the shizzle > board construction FAQs
How to build a woodie
Bubba:
Is there a link to the rockfax article ?
vivahate:
another link from Indoor Climbing.com
http://www.indoorclimbing.com/climbing_walls.html
dave:
every woody is different, mainly due to how you are going to fix it to your building, and how you do this pretty much dictates how difficulty it will be the build.
Typical cellar:
most victorian terraces have cellars under the living room floor. the living room floor will be held up with massive (oak?) beams with will probably be about 20" appart. this is an adequate seperation for the main beams (i.e. the ones your ply is screwed to).
get 2x4s, and whatever your desired angle of wall is, take half that angle and make your end cut so you can reverse the bit you cut off giving you a short kickboard support peice at the right angle of wall - hold these together by screwing in ply scraps either side for a totally rock solid joint. bolt these main beams into your ceiling with a big (10mm?) coach bolt, then you've got a bombproof construction that will never fall down. if you make the bottom of the main beams sit tight in against the wall then you only need attach the woody to the house via the coach bolts into the beams, no fixing into maisonry needed - this also allows you to totally insulate the wood from masonry with plastic to prevent dry rot. also you may need to sit the beams on little bit of ply to top the wood splitting and carving up the plastic on the floor. Most victorian terraces stopped being square years ago (theres not a right angle in my cellar) so be flexible with the design and cut and fix 1 peice of wood at a time. when you fit the ply try fitting it in segments into the gaps between the ceiling beams - this can give you up to a foot of extra height - a lot when your ceiling hight may only be 6foot between floor and bottom of beams.
keep the kickboard as small as possible, and not put many footholds on and keep then poor - otherwise your first 3 moves will be piss cos your feet will just stay on the good low holds.
dobbin:
dave's right - it depends almost completely on how you are to affix it.
The better boards are metal framed, although these are harder to work with and more permanent (generally). The School is all suspended from a single roof joist, then the 2x4 supports are bolted to anything thats nearby, whether load bearing or otherwise. Clearly this approach is not going to please health and safety inspectors but it works.
The old Foundry Office board had a big slat running along the top of the roof where the up beams leant out against it, and other boards I have worked on have had these beams screwed sideways into a floor support.
There's also certain schools of thought that say that you can frame off your ply and hang it out on a chain - widely called 'wobble boards'.
The question really is - how much room do you have?
dave:
theres also those free-standing "furniature boards" for rented cribs etc. Dave Scuffle might be able to shed some light on these, cos i seem to remember he had one.
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