34 me old sone


 

[philo]

phase 2 of the maisonbleau woddy nearly finished

woaaa looks sick!