[SamT]

Might be off to the Churnet on Wednesday (see other posts about partners etc).

I'm aware of some access issues and have had a bit of a trawl, but could do with a bit of a consice precis of where to avoid.

Also - bit of a hint for a first timer of where to head to get a load of good milage in.  I've got all day.
Mainly boulder in the 6s, and perhaps be able to get up a soft touch 7A.
Might be on my own, so highballs/bad landings are perhaps not order of the day. (see other thread re lifts partners).

Anyone got a guide I could borrow?? 

[RobinB]

Hi Sam - I've got a guide you're welcome to borrow. Unfortunately Wright's Rock is probably the best place to go for a first-time visit but I believe there are currently access issues. Can't remember the exact nature of the access issues but a quick Google should bring them up

[SamT]

So Wrights Rock seems to have been banned till 1st July, but then access is only Friday/Sat/Sunday - is that still correct?

[spidermonkey09]

Yes- only Friday Sat Sun.

[spidermonkey09]

Cottage Rocks is good for a first time visit.

[Carliios]

Yep, avoid wrights rock for now! In terms of good blocs to check out Amazing Tree Bulge is a great 6A, with a 6C alternating ending and there’s a fairly soft lowball 7A to the left called Tree-Mendous that’s worth checking out. Plus the bloc has a gigantic tree growing out of it, it’s pretty cool!

[steveri]

Cottage is a good shout, could combine with a few other bits nearby, Grasshopper, Audio, Sitting Start, Breathe, etc

[SamT]

Cheers all.. looks like I'll stack some pads in the boot and have a mossie.  Going to be too hot I reckon to really get anything done.  Any hints on shady spots.. UKc seems to say Cottage is one of the sunnier venues.   

[spidermonkey09]

Virgin Traverse is shady in the morning from what I recall and is fun if perplexing. Maybe more the venues in the woods; Farley?

[Carliios]

Amazing tree is in the shade all day long

[SamT]

 

[mr chaz]

I had an enjoyable day working my up the hill in Farley woods, plenty of 6s and 7s to go at. Start at the Discreet Block, then up to Amazing Tree boulder, Book of the Dead Block, Book of Thebes block and on and on... Take some insect repellent though

[Eddies]

What Mr Chaz said 
Wrights isnt a good option for someone whos climbing 6's and perhaps 7A on their own; you will have 'Alternative Three' then a very soft 7A 'Simple Simon Indirect' and that's about your lot.
All the best climbing their is either highball (brilliant 7A 'Fingers' or harder than 7A.

Your much better either going towards Cottage Rocks, or in Farley Woods.

[SamT]

Thanks guys - just grabbed a guide (cheers Robin  ) and looks like I'll be heading up to cottage rocks and beyond.

[sdm]

Gentleman's Rock is another option at those grades. Plenty of 6s and low 7s that are lowish or traverses and it's shady.

High Speed Imp Act 7A is the only one that is highish.

It's a 15 minute walk in from the Rambler's Retreat parking but in the opposite direction to Farley Woods. Could be combined into a circuit with either Cottage/Grasshopper/Bizarre etc (which will mostly be sunny) or Peakstone (park at Peakstone instead but Peakstone probably isn't the ideal area for a first-time love climber at/below 7A).

[CapitalistPunter]

Thanks guys - just grabbed a guide (cheers Robin  ) and looks like I'll be heading up to cottage rocks and beyond.

Enjoy your trip!

I second what Chaz said and had a similar day out a few days ago. The discreet block has Propellerhead, a 7A with really good moves on pebbles. Then at the Amazing Tree bloc there is Tree Mendous and a 7B link into it called Tree Bein. Bit of a softy
 

[SamT]

Superb day yesterday, thanks to all the info.

Went up to amazing tree first, thought I'd warm up on Bee block, but took a while to find it, very overgrown but did some snipping with the seceteurs I'd gladly brought along. Amazing Tree is well.... amazing.

Then over to Block of Thebes and finally the Book of the Dead.

Realised now just how weak I've gotten bumpling around on trad all summer.  By god the place is quite fierce on the fingers.  Barely a sloper or slab to be had.

Got up Prince of Thebes by the skin of my teeth and wanted to at least try Anubis, but was goosed by then.

Back to the beast maker for me.. 

Any tick marks are not mine btw, I brushed a few ridiculous lines off as best I could.  Also, the small pair of seceteurs I brought along were brill.  Did a bit of bramble snipping as I wandered around.

Tips for others would be a spanking rag/towel/t shirt  for blowing pine needles off the top outs.
Long trousers for wandering along nettle lined paths.