UKBouldering.com

First 8C+ in UK? Isles of Wonder SS (Read 19056 times)

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8786
  • Karma: +651/-18
  • insect overlord #1
First 8C+ in UK? Isles of Wonder SS
July 29, 2022, 10:53:37 am
www.instagram.com/p/Cgj_Pp2D8SM/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

As reported on Aidanwad thread - but deserves a thread of its own - Aidan Roberts has now done Isles of Wonder sit 8C+ at Ogwen which is the first boulder problem to be given 8C+ in the UK.

Some footage of his attempts on it last year here at 6.04:



« Last Edit: July 29, 2022, 11:04:47 am by shark »

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1574
  • Karma: +120/-11
Pretty incredible achievement, I can't wait to see the footage

Feels like at his young age he's only just getting started too

CapitalistPunter

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 145
  • Karma: +23/-15
www.instagram.com/p/Cgj_Pp2D8SM/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

As reported on Aidanwad thread - but deserves a thread of its own - Aidan Roberts has now done Isles of Wonder sit 8C+ at Ogwen which is the first boulder problem to be given 8C+ in the UK.

Some footage of his attempts on it last year here at 6.04:



Wasnt Superpowers given 8C+? Its the grade given in World Class film.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3091
  • Karma: +164/-1
I think Aiden said 8C originally. Jack palmeri (who'd seen Aidan trying it?) then put a fairly convincing post on here basically saying "like shit is it 8C, 8C+ all day long". If it says 8C+ in world class I guess Sam and Aidan probably had a chat about it too and decided 8C+ wasn't too far off the mark.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2879
  • Karma: +136/-3
He says 8C/+ in his original Insta post.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFKXsP7jEM3/

jwi

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4342
  • Karma: +337/-1
  • Distorting facts posted on instagram
    • On Steep Ground
Amazing! Very cool.

Regarding Superpowers, upgrades in the media is a US thing. Keep it out of Europe.

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1574
  • Karma: +120/-11
Anyone got a link to Palmieri's post about it here? I'm curious

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2879
  • Karma: +136/-3
More important than the grade in my view is that Isles is a much better line than Superpowers. I mean what a beautiful, pure thing. Bouldering at its absolute best. Surely it should go straight on the radar of some foreign folk to come have a go.

Not that Superpowers isn't really cool, but it certainly has some minus points to it (bad landing, close proximity of rocks behind your back, slightly wandering top out, SHARP holds, etc.), such that it'd be easy to forgive if people aren't all that psyched for it.

CapitalistPunter

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 145
  • Karma: +23/-15
More important than the grade in my view is that Isles is a much better line than Superpowers. I mean what a beautiful, pure thing. Bouldering at its absolute best. Surely it should go straight on the radar of some foreign folk to come have a go.

Not that Superpowers isn't really cool, but it certainly has some minus points to it (bad landing, close proximity of rocks behind your back, slightly wandering top out, SHARP holds, etc.), such that it'd be easy to forgive if people aren't all that psyched for it.

The long approach isnt super appealing either.

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3091
  • Karma: +164/-1
Anyone got a link to Palmieri's post about it here? I'm curious

Quote
If Superpowers isn’t 8C+ then you can remove me from the list as I haven’t climbed 8B yet. To think of that thing as just one grade harder than benchmark stuff like bewilderness is crazy. Just don’t see how it could get repeated. Woods is busy in the states getting schooled on something Aidan put up in a few hours over 2 very hot sessions.

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26074.msg618619.html#msg618619

Wellsy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1574
  • Karma: +120/-11
Interesting. Yet more fuel for the "upper end of UK grading being funky" fire

Carliios

  • Guest
Incredible achievement from Aidan, truly next level. Excited to see what comes of the super hard project at Badger Cove next, looked at the holds when we went to film Blackwell on Bewilderness and it truly looked conceptual. Couldn't really fathom any sort of sequence through it but then again I think you'd need to operate at the 8C+ level to really visualise it.

Could this be the end of the terrible grade compression in the UK? Hopefully we start to see a spate of harder lines put up by the Aidans and Wills of the world and we can start moving away from the terrible grading issues we've seen in the last two decades.

Carliios

  • Guest
Excited to see what comes of the super hard project at Badger Cove next, looked at the holds when we went to film Blackwell on Bewilderness and it truly looked conceptual. Couldn't really fathom any sort of sequence through it but then again I think you'd need to operate at the 8C+ level to really visualise it.

Speaking of…

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cgor_W9D3Nt/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Fiend

Online
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13665
  • Karma: +694/-68
  • Whut
 :strongbench:  :dance1:

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2879
  • Karma: +136/-3
Excited to see what comes of the super hard project at Badger Cove next, looked at the holds when we went to film Blackwell on Bewilderness and it truly looked conceptual. Couldn't really fathom any sort of sequence through it but then again I think you'd need to operate at the 8C+ level to really visualise it.

Speaking of…

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cgor_W9D3Nt/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Assuming this is the same problem as Aidan mentions in the recent Wedge board vid, surprised one of them hasn't declared it a closed project yet  :-\ ;D

turnipturned

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 721
  • Karma: +108/-1
What’s awesome about Isles of Wonder Sit is they are all pretty big holds (relatively), nothing really tweaky or sharp.   Guess that’s pretty rare on top end stuff. Arguably quite different in style to Aidan other hard problems in the UK. Those body positions are pretty crazy, you would get a dead right shoulder after about 3 goes. Best hard boulder in the UK by a long way.

Carliios

  • Guest
Excited to see what comes of the super hard project at Badger Cove next, looked at the holds when we went to film Blackwell on Bewilderness and it truly looked conceptual. Couldn't really fathom any sort of sequence through it but then again I think you'd need to operate at the 8C+ level to really visualise it.

Speaking of…

https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cgor_W9D3Nt/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Assuming this is the same problem as Aidan mentions in the recent Wedge board vid, surprised one of them hasn't declared it a closed project yet  :-\ ;D

Haha you troll bradders! No need to declare it a closed project when no one can do it but him  :tease: but yeah it is the same project they talked about in the wedge video!

CapitalistPunter

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 145
  • Karma: +23/-15
Only linkups can be closed projects!

Will Hunt

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Superworm is super-long
  • Posts: 8157
  • Karma: +654/-121
    • Unknown Stones
Nick, does this mean that the Calf link isn't closed? Ben's looking for a project.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2879
  • Karma: +136/-3
Hoist by my own petard  ::)

Anyway I am reliably informed that what Will is trying there is actually a different problem to Aidan's project / replica.

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2879
  • Karma: +136/-3
Back on topic, are there any established 8Cs in Wales? I can't think of any. Lots of 8B+s in the Parisellas and a few others elsewhere, but no 8Cs?

CapitalistPunter

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 145
  • Karma: +23/-15
Back on topic, are there any established 8Cs in Wales? I can't think of any. Lots of 8B+s in the Parisellas and a few others elsewhere, but no 8Cs?

To my knowledge the only 8C in wales is The Origin Sit from Eliot Stephens.

Great little video for it.


Carliios

  • Guest
Back on topic, are there any established 8Cs in Wales? I can't think of any. Lots of 8B+s in the Parisellas and a few others elsewhere, but no 8Cs?

The Origin Sit is 8C isn’t it?

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2879
  • Karma: +136/-3
Good knowledge, ta.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal