none of which sounds massively enjoyable.
As is often the case the answer is not totally simple.The crag is listed as Landowner Unknown on the RAD, but it is most likely owned by the Peak Park or National Trust. In previous discussions between NT and the fishermen regards a buttress on the same side of the river but nearer the Tor, the fishermen had no objection to climbing perse, they were just concerned about disturbance to fishing. For this reason the RAD suggests not crossing when fishermen are anywhere in sight on or near the river. It also suggests avoiding the crag on the weekend, although in my experience the river is more active with fishermen midweek.However you read this advice, you should be prepared exit the crag via the rear if a fisherman is in sight when you wish to leave. Which means knowing this route before you arrive at the crag (mobile reception is poor at the crag). The best way to do this is to walk in from the trail, so you know the way back. This only increases the walk-in by 5 mins and it’s not an arduous approach once you find the right line.For the rear approach go over the footbridge just west of the pub and climb up onto the Monsal Trail. Follow the trail for about 200m. After a short section of cutting there is a path of sorts going left (badger trail possibly) onto the slope pretty much directly above the crag. To get down follow the slope downhill bearing west/upstream until you can easily drop down just right/west of the bouldering.All things considered it would reduce potential conflict with the fishermen if this approach was treated as the default option.I’d hope it goes without say, but I’ll say it anyway - Don’t turn up with a crowd, don’t bring a dog, don’t be loud, be polite if anyone challenges you, and leave if asked to do so (but please, FFS, get a name and phone number if this happens).PS – I’ve corrected the map pin position on UKC.
