[Wellsy]

Power Club

Training continues at a pace, high levels of intensity.

Monday - desperately needed a rest from pulling so did bench up to 70kgs 5x5, OHP 40kgs 3 sets of 5, Squats up to 80kgs for 5 twice. Squats are proving good knee rehab. Some other general accessories.

Tuesday  rest day

Wednesday - Indoor session. Making myself do Indoor problems is doing great for restoring my confidence trying insecure moves at the top of the wall! I'm glad that's paying off, lots of hard pulling that day. Finger boarded, 1 armed with assistance. Got myself to doing 7-8 seconds with 10kgs taken off on the left and 8kgs taken off on the right, did six sets per arm.

Thursday - Targeted Bicep Work, couldn't get to the wall so isolation curls with 18kgs for sets of 5 per arm, regular and hammer curls, 3 sets each.

Friday - Again couldn't get out, Weighted Pullups 27kgs for 3 sets of 5, V-pullups for 3 sets of 8. Fingerboarded with two hands, 35kgs for 10, 10, 10, 8, 8, 7.

Saturday - took some people to Burbage South as they're brand new to climbing. Had a lovely day, repeated loads of easier stuff. Investigated Dog's Arse LH at 7A, couldn't do the first move but could pull on and slap for it, second move to top was fine. Incidentally I folded my pad in half and did it from the sit, suspect a few vids online are pad stacking but I dunno if there is a specific start hold? Anyway off one pad it didn't go.

House Party/BBQ till 5am in the evening with the goths. Sick night.

Sunday - Two hour walk in the morning around Damflask. Indoor session, not too hard but loving the return of confidence on moves with less than ideal feet for me generally. Felt a bit worse for wear so just went and did a bench session, 70kgs 3 sets of 5, and a few light weight sets for loads of reps just to get a burn in. OHP same, just the bar for 3 sets of 10

Too hot to climb really hard on circuits but feeling good and confident, looking forward to the future, ready to keep pushing myself!

[Duma]

M - 12 hr shift.
T - 12 hr shift. Eve run, hilly ish, trail, 6k ish. Amazing light again. 33 min. Sadly knee tender after, think I'm going to have to leave running for a bit.
W - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Cheddar, started at resorvior walls, warmed up with OS of Hung Jury 6a, felt tough, then Sidekick 7a, felt pretty casual. Then slogged up Shoot Gully for the main objective, Doc Martins this is a 2 pitch (7a, 7c) sport route at the top of the gorge that I've been lusting after for a while. Amazing position high above the tourists, and great rock on the initial pitch, but we'd seriously misjudged the heat, was absolutely brutal up on Warlord Wall, so bailed after both doing the first pitch. Decided to scramble the rest of the way up to the top of the gorge and nipped over to Spacehunter for a look at the classic Return of the Gunfighter 7c. Much cooler here but tbh we were both pretty cooked already, and I only managed one go up before the tank was empty. Gunfighter was as amazing as expected, huge route in an amazing position that doesn't let up until the belay, but with a few decent rests along the way. Very psyched for a return match, but will likely be after the summer closure now. Realistically need to be significantly fitter too, so perhaps no bad thing! Fantastic day. Knee still a bit tender on all the hiking around though.
T - Exhausted. DOMS in calves from Tues run much better than last week though, and knee feeling better. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Knee rehab.
F - Cheddar, Aiming for Sunset Buttress but dodgy forecast and later start than planned meant plans downgraded. Stayed at the top end and roadside and ticked off a few more of the 7a list: Picador, a recently retroed trad route that is still pretty loose, The Knack, tricky start then nice positions and climbing at the top, felt exposed for a roadside route too, Croaking in Woking hard move low down, then a womble to a nice slabby headwall. OS the first two, but misread the last and dropped the crux low down, lowered off from the second bolt and did it next go. Finished with a nice 6b, Ambiguously Straightforward before going straight to 12 hr night shift.
S - 12 hr night shift. Knee rehab. 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
S - 12 hr night shift.

71.5 kg
2022 plank total 173 min

[Aussiegav]

Rehab & Home Camping Club
Having a full kitchen refit this week.

Monday -
Peloton ride  45min & rehab

Tuesday
4 weeks post op today.

Capitalising on  the summer solstice and great weather, I went climbing at Horseshoe Quarry after work.

Prior to heading out, I had to move a lot of the new kitchen delivery. I carried about 400kg of various boxes into the house. I  felt the effects later, felt tired at the crag.

Gareth had picked out some routes so I followed him. The first was a very forgettable 6a+. Horrible start using slippery polished rock then grade 5 to the top.
The 2nd route was much better. The Big Fat Texan on the Corner, 6a.
Next route was A Right Earful, 6a+. This was basically grade 5 climbing to the last move which involved getting two poor holds & clipping the chain. My knee felt really sore & tired. When I got to the last move, I couldn’t be bothered to really try hard so I grabbed the draws at the chain.
The last route was Director’s Cut. 6b. I thought of top roping it but at the last minute I decided to lead it. I couldn’t get past one move so I lowered off and went to the top to set up a top rope. It was a bit of a faff leaning over the edge trying to sort the draws and the rope.
I managed to sort it out and then did a nervous down climb over the edge to the anchors. I stripped the route and then we left in the last light of the day, about 1030pm.

Wednesday -
Complete Rest day

Thursday -
45 min peloton ride & knee rehab work

Friday -
45 min peloton ride & knee rehab work

Saturday -
Dawn session at the School
Hoped to be doing some bouldering this session.
Warmed up with usual feet on the ground traverses on the Splat board and 8 sets of feet on Campus pulls. Finger felt ok on this. Not what it was, but the best it’s been since injuring it.
I then tried some basic warm ups on the 25 degree 2017 Moonboard. But the hold shapes rag on my finger and the positions my knee went in didn’t feel good. Felt very disappointed again.
I looked at the Splat board and there’s a easy 6a warm up so I did the first half of this. I didn’t fancy the drop from the top of the board. I did this 3 times and then did a 4×4 session on it.

Conditioning
Australian pull ups on the rings 3×8

Bench Press
1set of 8 bar + 30kg (50kg)
3×8 bar + 45kg. (65kg)

Pull ups 4min rests
3×8 body weight (finger still hurts)

Overhead press (standing)
1sets of 10 bar + 5kg. (25kg)
3 sets of 8 bar + 15 (35kg)
Knee rehab to finish

Spent the afternoon clearing out crap & doing runs to the tip.


Sunday.
Finger was swollen & sore today. Clearly not ready for that level of intensity I did yesterday.
Painted the kitchen ceiling and did a 45 min peloton ride in between coats of paint.
Back density hangs next week. 
Been 4 weeks since I injured my pulley. I thought I would be climbing at a higher intensity by now.

[Duma]

Do you climb indoors anywhere but the School Gav? I've never climbed there but get the impression it might be quite an unforgiving environment to rehab a finger in, especially the moonboards. For the knee also, I'd guess somewhere with a lot more vertish stuff would allow for downclimbing and bailing to jugs much more than the School?

[duncan]

M - Drove up to the Bob Downes hut and went for a very pleasant walk along the top of Froggatt and Curbar. Left it too late to get dinner, it gets dark quite late oop North this time of year doesn’t it?!
T - Sold an amplifier to a chap at a service station on the M56 which felt the height of dodgyness but turned out to be a pleasant and lucrative transaction. Drove to Llangollen to meet Chester’s answer to Pamela Pack. We hiked up to the Pinfold Area, new crag number 9 for the year, and warmed-up on Y Corner left and Devils Alternative. Tried Vacances Verticals. Despite having been on one recently I didn’t fancy the move up to the peg and opted to finish via the right branch of Y Corner. About E1 like this. Followed Pamela up the burly Overhanging Crack, where she happily got to deploy her big purple cam. Drove back to London.
W - Tired. 10km walk.
T - Westway. ‘Aerobic power’: ~2 mins on / ~2 mins off x3 x2; followed by ‘Aerobic capacity’: ~8 mins on / ~8 mins off x2.
F - Battered. 10km walk.
S - Westway. Long boulders: up and down to ‘V3’; followed by Aerobic capacity: ~8 mins on / ~8 mins off x3.
S - Two concerts: first watching the lad playing, the second Kikagaku Moyo with Falling Down. Both were excellent in their different ways and there has to be 7 or 8km worth of jogging here!

Converting sport fitness to trad. crushing hasn’t happened yet, backing off an E2 wasn’t quite what I had in mind on returning from Ceuse! Routes at Llangollen are short and it felt there were only ever one or two pieces keeping me off the deck. Not where I want to be on inland limestone. A familiar belayer, double ropes, and more food than a pot of yoghurt and some coconut macaroons from a 24 hour garage would have helped too.

A short trip to Pembroke coming up in a couple of weeks which will hopefully help get my trad. mojo back otherwise a low key month before going big in August.

Plan: most of my trad. goals involve sprints between reasonable rests so will continue to work on 1-3 minute endurance over the next 5-6 weeks.

[James Malloch]

Quiet week for a change!

M. Ankatalwand. Put the draws in Computerspiel and tried the 7a+ to its right. Dropped it a few times unexpectedly (from a balance thumb sprag rest). Top was a bit shit/dirty so didn’t bother with a RP.

T. Back at Ankatalwand. Led up Computespiele to put draws in for Zora. Felt fine on it again today. Then I tried an 8a (or maybe 7c+). Definitely felt 8a. It was fairly short (15m?), crimpy and in full sun by the time I got on it. I managed most of the moves going bolt to bolt. Few I had to use a stick clip past and I was spent by the last few moves. Haven’t crimped that hard for a long time. Hardest route I’ve tried and I’d be keen for another go. Zora messed her sequence up on Computerspiele but managed it in 2 sections. She’s not climbed 7a before so a proper good effort.

Drove to Leipzig in the evening.

W. Chill and swim. Hot.

T. Went to Berlin - it is hot.

F. Helping babysit for the weekend - even hotter. Not a good place for dogs. Lots of sitting inside.

S. Still in Berlin. Even hotter.

S. Still In berlin. Even hotter. Did our fingerboard warm up but not much more. 35 degrees outside hanging from a tree wasn’t ideal.

Nice weekend but I don’t agree with heat. I was a molten mess and the heat meant I could go an explore (too hot for the dog). But nice to meet and play with my Niece (in-law) and practice speaking German to a child.

[Fultonius]

Quiet week really. Still struggling a little bit with a strained plantar fascia from a silly old man's 400m sprint at the highland games.

Mon: Nowt
Tuesday: General Bouldering at TCA Newsroom. Interesting to see how differently you climb after weeks outdoors on trad. Every move is followed by an instinctive adjustment to be in the lowest force/effort position rather the usual indoor "burl through" style. Mainly just trying to flash pinks (6C/7A) or in <3 goes. Then moved onto some AeroPow style high end aerobic endurance circuits. TRX rows, shoulder stretch hangs (45secs), planks, pressups, hollow bodies.
Wed:nowt
Thursday: Went sport climbing at The Bunker. Low expectations due to midge/humidity. Good easier routes at the crag, got really shutdown on the two 7as. First (Ricochet) had some great steep moves in the middle but you really felt like you were having to do big throws for unknown holds. Onsighted most of it but got lost when I hit the lip of the slab above and powered out. FInish is horrific - you need to make a hard move of massive pleasant finishing jogs to a bad pocket with no feet, then lock off on a worse pocket still with no feet (under lip of roof) to clip the chains. Super contrived and just bad route design really... (new-ish route and a first time developer...).  Trued another 7a which just had a stopper move in the middle. All in a pretty poor show from me! 
Fri-Sun: family gathering / eating too much / drinking too much...

[Duncan Disorderly]

Snotting virus, it's not a bloody cold, club!!

M - Thus - Snot, afternoon naps and pissing the GF off with my moaning!
F - Some F5's @ Horseshit
S - Rest
S - F6a+. F6b and F6b+ @ Horseshit with Fiend... Lovely day out biffing up easy routes that I found strenuous enough in my post-viral state... Begining to feel more human tho!

Shitting hell... What a lingerer! Not felt this bad for ages... Glad it's on the wane.

[Coops_13]

M: Density hangs 40lb HC 40s *4sets. G1. Legs. Squats 175lb X5 *5. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *3. RDLs 60lb X2 X5 *3sets. 10 mins Stairmaster (9mins 8, 1 min 10)

T: Lincoln Lake after work. Straight to 8=D V8 which felt a lot harder than I remember. Dry-fired (more like wet fired) off the slopey top a couple of times before my mate found better beta. Kept falling off the top until I was able to pull it out of the bag on the last go. Classic.


T: Central Rock Gym, Boston. Tiny gym in the middle of the city. BM 2k bottom rung one-arm hangs, first for a while. Down to -40lb *3sets, pitiful. Went bouldering and managed 2 V5, 2 V6 and 1 V8 which felt at the grade. Had to work it a bit then try hard - v good! Shoulder, chest press and bicep curls to finish.

S: Guanella Pass. Worked Beyond Matters for a while, eventually doing the big crux move from the ground, only to be unable to do the next one! Briefly pulled on Toxic Shock again before heading to Empire to try Road Warrior. Standard beta hurt my hand so I tried some different beta. Too hard for me this time

S: G1. Density hangs 20mm 40s 100lb total load *4sets. Volume bouldering: 5 V1, 5 V2, 7 V3, 8 V4. 10 mins stairmaster setting 9

[shark]

11.6-10 average 162.3lbs

M.

T. Briancon. Went to a newly developed crag - Godichon. North facing and rated three stars sounded like a good choice but was choss. Rob led a 6a+ and a 7a. I pulled on gear on both. Retreated to Crag del Hombres to have a look at the good looking 7b+ Highway Start taking the weakness up a leaning wall left of of Exatic Mysterious. Robin made it look desperate so I had a go at a 7b instead - Cambon Voyage. This was a bad choice requiring desperate pulling on awkwardly angled rounded greasy holds which would have been hard enough in cold conditions let alone the hot humid ones. Bailed and had a play on Robin’s route which was brilliant but hard 7c IMO. Managed all the hard moves on the crux section but was too hard for a redpoint go.

W. 17 hour journey back

T. Wiped out

F. Still tired

S. Home warm up. 15 degrees, sunny and breezy with occasional light shower. Felt like it’s been months since I’ve been to the Peak. Took the scenic route out. Quiet at the Tor. Felt surprisingly strong on the hard moves of Bens (cross thru at second attempt and throw at second attempt) - so not lost anything with having a break from it. Headed to Crag X for a few goes on JR bumping into Jonboy then El Mocho and Nemo. Tickled the rail a couple of times. Finished at Rubicon for a bit of traversing - unsurprisingly endurance/recovery significantly better
 
S.

Great three weeks in Mingulay then Briancon. Going to keep mixing it up with trad, sport and bouldering. Starting to lose a bit of weight. Hopefully get  down to Pembroke soonish.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing, finally. Mighty mental effort. Singles, short links and holding positions on project. Rings, ab wheel. 29°.
Tue - garage session 3. Clean 2 singles at 77 kg.
Wed - 25' of loaded carries.
Thu - EMOM boxing bag.
Fri - static TBDL holds 100 kg 30" + high pulls x5 40 kg, all x 12.
Sat - thrusters, tired.
Sun - wheel 20', high pulls. Tired.

[Fiend]

T - Sold an amplifier to a chap at a service station on the M56 which felt the height of dodgyness but turned out to be a pleasant and lucrative transaction. Drove to Llangollen to meet Chester’s answer to Pamela Pack.

Those simple two sentences made me smile! Was Pamela actually Pauline, by any chance?

[JohnM]

Late again and missed a week again...

13 - 19 June

M - Run on the road - 10km

T - BoulderUK - lots of boulders up to V6. Always enjoys my sessions there.

W - Fell running - 13km +360m

T - Fishing

F -

S - Dragon's Back recce Day 2 part 2 The Rhinogs 40km +2026m

S - Dragon's Back recce Day 3 70km +3567m

20 - 26 June

M - Fishing

T -

W - Fishing

T - Fishing

F -

S - Driving back to Austria

S - Trail running 24km +1720m - fatigued legs and bad sciatica after the long drive.

Gone right off the boil with climbing at the moment. I knew I would have to dedicate more time to train for the Dragon's Back race this year but my motivation for climbing has waned. It doesn't help that it is either 30 degrees + or raining here. In any case, I need to use this time to sort out my elbow tendonitis which has lasted nearly 9 months now and just doesn't go away.

[SA Chris]

I knew I would have to dedicate more time to train for the Dragon's Back race this year

How you can sustain that level of effort for that is beyond me. Good luck with the training.