Maybe you could try the in vogue 4 finger half crimp on an edge, I know alot are trying this ATM.I can just about hang bodyweight on a 14mm edge doing it now, have noticed when I full crimp my pinky is adding alot more support going into that half crimped position, where as before my pinky would drag even in full crimp in most cases. Seems like it would have alot of carry over for full crimp, which I believe is the desired effectI've mostly been doing it whilst warming up at the crag, (after doing a decent number of normal half crimp hangs) doing a bodyweight 4 finger half crimp pull on my portable fingerboard feels alot harder than doing a weighted max hangs session in half crimp for me...
I literally can't get my pinky bent 90 degrees at the PIP joint and on the same edge as my other fingers. Huh.
I pissed around on a fingerboard for a while trying to find any position where my pinkie bent like that and no chance. I think it might be due to the size and shape of my hands.
Quote from: Wellsy on September 08, 2022, 10:09:04 pmI pissed around on a fingerboard for a while trying to find any position where my pinkie bent like that and no chance. I think it might be due to the size and shape of my hands.What position is your little finger in when full crimping? This grip should essentially be the same position for the fingers as that just without the thumb over!
If both your joints were at 45 then your fingernail would be digging into your hand 😂