[James Malloch]

Is this just nails for 7B? Or do the holds get a lot better in colder conditions?

Tried it a week or so a go and managed to hold all the positions but not actually do any moves (there’s only 3). Tried it this week in cooler conditions - which were still pretty warm to be fair - and had the same result.

It’s a very different style but I’ve managed some longer 7B here, flashed some 7A/+ and climbing with a friend who is much stronger than me.

Neither of us could touch it despite both going fairly well at the moment.

[monkoffunk]

Some of the short blocy 7Bs on Portland are pretty hard but don’t they just don’t compare to stuff like Liquid Sunshine. I’ve done LS at 7B+ but not Full Power at 7A+ on same bloc. I always feel I have to caveat that I’ve climbed 7B+ with which one it is. Can’t touch Work Shy without the block, but most people seem to climb it with the block and still call it 7B.

[James Malloch]

Some of the short blocy 7Bs on Portland are pretty hard but don’t they just don’t compare to stuff like Liquid Sunshine. I’ve done LS at 7B+ but not Full Power at 7A+ on same bloc. I always feel I have to caveat that I’ve climbed 7B+ with which one it is. Can’t touch Work Shy without the block, but most people seem to climb it with the block and still call it 7B.

I think you’re right that it’s probably just the style. But that one in particular seemed such a massive step up from say Acid House which is also short and powerful.

I’d be keen to try it when it’s 10 degrees cooler.

On workshy I didn’t managed the last move (couldn’t get my feet on after the jump) but it’s so much easier with the block. Couldn’t work on how to pull on without it vs. doing the first two moves first go when using the block.

[monkoffunk]

Workshy seems a massive step up from any 7A+ or 7B (eg Ladies Night) I’ve done. Pinch of salt needed with some of the grades, I think the locals know how the individual problems compare.