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that square prow thing at Burbage west (Read 9802 times)

TobyD

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that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 12:20:24 pm
Anyone know if this thing is proper hard, as the cocksmack guide implies, or is it alright really?

Bonjoy

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#1 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 12:31:53 pm
There is some good footage of it on that petzl roctrip vid Johnny Brown just posted a link to, on t'other thread.

Johnny Brown

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#2 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 03:22:25 pm
I reckon 7c+ - its harder than, say, Brad Pit, and the sequence is much less obvious. Easier for the very tall tho.

Jim

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#3 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 03:36:36 pm
and the landings not that bad, you always fall off inbetween the rocks (crux section - not sure if this applies to the top bit tho)

Bonjoy

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#4 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 03:46:04 pm
But is it? Westie bagged WE's in about an hour, after throwing up on the way to the crag due to heavy night before, yet ain't done BP. Just imagine trying to do BP for the first time, if it had WE's landing, it would feel monster! The biggest thing holding me back, feels to be an inability to throw myself at the moves enough, due to fear of falling off badly onto the rock.

Jim

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#5 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 03:52:34 pm
looks like you need to invest in a metolius XXL mat then Lovejoy

dave

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#6 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 03:58:02 pm
yeah, i recon a 6'x4' sheet of piss poor foam draped over the rock will make all the difference! I'll throw a few tissues and old socks onto the pile anall.

Bonjoy

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#7 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 04:00:24 pm
It's not the sort of landing where a bigger pad would help.

Jim

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#8 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 04:05:09 pm
well it was quite good for a year but then started getting thin. Got a couple more layers of the white foam off westie in mine now and its DA BOMB :trout:

Johnny Brown

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#9 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 04:27:10 pm
Quote
But is it? Westie bagged WE's in about an hour, after throwing up on the way to the crag due to heavy night before, yet ain't done BP.


Westie hasn't actually put that much time in on BP. Also, it's hard to quantify it, but think about dis...
...the day he did WE I did it for the first time too. We're pretty similar in overall ability, climb a lot together and tend to be able to match each others ascents. So if I top out in front of him he has a psychological boost, and vice versa.
That is of course, as long as I'm not using some obviously ultra-flexible beta that I've got wired some time in the past and does nothing but depress him.

Quote
Just imagine trying to do BP for the first time, if it had WE's landing, it would feel monster!


Not convinced. BP is one move that occasionally dumps you on your arse. With a few pads WE is no more scary for the crux as the fall is much more predictable. Admittedly the top is scary, but then that's not the bit earnin the grade.

Bear in mind Lamiche flashed BP with no local knowledge, but even with beta, ten mats and spotters WE took quite a while. He didn't argue with 7c+.

There is no greater crime than downgradin problems you haven't done :wink:

cofe

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#10 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 04:34:32 pm
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"
We're pretty similar in overall ability,



Scouse D

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#11 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 04:42:27 pm
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"
We're pretty similar in overall ability,



Bonjoy

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#12 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 04:52:07 pm
Not advocating a change of grade, as I am in no position to do that. Just saying how it feels to me. Really I haven't tried WE enough to have a very valid opinion though. Am I allowed to toprope it now to prove my point? :wink:

Ru

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#13 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 04:57:34 pm
Quote
Bear in mind Lamiche flashed BP with no local knowledge


Thing with Brad Pit is that I doubt that there's a media savvy boulderer in the world that doesn't know the heel sequence - I've seen pics of it in about 5 french mags over the years, not to mention on the internet.

Anyway BP is 7c if you can do it, it's just that some people find the heel sequence hard/impossible so they drag the average grade up. WE is just straight slapping up slopes. If you were very happy with using heels, BP at height over a bad landing would be fine, but if you are one of the people that find BP hard then it would be loads more difficult than WE if it was in the same position.

Anyway, it's an academic argument, only one of us has our hands on the trigger :wink: Having said that, for a price it can be any grade you like.

And who's westie?

Bonjoy

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#14 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 05:02:14 pm
Know what you mean re BP, I always thought 7c+ but now its done i'm thinking maybe it was 7c after all. Hey-ho. :?

dave

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#15 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 07:07:01 pm
Quote from: "Ru"
And who's westie?


the best answer to that is "not dense".

Jim

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#16 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 07:34:12 pm
I was gonna say dense but that would just be confusing now wouldn't it

a dense loner

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#17 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 23, 2004, 11:05:11 pm
sam westaker.

Johnny Brown

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#18 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 24, 2004, 10:40:10 am
Quote
Anyway BP is 7c if you can do it, it's just that some people find the heel sequence hard/impossible so they drag the average grade up. WE is just straight slapping up slopes.
 If you were very happy with using heels, BP at height over a bad landing would be fine, but if you are one of the people that find BP hard then it would be loads more difficult than WE if it was in the same position.


Comparin apples with oranges I guess. The main thing is Brad Pit is one move really, whereas Western eyes is more sustained. I think anyone who has done both several (3+) times would agree WE is a harder prospect irrespective of landing :wink:

Bubba

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#19 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 24, 2004, 10:46:15 am
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"
I think anyone who has done both several (3+) times...



cofe

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#20 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 24, 2004, 11:06:14 am
Johnny Brown... we



you.

a dense loner

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#21 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 24, 2004, 05:04:55 pm
how dare anyone think of comparing me n johnny!

clm

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#22 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 25, 2004, 03:41:46 pm
They dont dense...jonny has hair :wink:

a dense loner

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#23 that square prow thing at Burbage west
November 25, 2004, 04:54:45 pm
you shouldn't be lookin :roll:

 

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