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Re: Ashima(mini)wad (Read 2724 times)

remus

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#25 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
October 29, 2012, 07:16:55 am
Apparently she's now done Lucifer as well.  :strongbench:

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#26 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
October 29, 2012, 11:28:18 am
Amazingly fast too   :jaw:

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#27 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
November 20, 2012, 11:20:11 pm
Good video. I've repeating 'tight yeah get it' to a 10 year old was a bit weird to be honest...

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#28 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
November 21, 2012, 06:45:47 am
Return of the Warrior Ninja Princess

I'm not clear whether this is
  • the title of the video
  • the name of the problem
  • your assessment of the climber

slackline

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#29 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
November 21, 2012, 07:52:50 am
Return of the Warrior Ninja Princess

I'm not clear whether this is
  • the title of the video
  • the name of the problem
  • your assessment of the climber

Its the first as I don't think its thesigers video nor are any problems of that name mentioned (also if you watch it there is some editing in the style of kung fu movies playing on the title).

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#30 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
November 21, 2012, 03:38:03 pm
Good video. I've repeating 'tight yeah get it' to a 10 year old was a bit weird to be honest...

Quite. She's clearly not one for the vocal gushing herself at this point, which is great to see, let's hope it stays that way. I remember seeing a video of some young girl climbing a V10 or something a while back - with a cringe-worthy load of screaming and pushy parents cheer leading away. Not great viewing.

She hardly looks like she's boning the shit out of those crimps either, so maybe it's not so bad. Maybe the advice pertains to the "I've just hit puberty, grown a shit load and my digits can't keep up" type situations?   

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#31 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
November 21, 2012, 03:54:06 pm
This whole featherweight fearless kids tick big numbers leaves me invariably cold, but that's a pretty nice video, she seems like a sweet kid and has awesome shorts, I hope they stay as her trademark  :2thumbsup:

Putting this back on here as I want my shorts appreciation to be in the right place

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#32 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 19, 2012, 12:52:09 pm
DPM have made their 'stash' videos free, so you can watch Ashima here http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/ashima-shiriashi-lucifer-14c.
Just need to create an account.

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#33 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 19, 2012, 01:17:35 pm
It's on vimeo.

r-man

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#34 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 12:32:14 am
Best bouldering flick I've seen for a while.


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#35 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 09:16:29 am
Always loved Obe's attitude. Great to see him channel it!

:bow:

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#36 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 11:01:54 am
Aww bless her crying as she drops the end! I know the feeling!

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#37 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 11:11:32 am
That was lovely to see.
I loved the vision to throw the toe hook in at the comp (amazing), and the little girl enjoying herself bit too. The way it should be. A nice portrait of Obi to boot.

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#38 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 11:30:49 am
I like how he is taking on the Mr Miyagi role.

andyd

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#39 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 11:44:11 am
I like how he is taking on the Mr Miyagi role.
It appears that this role is mutually beneficial though. Miyagi didn't need a purpose. He had his bonsai. 

SA Chris

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#40 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 20, 2012, 11:45:47 am
Miyagi didn't need a purpose.

Or indeed any sea mammal.

(yes slackers I know, it's not the same thing)

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#41 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 23, 2012, 02:38:32 pm
Noticed this on my girlfriends brake pads:


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#42 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
December 23, 2012, 04:46:28 pm
Yerrrr that film got really good at the end. I like the real positive vibes about climbing. And I love her shorts.

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#43 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
January 11, 2013, 07:48:32 pm

r-man

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#44 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
January 19, 2013, 01:05:25 pm

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#45 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
February 09, 2013, 11:11:43 pm
Best bouldering flick I've seen for a while.



That's a great little video.

jwi

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#46 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
February 28, 2013, 09:01:35 am
I cannot be the only one made extremely uncomfortable by sporting performances by young children being treated as news. Let children be children.

There are many good reasons why Fédération Internationale de Gymnastique don't accept gymnasts under 16 at the olympic games. Climbing is in many aspects a similar sport, we don't have an olympic game, but performances outside on routes and boulders are often treated as if it was a competitive sport.

In the unlikely situation that someone cares what I think, I vote to not heavily publicise sporting performances for children under the age of 16.

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#47 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
February 28, 2013, 09:19:58 am
are you worried that young climbers are going to feel forced to try and stay in the news by pushing themselves? as i agree that this can lead to injuries and excess pressure etc.
but if we all stopped publicising 'miniwads' ascents i dont think that would stop them wanting to try hard, most kids have relentless energy and enjoy trying hard.

in conclusion......... i think sponsors should be careful not to pressure them too much, but i think miniwads should have recognition.

jwi

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#48 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
February 28, 2013, 09:41:03 am
I think we all understand that in a sport where weight to strength ratio is important, e.g. bouldering or gymnastics, the best women are prepubescent. The best girls are going to be the talented few who have not yet had a serious tendon injury.

I am quite sure that treating children's climbing as a competitive elite sport fosters a culture where parents/coaches pressure the children to preform on a level that their bodies cannot tolerate without permanent damages. Practicing at elite levels is also mentally demanding, and behavioural and psychological problems will be the consequence for many.

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#49 Re: Re: Ashima(mini)wad
February 28, 2013, 10:18:35 am
sure ive seen some footage of obi carrion (sp?) talking about how he became really depressed after the pressure and hard training in his teenage years. he talks about loosing focus etc...

it is down to parents, coaches and sponsors to prevent excess pressure. and i presume coaches make sure the kids arent overworked/ overstrained and train correctly (ie no campus boards etc until tendons are strong enough).

 

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