[Duma]

M - 12 hr shift.
T - Ansteys. Slept badly and forgot breakfast. Warm up on Might and Main 6c, felt a bit clunky but not been outside since June so to be expected I guess. Then onto Just Revenge 7c+. Had had a quick dog up this at the end of a session last summer, did all the moves but felt like I'd need to be much fitter. Pleased to remember it pretty well, did most of the crux section first go when dogging up, then a good redpoint attempt failing at the move to the pocket (~25 moves and end of the hard climbing). Also linked from the break (rest) below the 3rd bolt to the top. Fumbled a slot partway through the crux next go, and then just too tired (should have remembered breakfast) good day though, pleased with links and highpoint.
W - Eve, Cheddar, wave. Warmed up repeating The Minstrel 7a+, then G-Whizz 7b+ 2nd go, pretty much a 1 mover, but it's a fun throw. Attempted Insufferable 7b+, a new direct finish to Insatiable via a massive move . Got close but didn't quite hold the dyno. Obviously stupidly morpho, but worth getting back on at some point. Finished off on The Gift 6b+
T -
F - 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
S - TCA pm, 1 hr bouldering. Couldn't really get into it, but repeated a few whites. 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
S - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Run, 8k, (but I walked about 3k of it) very gentle pace, testing out knee. Feels ok at the moment, but we'll see tonight and tomorrow.

71 kg
2022 plank total 204 min

[shark]

Thanks Duma


M. Kerameikos archeological site.

T. Beach.

W. Day National Archeological Museum

Eve Gym 2hours Supinated and pronated one arm locks. French pull ups including in L sit position Variety of stretching, mobility and core exercises. Recruitment pulls on Wedge.

Late night outdoor film

T. Admin. Pool. Airport. Late flight. Home early AM.

F. Wiped out.

S. AM Felt like shit. Home warm up. Fingers seemed strong enough but still felt like shit. Tried a fast pull-up and couldn’t get chest to bar. Binned going climbing. Went back to bed. Got up late AM and took a COVID test but negative. Felt out of sorts all day
Eve Down to Coventry for rugby sevens

S. AM woke up feeling good and warm up went well. Tor. Warm, humid, drizzly, greasy. Expected it to be busy. Only Darren and Kev there - later joined by Richard Davies so average age was 57 at the crag! Did cross thru at second attempt. Several goes to get my eye in on throw. When eventually got it properly then climbed solidly through to cross thru to very nearly getting the pinch - for once not fighting on the cross thru. Stopped strong.


The 12 day break from climbing and the three gym sessions whilst in Athens working on core and lock strength looks to have done me some good. Delighted to get so close to linking the crux section of Bens without suffering from power fade especially in such meh conditions. Hopefully I’ll be able to build on that.

[SA Chris]

Been a while, need to get back to PC reporting

M - first run in cool weather for ages. managed a 4:58 mpk pace for 11 k with a bit of vert. later in evening crouched down and knee went crunch. possibly related. Stayed off board, did some light fingerboarding instead.
T - sore knee, not much done, a bit of light lifting
W - 10 pin with work, sucked as usual. I think being left handed and left footed puts me at a natural disadvantage. My excuse anyway.
T - not much
F - kick about with son, knee felt OK.
S - first wall session for ages. Didn't expect much but actually did OK, and finished with some foot on campussing. Did a load of dumbell flies in the evening.
S - family walk - Lochnagar - warm and breezy, which was good, as midges were relentless any time breeze dropped. good day out, kids did well. 20 km, 5 and a half hours moving time (lots of breaks though)

[mr chaz]

Checking back in...

Missed a few weeks, which included the following: a family trip to the Lakes (not climbing), friend's wedding and then a spell of Covid... just about getting back on track now.

M. WFH - very mild covid symptoms
T. WFH - very mild covid symptoms
W. WFH
T. WFH - feeling back to normal. Had a short but very normal feeling board session in the evening.
F.
S. Afternoon session. Warmed up then did 3 max hangs on each arm, felt surprisingly good. Board session trying limit boulders. Was really pleased to climb a short term project using only bad wooden feet and a crux pulling off a really powerful undercut for the left hand (c. 1 year since bicep injury  ).
S.

Got a day pass for climbing on Saturday, last outdoor climbing was end of May - if it rains you'll find me loving life in the back of cave.

[Wellsy]

Monday - In London

Tuesday - Went for a board session. Did not feel good, despite two days of rest. Lack of sleep maybe?

Wednesday - indoor session. Still didn't feel good, basically did nothing of worth

Thursday - Stupidly decided to fingerboard, as was feeling disheartened. Did 30kgs on the 20mm for 10 seconds a couple of times then failed to get beyond 8 seconds for the remaining 6 reps. Obviously tired and weak, should have rested, ended up just thinking about how my fingers have gone backwards.

Friday - rested

Saturday - Flashed a bunch of stuff, did my long running board project(!!!!!), felt really strong. Climbing is stupid. 3 sets of 5 weighted pullups at 25kgs added.

Sunday - light session of climbing, just a mess about with mates. Benched up to 90kgs, didn't do 95kgs, again largely messing around with friends.

Weight: unknown
Psyche: for training yes, for outdoor climbing, eh. Not super bothered at the moment. Vaguely exasperated by the all consuming nature of it with regards to some people I know.

One month entirely sober, though, which feels very good, quite proud

[Nutty]

Haven't posted in PC for a long while, various injuries stopped me doing much of anything for a while. Currently recovering from a combined hip adductor (groin) and lower abdominal injury, but starting to get back in the swing of things now.

Monday - Rest

Tuesday - 5.6km run @4:17/km pace. Two laps of the local park. Third time running this distance since my injury, building up the distance slowly but feeling pretty good about running it at a fair pace. Only feel the groin on steeper downhill parts. Physio exercises post-run.

Wednesday - Wall session. Ancap on the circuit wall.

Thursday - Physio exercises

Friday - Rest

Saturday - Decided to do the local park run as 5km is about my distance at the minute. Managed it in 20:10 which I was pretty pleased with considering. Short walk with the family in the afternoon.

Sunday - Board session on the home board. Taking it steady with these at the moment. Did 9 warm-up problems and had a play about on one of my endurance problems to see where I'm at - struggled to remember my foot sequence at first which didn't help, but in the end was fairly happy. Nowhere near doing the problem, but I wasn't having the total disconnect between my feet and hands that I was feeling previously with the abdominal weakness.

Pretty good week that's had me feeling a lot happier about how my injuries are progressing. Running generally feels ok over the short distances I've been doing so will keep slowly building up the distance. Still taking things steady climbing wise. Need to keep on track with the physio - should have done another set of physio exercises this week.

[James Malloch]

M. Acro in the evening. Planned to Boulder at kilnsey but was up on the board didn’t go well (shoulder felt really sore for some reason) so just had a chilled day.

T. Packed van up to leave again. Took longer than expected and was tired. So stayed home an extra day.

W. Chapel Head Scar - tried a top 50 6c but didn’t really get how it climbed (suppose to be around some wobbly old tree) so used the stick clip. Repeated Witherslack Alice 6c and had a bolt to bolt on Super Duper DuPont 7c. The latter was great but felt hard. No time for a RP.

T. Visiting family for the day.

F. Back to Chapel Head. Went bolt to bolt to put the draws in. Refined some beta. Went for a RP but didn’t manage the rockover to get into the scoop. Left shoulder felt really tired. Did from there to halfway through top crux, and then top crux to chains. Feels like if I get through the bottom crux then it could/should go. Think I just need to start the move a bit more dynamic to start the rockover movement. Drove to Sheffield.

S. Walk around some reservoir near Sheffield. Board session in the evening.

S. Walked along Stanage, to Redmires and then back to Sheffield via Bell Hagg. Nice day out.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing. Singles on new project.
Tue - garage session 3.
Wed - one armers, back training: TBDL good mornings 100 kg, static holds 1' 110 kg x3.
Thu - tired. Board climbing. Ut supra.
Fri - high pulls x5, overhead carry 45" x8 50 kg.
Sat - weights.
Sun - EMOM boxing bag.

[Coops_13]

M:Density hangs 40lb HC 40s *4sets. Core. Leg tucks X12, Oblique crunch X12, Back arch X12. *3sets. Lower body stretching. 50 press-ups

T: G1. Legs. Squats 175lb X5 *5. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *3. RDLs 65lb X2 X5 *3sets. 10 mins Stairmaster level 9

W: Lincoln Lake after work. Very humid and stormy. Rock not feeling good. Had a play and did a load of moves on Tangerine Man before moving onto the Commoner V5. Almost flashed then took about 4 more goes to send

T: G1. Kilterboard 40deg volume. 2 V3, 3 V4, 12 V5 (including 11 at 6C+). A couple of boulders on the wall to cool down

F:60 press-ups

S: Lower Chaos. Tour for visiting UK mates. Warmed up and retro flashed Autobot V5 and Tommy's Arete V7, psyched! Had a play on GB Arete V8++. Finished the day doing Geeks of the Industry V6

[duncan]

Thanks Duma

Welcome back those rejoining.

M - Walked 11km
T - Shoulders conditioning. Walked 7km.
W - Fingerboard warm-up: a couple of hangs each on a variety of grips and hold sizes down to 3 finger drag on 18mm edge. Westway Short Endurance, 3 routes x 2 sets. A short session to leave some energy for the weekend.
T - 12km walk.
F - Up to N Wales to meet Iain. A slow drive not helped by the weather forecast deteriorating by the hour.
S - Woke to dire weather in Anglesey. Relocated to Llandudno where it was rather better. Warmed-up on a couple of the retro-bolted routes on St Tudno’s then did Limestone Lemur. Not a gimme for E2.  Silently decided Gritstone Gorilla might be a bit much. Checked-out Parisella’s Cave. Surprisingly deserted, it seemed the ideal venue on such a day. Less surprisingly my first visit, hard to think of anywhere more my anti-style. I tried hanging on to bits of Left Wall. Gulp. Then it started raining again.
S - Rhoscolyn; lovely weather and a drying crag. Started with Savage Sunbird (excellent), followed Iain up Mask of Red Death (excellent), and led The Sun (excellent of course). Last time here I’d shied away from doing The Sun as it was my first day of the year trad. climbing and I had an audience of peers. This year I was well warmed-up, the crag was deserted, and I shot up it. Very satisfying.
Bonus Monday - Carreg Wastad with Iain. I’m pretty sure this is my first visit since 1976. Since you look up at it every time you go up and down The Pass it feels very familiar but I've nothing recorded since doing Wrinkle on my first ever day of formal climbing.  Did Erosion Groove Direct, an obvious gap in my Brown and Whillans palmares. The first two pitches are losing the battle with vegetation but the top one is still a lot of fun. I have a vague idea this was once considered the hardest route in The Pass. The crux would have been desperate with 1955 footwear and gear and is a great riposte to people who think Whillans was just a thug. Iain then led me up the first pitch of Zangorilla, which makes a really good E3 6a. Will have to come back when I feel up to the exciting-looking top pitch. Decided to call it a day after this as I had run out of gas, the drizzle started about an hour later so didn't feel too guilty.

Great trip to N Wales despite the mixed and rapidly changing weather. Looking at the forecast on Thursday evening it would have been very easy to not bother. As usual, if you turn up you can nearly always get something done. Two more new crags too.

Battered this morning, I’m going to need at least a couple of days rest.

[andy popp]

Tues - Sat, cycle and swim routine (11km round trip plus about 20 mintues in the water) every morning. In fact, I've now done this 19 of the last 23 days. I comfortably wore a shirt at the weekend that was definitely too snug a couple of months ago, which felt good.

I'm keen to keep this going as long as possible, though the frequency will drop significantly when term starts again and as the mornings get too dark to go early (and the water gets colder).

[petejh]

S - Woke to dire weather in Anglesey. Relocated to Llandudno where it was rather better. Warmed-up on a couple of the retro-bolted routes on St Tudno’s then did Limestone Lemur. Not a gimme for E2.  Silently decided Gritstone Gorilla might be a bit much. Checked-out Parisella’s Cave. Surprisingly deserted, it seemed the ideal venue on such a day. Less surprisingly my first visit, hard to think of anywhere more my anti-style. I tried hanging on to bits of Left Wall. Gulp. Then it started raining again.

If you're ever looking for options on NW Limestone again on a bad weather day, the trad on the crag opposite St Tudno's (The Teal, etc.) is good. And the sport routes around the corner on the front of the Hornby crags are definitely worthwhile and get lots of sun from mid-afternoon. Craig y Don Upper has a good E1 (Hydro). And obvs Craig y Forwyn as the best option for limestone trad in the area with loads in the HVS - E3 range.

[SA Chris]

the water gets colder

wetsuit! Even a very thin one makes a world of difference.

[duncan]

S - Woke to dire weather in Anglesey. Relocated to Llandudno where it was rather better. Warmed-up on a couple of the retro-bolted routes on St Tudno’s then did Limestone Lemur. Not a gimme for E2.  Silently decided Gritstone Gorilla might be a bit much. Checked-out Parisella’s Cave. Surprisingly deserted, it seemed the ideal venue on such a day. Less surprisingly my first visit, hard to think of anywhere more my anti-style. I tried hanging on to bits of Left Wall. Gulp. Then it started raining again.

If you're ever looking for options on NW Limestone again on a bad weather day, the trad on the crag opposite St Tudno's (The Teal, etc.) is good. And the sport routes around the corner on the front of the Hornby crags are definitely worthwhile and get lots of sun from mid-afternoon. Craig y Don Upper has a good E1 (Hydro). And obvs Craig y Forwyn as the best option for limestone trad in the area with loads in the HVS - E3 range.

Thanks Pete, noted. I'm not sure why we chose St Tudno's over The Teal despite having your excellent guidebook. The power of a route name recognition and dim recollections of the old Paul Williams perhaps?

[andy popp]

the water gets colder

wetsuit! Even a very thin one makes a world of difference.

I knew someone (i.e. you) was going to say this.

[SA Chris]

Only time i get in the water without one is on holiday in the Canaries.

[Aussiegav]

Have I healed club?

Monday -
45 min peloton ride in early morning
Went to Climbing Works after lunch with the youngest. He was keen to see how he would go on the comp climbs again without the worry. Plus I wanted to climb with him. It was a really great session. He did all the problems he did from the comp first try and got higher on one of harder ones than he tried on the day. He did a few grade 4/5s and nearly did two 5+’s. But was tired at the end of the session
I managed to do around 15 problems and flashed a few 6a+s. All felt good with the finger & knee


Tuesday

Went to Awesome Walls after work. Another session on the autos, using a short rope to clip draws. This is really effective and allows me to get used to clipping when pumped.
Warmed up on a 5a+, 5b+, 6a+, 6b+. Pleased to do the 6b+ first go.

Main set 4x4s on routes. 6a+,5a+,6a+,5a+.
I managed all 4 sets. I don’t think I could do 3x6a+ in a set yet.

Wednesday -
Rest day

Thursday -
45 min peloton ride


Friday -
Finger rehab.
Low pain repeater session at home.
Managed to half crimp & open hand 20kg.
Added middle 2 open hand into the session at 10kg. These felt very intense
45 min Peloton ride

Saturday -
Rest day

Sunday.
Awesome Walls
Warmed up on the speed wall autos.
5a+,6a+,6b+.
Took 5min rest.
Main set 4x3s. 6b+,5a+, 6a+. 15min rests.
This was a really hard session. Enjoyed it. Finger felt tired afterwards.

[User deactivated.]

Late entry.

T - Max hangs after a few months of just density hangs. 6 sets on lattice edge +25kg.
2 hours unstructured board climbing in the evening followed by 30 min mobility work.

W - pull ups +60kg for 2 sets of 2, power pull ups at bodyweight, ring dips +40kg for 4 sets of 5, 3 sets of core circuit: 30s superman plank, 30s L-sit, 30s side plank +30kg

T - 1 hour loaded side split work and hip flexibility

F - 6 sets max hangs on lattice edge +27.5kg
Evening board session: 30 min focusing on big, explosive moves between good holds then 30 min on limit moves.
Nordic curls and 30 min mobility work.

S - 1 hour mobility work

S - Sacked off climbing due to poor weather and did more max hangs. 6 sets on lattice edge +35kg. Recruitment ramping up nicely.

[Aussiegav]

Late entry.

T - Max hangs after a few months of just density hangs. 6 sets on lattice edge +25kg.

I’ll be very interested in reading ongoing entries on the impact density hangs has for you.

[User deactivated.]

Late entry.

T - Max hangs after a few months of just density hangs. 6 sets on lattice edge +25kg.

I’ll be very interested in reading ongoing entries on the impact density hangs has for you.

Hopefully my post was clear but I've now finished density hangs and back on max hangs for a while. For the avoidance of doubt, the +25kg, +27.5kg and +35kg added weights last week were for 5 second hangs not 30! Yes my fingers really are that weak (relative to my goals) in half crimp!