Craig Stirling with Wil.
Shame that the Grotte crag isn’t in the Peak as it would make great training for my upcoming trip to Red River Gorge in October.
Simon, have you been to L'atelier? Theres an amazing 7a there, one of the best I''ve ever done, and the walk in is stunning.
@Simon, what happend on Pabbay? Did you get whisked off early due to bad weather?
There’s no excuse for arriving in Kentucky without the requisite fitness if you live near a climbing wall with a steep lead wall or circuit board though Now is the time to start.
T. Maximillians Wand. Did a 6a+, 6b+ and a really hard Wolfgang 6c. Also tried Chasing the Train (7c). Felt like a massive sandbag. Hard climbing with lots of tweaky holds. Didn’t have a second go.F. Day chilling and swimming and then went to Ankatalwand in the evening. Flashed a 7a (Computerspiel) which felt very easy. Though apparently many think it’s harshly graded. Then dropped the last move of a 7b onsight (New Dimensions - another Wolfgang route). Just threw for the wrong hold. Would have been my first of the grade and it felt pretty relaxed until I fell off. Went for a redpoint by headtorch but fell at the same place. S. Went back and got got New Dimensions putting the draws in. Felt smooth climbing it. Finished with a 6b+ and then went for a swim. Went to the Petzl Kletter Festival festival. Had a good dance until 2am - first time at live music for ages!
Quote from: spidermonkey09 on June 20, 2022, 10:21:37 amSimon, have you been to L'atelier? Theres an amazing 7a there, one of the best I''ve ever done, and the walk in is stunning.No I haven’t. Just looked at guide and looks great and it’s North facing too. Don’t think Rob will be keen though with the A0 pitch to access it
Quote from: James Malloch on June 19, 2022, 10:15:06 pmT. Maximillians Wand. Did a 6a+, 6b+ and a really hard Wolfgang 6c. Also tried Chasing the Train (7c). Felt like a massive sandbag. Hard climbing with lots of tweaky holds. Didn’t have a second go.F. Day chilling and swimming and then went to Ankatalwand in the evening. Flashed a 7a (Computerspiel) which felt very easy. Though apparently many think it’s harshly graded. Then dropped the last move of a 7b onsight (New Dimensions - another Wolfgang route). Just threw for the wrong hold. Would have been my first of the grade and it felt pretty relaxed until I fell off. Went for a redpoint by headtorch but fell at the same place. S. Went back and got got New Dimensions putting the draws in. Felt smooth climbing it. Finished with a 6b+ and then went for a swim. Went to the Petzl Kletter Festival festival. Had a good dance until 2am - first time at live music for ages!I never tried Chasin, but I heard a few people mutter that Hitchhike (which I did try) was either no harder or easier. Mind you, Hitchhike is probably more accessible in style, which could be part of it.I found Computerspiele nails, and the guys we were with made New Dimensions look pretty hard too. Good effort.
I did think about trying Hitchhike, but opted for a nails Wolfgang 6c instead.Computerspiele and New Dimensions seemed like my perfect style. I think I used some whack beta on ND too (at the top). Way harder than it should have been and avoided all the better holds. Went wrong onsight but just stuck with the beta for RP.Went back yesterday and did Internet (7c) too. Got it second go without any issues - thought it would be a fight as it was only my second route of the grade. Would be keen to try some of the 8a there but it’s our last morning today before 2 weeks visiting family. I love that crag - style seems to be positive but small holds, and you really have to use your feet well. And every 3m you get a better hold to rest on.
We’ve climbed day-on-day off (on average) but never trying anything too hard, and some days are just 1-2 routes, so I’m not craving any rest at the moment. But maybe we could do with more rest?