UKBouldering.com

Pocket Pinch / Metal Prow, 7B, Kilnsey (Read 1077 times)

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1690
  • Karma: +63/-1
Pocket Pinch / Metal Prow, 7B, Kilnsey
July 23, 2022, 05:52:54 pm
Does anyone know the Beta for these?

For Pocket Pinch I can’t work out if I go to the pocket (I’m assuming this is the obvious triangular one in the roof) with my left or right. Feels like it should be left, but then there’s no pinch aspect to it for me.

Then where do you go from there?

For Metal Prow, once you’ve got the obvious LH pocket, and the RH pocket/slot next to it, where do you go from there?

Both of these have me stumpt at the moment…

moose

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Lankenstein's Monster
  • Posts: 2933
  • Karma: +228/-1
  • el flaco lento
For Metal Prow, once you’ve got the obvious LH pocket, and the RH pocket/slot next to it, where do you go from there?

I vaguely recall turning the unpleasant LH pocket into an undercut and a long RH move to an agglomeration of high, slightly disappointing holds and then matching (there is something positive up there but it takes a bit of feeling around to find).

James Malloch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1690
  • Karma: +63/-1
For Metal Prow, once you’ve got the obvious LH pocket, and the RH pocket/slot next to it, where do you go from there?

I vaguely recall turning the unpleasant LH pocket into an undercut and a long RH move to an agglomeration of high, slightly disappointing holds and then matching (there is something positive up there but it takes a bit of feeling around to find).

Cheers, I’ll try that next time. There is another okay slot Higher up, but it’s hard to get there (only made it once) and I’m losing chunks of skin on each attempt.

Kind of have to work it ground up but each session I’ve had hasn’t unlocked the key!

Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2806
  • Karma: +135/-3
For Metal Prow, once you’ve got the obvious LH pocket, and the RH pocket/slot next to it, where do you go from there?

I vaguely recall turning the unpleasant LH pocket into an undercut and a long RH move to an agglomeration of high, slightly disappointing holds and then matching (there is something positive up there but it takes a bit of feeling around to find).

Yep that's it I think. I thought it finishes on jugs which you can use as a rest on Metal Guru?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal