[AndyP]

Looking for some good nearby projects (im located in Saltaire) at a height where I can work them move by move by myself.

So, what are the best lowball problems in the North/West Yorkshire grit? (especially Shipley/Ilkley/Caley area, but I guess as far as Crookrise to the west, and Almscliffe to the east). I'm feeling pretty spoiled for choice hence asking for favourites.

I'm especially interested in stuff in the 7A to 7B range, but suggestions at higher & lower grades also appreciated if they are especially good (or if they are giveaways for the grade).

So far my list includes:

-Green Wing @ Baildon
-Green Traverse @ Shipley (bit long for me)
-Ron's Traverse @ Ilkley

Done a few of the other obvious ones:

-Otzi arete @ Caley
-Alabaster Jack @ Shipley
-The Pinch @ Shipley
-The high campus traverse @ Shipley (if that even falls in that grade/quality range)

[Will Hunt]

I live in Bingley ( ) but I'm struggling with this to be honest. There are some brilliant climbs in this grade range but the lowball, work it move-by-move criteria is really limiting.

Off the top of my head:
Olicana Arete (I haven't actually done it but people rate it)
Ringpiece (above 7B but not by miles and very workable)
Hanging Crack at Earl is pretty good and 7A (never seen 6C)

Wayfinder and Eat the Tall Sit at Ruin Bank Woods. Caveat: these are both my problems and unrepeated (as far as I know). Not classic but both are workable. Original star rating I have Wayfinder highly questionable but probably worth 2 stars.

[AndyP]

Thanks for the suggestions. I should check out ruin bank - those two look like they would suit me pretty well.

[Will Hunt]

By the way, if you're not tiny there's a good sequence for Pinch 32 that skips the worst holds. I thought it was about 7B or 7B+ that way. I think I left a description in the UKC logbook comments.

[Bradders]

By the way, if you're not tiny there's a good sequence for Pinch 32 that skips the worst holds. I thought it was about 7B or 7B+ that way. I think I left a description in the UKC logbook comments.

Whereas everyone else that's done it suggested at least 7C....

Anyway, Ringpiece and Olicana Arete are good shouts. Juju Club is classic and easily workable.

I can think of a few things that aren't necessarily workable but only really have a couple of moves on them. Red Baron and Barry Kingsize maybe.

[User deactivated.]

If Brimham isn't too far then I think it's the probably the best venue in the area at those grades. Black Chipper Arete, Rachael's Box, Red Roof (underrated!), The Grouch, Flow On, Happy Days, The Anchor, Crimpy Roof. Those are all low, workable problems in the requested grade range and there's plenty more I haven't listed.

[Will Hunt]

By the way, if you're not tiny there's a good sequence for Pinch 32 that skips the worst holds. I thought it was about 7B or 7B+ that way. I think I left a description in the UKC logbook comments.

Whereas everyone else that's done it suggested at least 7C....

With my beta? I didn't have to use the crux pinch or the rubbish middle bit of the arete.

[PeteHukb]

 I guess it depends quite how strict you want to get on the "work it move by move" bit - very strictly this would require being able to reach the finishing holds from the ground, which is neither common nor desirable. Certainly none of my own recommendations would be considered remotely highball and can be safely done solo. I'm up the tramway in Baildon, a few mins walk from Green Traverse.

Another vote from me for Green Wing, Olicana and Ron's. I'd also suggest:
- Demon Wall Roof 7A+, Crusis 7B and Underhand 7B+ at Almscliff
- Flapjack Traverse 7A+ at Caley - hardly a classic but maybe the best one fitting your criteria? Others will be better qualified to weigh in.
- Parker (+ sit-start) 7A+/B and Red Baron 7A+ at Shipley

[AndyP]

Loads of good suggestions here, thanks.

I certainly don't just climb Lowballs - just looking for problems where i can really push my upper limit with problems I can work move by move.

I have sunk a load of time into Red Baron, but I'm a little sick of it now since I dropped the easy moves at the top after a long siege last year and haven't been able to do the first move since then. Might come back to it when the temps drop. Same with Parker which I haven't really projected but it's not really my style and I seem to injure myself whenever I try it (bad falls, bashed legs etc).

[AndyP]

I should also give Brimham a look, although it's a little far for multi session projects.

[dunnyg]

Any of the low 7s round demon wall mentioned above, plus dolphin belly slap at 7A, I like Si's arete too. There's a cool traverse starting right of Sis and finishing somewhere way left which is about 7A/+ and is very workable. The crucifix eliminate traverse is fun and also workable (7A).

Horn rib, Caley is only of my favourites, workable from stacked pads.

Jokers wall traverse, Brimham (good for poor weather days!)
Whisky Galore, Brimham
Murky rib, Brimham

Not 3* but almost pleasant on the calf is workable and always feels effort at 6Cish. Then once you've done that there are all the eliminates. Good lamping project venue. Short approach, regularly dry.

[Will Hunt]

Forgot to say before that I don't like Ron's Traverse. The crux is at the end and is avoidable by dropping down onto lower holds than are allowed so it feels especially forced.

[Bradders]

By the way, if you're not tiny there's a good sequence for Pinch 32 that skips the worst holds. I thought it was about 7B or 7B+ that way. I think I left a description in the UKC logbook comments.

Whereas everyone else that's done it suggested at least 7C....

With my beta? I didn't have to use the crux pinch or the rubbish middle bit of the arete.

Yep

[Bradders]

Forgot to say before that I don't like Ron's Traverse. The crux is at the end and is avoidable by dropping down onto lower holds than are allowed so it feels especially forced.

Agree, didn't notice you'd put that on your initial list Andy. I think it's a bit horrible in fact. And you also can't actually work it move by move, I found you pretty much have to go from the start every time. None of this has anything to do with the fact that I've not done it