[Fiend]

I've missed a good ol' JB slagging off Peak Lime post 

[James Malloch]

I’ll have a proper look through the other recommendations later, but thanks for everything so far! Some great looking routes, and the Spider looks pretty awesome - I’d definitely be keen to try that, though the length is intimidating!

Dog wise - I prefer having our dog off lead (responsibly). We’ve only had to put him on once or twice in the last 4 months of climbing. Happy to have him on but it’s much less stressful having him free. I generally try to avoid places where he can’t be safely off as it’s not enjoyable to me. But I think I am about as responsible in terms of judging what’s okay.

[Paul B]

Dog wise - I prefer having our dog off lead (responsibly). We’ve only had to put him on once or twice in the last 4 months of climbing. Happy to have him on but it’s much less stressful having him free. I generally try to avoid places where he can’t be safely off as it’s not enjoyable to me. But I think I am about as responsible in terms of judging what’s okay.

It gets discussed annually at Kilnsey but during nesting season they should be on lead regardless. People also get upset when belaying down the bank and walking through dog  (rightly so). It's never been a problem for me as my dog is so lazy once at the crag I can't make her walk from north buttress to south. In fact I've even struggled to get her to leave before!

I know it's given 8a+ and doesn't fit with your initial request but IMO Mandela earns the + from the (fine) position. It's essentially a boulder problem in the sky.

Ignore Johnny's "mud and undercuts" vibe, the movement at Cheedale Cornice is fantastic although he has a fair point about the Ogre.

[remus]

There's a very good rest above WYSIWYG and then you've got a stern few pulls revolving around a less than generous sidepull followed by easier but dropable moves to the finish.

Personally it wouldn't be top of my list of recommendations simply due to how congested the start gets.

Isn't there one that really appeals to you? There are some cracking lines at that grade. Despite all appearances to the contrary the Spider also fits the bill and it's an incredible position.

In terms of appeal, the only ones I’ve really thought about in the past are:

Little Plum
...

Little plum fits a lot of your criteria other than being dog friendly. It's pretty morpho too, which might be a good thing if you've got some length.

[James Malloch]

There's a very good rest above WYSIWYG and then you've got a stern few pulls revolving around a less than generous sidepull followed by easier but dropable moves to the finish.

Personally it wouldn't be top of my list of recommendations simply due to how congested the start gets.

Isn't there one that really appeals to you? There are some cracking lines at that grade. Despite all appearances to the contrary the Spider also fits the bill and it's an incredible position.

In terms of appeal, the only ones I’ve really thought about in the past are:

Little Plum
...

Little plum fits a lot of your criteria other than being dog friendly. It's pretty morpho too, which might be a good thing if you've got some length.

I’ve got plenty of reach 

[Johnny Brown]

Ogre is easier for the tall too.

[RobK]

You've pretty much perfectly described Dinbren. Take your pick from Highway, Elite Syncopations, or El Rincon depending if you want low, middle, or high in the grade.

[James Malloch]

Ogre is easier for the tall too.

Visiting a friend this week who’s keen to try this. So that’s the plan for the first one, unless there’s anything good at chapel head to try this week when in the area…

[Sarnian]

These don’t fit your boulder vert criteria but to make some non Yorkshire suggestions for you James. I could see you liking Statement, also muscle beach at Lpt is a really good Power endurance route. Vennerne at shipwreck cove is amazing, and a really beautiful spot on a beach. It should be great for Freddie. The tides are a faff but seeing as you’re on holiday mode I think you’d be enjoy both those places in the van. Palace of swords at foxhole is great too, quite short and bouldery on a bit more Spanish style limestone than the normal uk stuff. Not sure if foxhole is a sun trap or not though.

[remus]

Not sure if foxhole is a sun trap or not though.

Foxhole is definitely a sun trap, great for early/late season sport though and some good 6c to 7b options.

[tim palmer]

I really enjoyed the free monster at WCJ cornice, no one has mentioned it but I thought it was great and not too high in the grade

[mr chaz]

Requirements for me would be:

-Vert crimpy wall climbing would be ideal. Or mainly vert with some short bulge sections / something not very steep.

I presumed this is why free monster wasn't mentioned

[Duncan campbell]

In reply to OP; you have absolutely buckets of time, also seem really strong.

My advice would be to flick through a load of guidebooks and pick a route or area that tickles your fancy and just find a route that you can get stuck into.

I know you said you don’t want to spend ages on a route but if you find a route you really enjoy trying (rather than just doing because it is an 8a that you can do quickly) you won’t get bored. Plus as you have bags of time you can do other routes/climbing around your project.

Maybe said route won’t be 8a.

Maybe it won’t be your style.

Maybe it will.

Hopefully it will be vastly more enjoyable and satisfying.

[tim palmer]

Requirements for me would be:

-Vert crimpy wall climbing would be ideal. Or mainly vert with some short bulge sections / something not very steep.

I presumed this is why free monster wasn't mentioned

Yes, I thought those criteria had been disposed of seeing as there had been a discussion of mandela,  the thumb, statement etc.

I think as an initiation to tricky sport climbing for a boulderer free monster is good,  quite short and punchy, the falls are fine once you have that little slabby bit at the start dialled.  Plus it is an enjoyable route in a nice place.

[Paul B]

Yes, I thought those criteria had been disposed of seeing as there had been a discussion of mandela,  the thumb, statement etc.

That's probably my fault for going off on a tangent regrading picking a route/line that's inspiring rather than anything that fits the grade  .

I'd agree it's a great route. I always enjoyed climbing at WCJ Cornice although a bit less so since the Monsal Trail opened.

[Andy F]

Ogre is easier for the tall too.

Visiting a friend this week who’s keen to try this. So that’s the plan for the first one, unless there’s anything good at chapel head to try this week when in the area…

Calling Mr Hall is probably the good 8a (from watching/belaying people), but do Super Duper Dupont as it's one of the best 7c's in the country

[James Malloch]

Ogre is easier for the tall too.

Visiting a friend this week who’s keen to try this. So that’s the plan for the first one, unless there’s anything good at chapel head to try this week when in the area…

Calling Mr Hall is probably the good 8a (from watching/belaying people), but do Super Duper Dupont as it's one of the best 7c's in the country

I have this a go at the end of today. It’s ana amazing route and hopefully I’ll give it a redpoint go on Friday.

The mantle at the end is likely to be a heartbreaker. I managed it but wasn’t overly confident in my sequence!