[James Malloch]

It would be nice to try an 8a sometime and see how one feels. I’ve never looked for one so I’ve no idea on what would be good. Therefore any recommendations would be welcomed!

Requirements for me would be:

-Fairly short (or longer with a good amount of easier climbing).

-I think Cruxy is better. If it’s at the bottom with an easier romp that’s great, or a higher crux with a good rest before it.

-Vert crimpy wall climbing would be ideal. Or mainly vert with some short bulge sections / something not very steep.

-On the above, I don’t mind steep if it was something like The Green Alternative (steep but basically a Boulder), but something more vert is preferred. The 7c’s I’ve done locally are Smouldering Globules of Lust (Trollers Gill) - hard Boulder and then very easy to the top, and Staying Power (Yew Cogar) - bit cruxy but an okay rest before the finish. Others in Frankenjura were very vertical, crimpy, balancey climbing.

-Some decent 6c/7a of a similar style on the same wall.

-Dog friendly crag. So not next to a road and no big drops as he will al most certainly chase his ball off one.

I’m not too fussed about the location as we have van to travel around in and no real plans at the moment. Probably not right down South though. If there’s a couple of options at the same crag then that’s even better!

Any recommendations would much appreciated!

[Steve R]

Powerplant just about ticks all your boxes I think.

[Bradders]

Subculture

[Kingy]

Complete Control at Kilnsey

[remus]

Call of Nature at the tor would be worth a look. It's not over after the crux but does get progressively easier pretty quickly. Definitely ticks the vert crimpy wall climbing box.

[James Malloch]

Complete Control at Kilnsey

Cheers, Ted. How is this from the WYSIWYG chains? I found that route fine 5 years ago so think it should be fairly easy now…

[Paul B]

There's a very good rest above WYSIWYG and then you've got a stern few pulls revolving around a less than generous sidepull followed by easier but dropable moves to the finish.

Personally it wouldn't be top of my list of recommendations simply due to how congested the start gets.

Isn't there one that really appeals to you? There are some cracking lines at that grade. Despite all appearances to the contrary the Spider also fits the bill and it's an incredible position.

[Wood FT]

Call of Nature at the tor would be worth a look. It's not over after the crux but does get progressively easier pretty quickly. Definitely ticks the vert crimpy wall climbing box.

+1

[Andy F]

Call of Nature at the tor would be worth a look. It's not over after the crux but does get progressively easier pretty quickly. Definitely ticks the vert crimpy wall climbing box.

Agreed. Also Main Overhang and New Age Traveller (if it still gets 8a) on Malham Upper Tier.
Le Lapin and Cold Steal at Kilnsey could also fit the bill.

[abarro81]

Cruxy, fingery, vert... Basically 90% of UK sport surely!

[Will Hunt]

I was mentally ticking off all the criteria with Main Overhang until it got to the dog bit. Tie up the dog?

[Andy F]

I was mentally ticking off all the criteria with Main Overhang until it got to the dog bit. Tie up the dog?

Oops! Maybe not upper tier then 

[Ru]

Tribes/Dangerous Bros/Sissy at Rubicon. I mean, they're not that nice, but short, vert, crimpy, cruxy 8as generally aren't that nice.

[Kingy]

Cheers, Ted. How is this from the WYSIWYG chains? I found that route fine 5 years ago so think it should be fairly easy now…

As Paul says, its pretty cruxy and the hardest bit is about V6 as a boulder problem with a small intro and outro section to it as well. climbs really nicely. Right hand side of kilnsey was v quiet
on sat so Im told...

[mark20]

From a dog perspective
Raven Tor - ok if your dog isn't stupid enough to run into the road
The Spider at Cheedale is above a sensitive slope so maybe not best having a crazed dog chasing balls up and down it all day
Rubicon - potential for dog to kill the Rubicon cat, but since this happened last year, now OK 
Malham - best tie it up, but they tend to splash OK apparently
Cheedale Cornice - good shout if your dog is OK with lots of people walking past

I'd also suggest The Fall or Hard Torque at Lammergeyer, 5 mins past Rubicon. Shadier, reliably dry, short fingery routes.

Another option would be A Bit of Nookie at Cheedale Nook. Feels like a long 7B/+ boulder problem on reasonable holds. Nice flat crag base and quieter than the Cornice, so better for dogs IMO. If you struggle to find belayer just say you have a project at the Cornice and run back and forth between the crags, only 1 min away.

Or an even more leftfield suggestion, the bouldery routes at Tideswell Dale. Pretty Peggy-O and Wye Bird, both soft 8a,  7B/+ boulder problems. All My Pegs 8a felt desperate to me. Ok for dogs and a nice walk down the valley between goes

[andy popp]

Powerplant just about ticks all your boxes I think.

Or Unleashing, or Boobs (even more dog friendly?).

[shark]

All crags are dog friendly if you tie them up which is what I do these days having seen one of mine jump off the catwalk (amazingly without injury). Also it’s apparent from forum chat that bizarrely not everyone is a dog lover and doesn’t appreciate unleashed dogs. I’ve come round to seeing it as good practice to always tie them up when climbing. BTW I’ve made plenty of mistakes with dogs in the countryside so not preaching.

Unleashing is a good call 😉

[moose]

Having a look at what's available at Kilnsey seems like a decent option.  Lots of choice and fairly reliable - generally dry from Spring to Autumn.  Still / humid conditions can near rule-out success on some routes but you can still have a worthwhile day's work, prepping for a day with a northerly.  I personally wouldn't get set on a particular route based on advance notions of criteria - just see what inspires.  A few ideas though:

Subculture - short power-endurance, a decent shake-out, then a 7b'ish plod.
The Bulge - easy but awkward (6b+?), good rest, then a techy 7b+, shake out, then a F6c'ish boulder to finish.
Cold Steal - very techy and conditions dependent extended boulder problem, very good rest, techy 7b+'ish wall climb to finish.
The Thumb - hard sections at the start and end, but split by a hands-off knee-bar (style isn't the point really - do it for "the line"). 

Re Complete Control - I thought it was okay but not a classic.  I always liked repeating Wysiwyg but waiting your turn can be a faff - and I thought the crux boulder was a bit pokey and unpleasant.  Also, unless it's been rebolted, the head wall to the finish is pretty run-out (people working it used to always have a krab on a long sling hanging from the belay). 

[remus]

A couple that are a bit more towards the power endurance end but definitely fit the vert crimping criteria: Ouijaboard at the Cornice and Aberration at Two Tier.

[andy popp]

All crags are dog friendly if you tie them up

Well, yes. Dogs should always be tied up at the crag. In this instance I was thinking of the dog - a lot of the base of the Cornice would be a pretty miserable place to be tied up I would have thought. Bizarrely, I don't like dogs since one bit me in an unprovoked attack.

[spidermonkey09]

That criteria gives you loads of options as long as you tie the dog up. As barrows said you are in the right country for short cruxy routes! There's a handy tree on the upper tier for securing dogs to.l but he might have to have an afternoon off the ball for obvious reasons. Ditto at the cornice.

[MischaHY]

I'd agree with Paul, the Spider is remarkably approachable - although I never actually managed it when I was still living in the UK (2016), I was getting close despite being very weak and at the time having only climbed one 7c. It breaks down to a short 7a section up a slab and along on some jugs followed by a good shake and then a 7A+ boulder problem. After this you stand hands free looking outwards into the valley (amazing position) and then climb 7bish to the top on lovely moves. It's totally class.

[Paul B]

I had the added fun of an E1 leader who had dropped their wires shaking their way across to my rest and clipping into the bolt and sitting on it during my redpoint.

I'd find a route that inspires you more beyond Name, 8a.

[James Malloch]

There's a very good rest above WYSIWYG and then you've got a stern few pulls revolving around a less than generous sidepull followed by easier but dropable moves to the finish.

Personally it wouldn't be top of my list of recommendations simply due to how congested the start gets.

Isn't there one that really appeals to you? There are some cracking lines at that grade. Despite all appearances to the contrary the Spider also fits the bill and it's an incredible position.

Thanks, Paul (and Ted) for the extra info on this. It’s one I would be keen to try as I really like WYSIWYG. But as it’s 20 mins from home and we’re in the van it’s one to save for the times we’re popping back to Skipton.

In terms of appeal, the only ones I’ve really thought about in the past are:

Little Plum
The Prow
Statement of Youth
The Groove (8a+ though)

So mainly some from Ben/Jerry/Ron’s books, which I loved, rather than actually looking at what’s available. But that’s only because I’ve never actually thought about or looked at 8a’s. It’s only now, that I feel the right one could go reasonably fast (2-3 sessions maybe), that I could imagine trying one (I’m not into long projects).

[Johnny Brown]

-Vert crimpy wall climbing would be ideal. Or mainly vert with some short bulge sections / something not very steep.

Ogre, Chee Tor. Ticks all your boxes as well as being in a really nice spot where your dog won't be bothered by the hordes. 15m of vert crimping with a tricky bulge crux with rests below and above. White Gold next door for warm up, or go to the Cornice first. It is slow to dry (but will be bone now), and is in the shade til mid afternoon. Almost all good moves, the only sharp hold is the crux. None of it is easy though.

I went on many of the Peak lime 8a before I found one that didn't disgust me. All the others I've tried boiled down to some grim move off a ratty edge. Most threw in a total lack of line, poor rock quality, glued holds, polished feet, chipped/ drilled holds, a dusty busy climbing wall atmosphere and a general lack of any aesthetic quality whatsoever. The Ogre keeps all of this to a minimum, and as a bonus there are lots of great trad routes nearby.

[Fiend]

I've missed a good ol' JB slagging off Peak Lime post 

[James Malloch]

I’ll have a proper look through the other recommendations later, but thanks for everything so far! Some great looking routes, and the Spider looks pretty awesome - I’d definitely be keen to try that, though the length is intimidating!

Dog wise - I prefer having our dog off lead (responsibly). We’ve only had to put him on once or twice in the last 4 months of climbing. Happy to have him on but it’s much less stressful having him free. I generally try to avoid places where he can’t be safely off as it’s not enjoyable to me. But I think I am about as responsible in terms of judging what’s okay.

[Paul B]

Dog wise - I prefer having our dog off lead (responsibly). We’ve only had to put him on once or twice in the last 4 months of climbing. Happy to have him on but it’s much less stressful having him free. I generally try to avoid places where he can’t be safely off as it’s not enjoyable to me. But I think I am about as responsible in terms of judging what’s okay.

It gets discussed annually at Kilnsey but during nesting season they should be on lead regardless. People also get upset when belaying down the bank and walking through dog  (rightly so). It's never been a problem for me as my dog is so lazy once at the crag I can't make her walk from north buttress to south. In fact I've even struggled to get her to leave before!

I know it's given 8a+ and doesn't fit with your initial request but IMO Mandela earns the + from the (fine) position. It's essentially a boulder problem in the sky.

Ignore Johnny's "mud and undercuts" vibe, the movement at Cheedale Cornice is fantastic although he has a fair point about the Ogre.

[remus]

There's a very good rest above WYSIWYG and then you've got a stern few pulls revolving around a less than generous sidepull followed by easier but dropable moves to the finish.

Personally it wouldn't be top of my list of recommendations simply due to how congested the start gets.

Isn't there one that really appeals to you? There are some cracking lines at that grade. Despite all appearances to the contrary the Spider also fits the bill and it's an incredible position.

In terms of appeal, the only ones I’ve really thought about in the past are:

Little Plum
...

Little plum fits a lot of your criteria other than being dog friendly. It's pretty morpho too, which might be a good thing if you've got some length.

[James Malloch]

There's a very good rest above WYSIWYG and then you've got a stern few pulls revolving around a less than generous sidepull followed by easier but dropable moves to the finish.

Personally it wouldn't be top of my list of recommendations simply due to how congested the start gets.

Isn't there one that really appeals to you? There are some cracking lines at that grade. Despite all appearances to the contrary the Spider also fits the bill and it's an incredible position.

In terms of appeal, the only ones I’ve really thought about in the past are:

Little Plum
...

Little plum fits a lot of your criteria other than being dog friendly. It's pretty morpho too, which might be a good thing if you've got some length.

I’ve got plenty of reach 

[Johnny Brown]

Ogre is easier for the tall too.

[RobK]

You've pretty much perfectly described Dinbren. Take your pick from Highway, Elite Syncopations, or El Rincon depending if you want low, middle, or high in the grade.

[James Malloch]

Ogre is easier for the tall too.

Visiting a friend this week who’s keen to try this. So that’s the plan for the first one, unless there’s anything good at chapel head to try this week when in the area…

[Sarnian]

These don’t fit your boulder vert criteria but to make some non Yorkshire suggestions for you James. I could see you liking Statement, also muscle beach at Lpt is a really good Power endurance route. Vennerne at shipwreck cove is amazing, and a really beautiful spot on a beach. It should be great for Freddie. The tides are a faff but seeing as you’re on holiday mode I think you’d be enjoy both those places in the van. Palace of swords at foxhole is great too, quite short and bouldery on a bit more Spanish style limestone than the normal uk stuff. Not sure if foxhole is a sun trap or not though.

[remus]

Not sure if foxhole is a sun trap or not though.

Foxhole is definitely a sun trap, great for early/late season sport though and some good 6c to 7b options.

[tim palmer]

I really enjoyed the free monster at WCJ cornice, no one has mentioned it but I thought it was great and not too high in the grade

[mr chaz]

Requirements for me would be:

-Vert crimpy wall climbing would be ideal. Or mainly vert with some short bulge sections / something not very steep.

I presumed this is why free monster wasn't mentioned

[Duncan campbell]

In reply to OP; you have absolutely buckets of time, also seem really strong.

My advice would be to flick through a load of guidebooks and pick a route or area that tickles your fancy and just find a route that you can get stuck into.

I know you said you don’t want to spend ages on a route but if you find a route you really enjoy trying (rather than just doing because it is an 8a that you can do quickly) you won’t get bored. Plus as you have bags of time you can do other routes/climbing around your project.

Maybe said route won’t be 8a.

Maybe it won’t be your style.

Maybe it will.

Hopefully it will be vastly more enjoyable and satisfying.

[tim palmer]

Requirements for me would be:

-Vert crimpy wall climbing would be ideal. Or mainly vert with some short bulge sections / something not very steep.

I presumed this is why free monster wasn't mentioned

Yes, I thought those criteria had been disposed of seeing as there had been a discussion of mandela,  the thumb, statement etc.

I think as an initiation to tricky sport climbing for a boulderer free monster is good,  quite short and punchy, the falls are fine once you have that little slabby bit at the start dialled.  Plus it is an enjoyable route in a nice place.

[Paul B]

Yes, I thought those criteria had been disposed of seeing as there had been a discussion of mandela,  the thumb, statement etc.

That's probably my fault for going off on a tangent regrading picking a route/line that's inspiring rather than anything that fits the grade  .

I'd agree it's a great route. I always enjoyed climbing at WCJ Cornice although a bit less so since the Monsal Trail opened.

[Andy F]

Ogre is easier for the tall too.

Visiting a friend this week who’s keen to try this. So that’s the plan for the first one, unless there’s anything good at chapel head to try this week when in the area…

Calling Mr Hall is probably the good 8a (from watching/belaying people), but do Super Duper Dupont as it's one of the best 7c's in the country

[James Malloch]

Ogre is easier for the tall too.

Visiting a friend this week who’s keen to try this. So that’s the plan for the first one, unless there’s anything good at chapel head to try this week when in the area…

Calling Mr Hall is probably the good 8a (from watching/belaying people), but do Super Duper Dupont as it's one of the best 7c's in the country

I have this a go at the end of today. It’s ana amazing route and hopefully I’ll give it a redpoint go on Friday.

The mantle at the end is likely to be a heartbreaker. I managed it but wasn’t overly confident in my sequence!