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secluded scottish beach bouldering (Read 8136 times)

matt463

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secluded scottish beach bouldering
June 19, 2022, 11:11:39 am
Looking for some suggestions on some great secluded scottish beaches. Planning a trip in the autumn. Mainly as just a family holiday but if there happened to be some excellent boulders there too it would be ideal. Does anyone have any knowledge?

Fultonius

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#1 Re: secluded scottish beach bouldering
June 19, 2022, 11:51:57 am
Sandwood Bay. Never actually done the bouldering but the beach is beautiful.

Shiegra?


sherlock

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#2 Re: secluded scottish beach bouldering
June 19, 2022, 11:58:44 am
Looking for some suggestions on some great secluded scottish beaches. Planning a trip in the autumn. Mainly as just a family holiday but if there happened to be some excellent boulders there too it would be ideal. Does anyone have any knowledge?
It's quite a large place  :) so give us a clue....North, South, East or the other one? Highlands? Islands?
All these places have pros & cons.

sxrxg

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#3 Re: secluded scottish beach bouldering
June 19, 2022, 12:25:04 pm
Loads of fun coastal bouldering in Scotland, of the ones I have visited...

Primrose bay is great with kids. Lovely sandy beach and some fun bouldering.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CD814tODlgy/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Also Cummingston is just down the coast with loads more good problems and great rock pooling.

Both these venues are generally midge free being on the east coast.

Down South in Dumfries Thirlstane is good with kids and has some fun bouldering in a lovely and unique sandstone cave.

Garheaugh is also nice however a rocky beach.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bg_AzQAh_Qv/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

In the far North Shiegra has a lovely beach at the campsite. The bouldering though is not exactly easily accessible with a v diff downclimb and crossing house sized blocs above some big drops. It is a stunning spot though with some amazing blocs.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CEH0gdIjfiK/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=




matt463

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#4 Re: secluded scottish beach bouldering
June 19, 2022, 12:30:28 pm
Looking for some suggestions on some great secluded scottish beaches. Planning a trip in the autumn. Mainly as just a family holiday but if there happened to be some excellent boulders there too it would be ideal. Does anyone have any knowledge?
It's quite a large place  :) so give us a clue....North, South, East or the other one? Highlands? Islands?
All these places have pros & cons.

No preference at this stage to be honest. Interested in finding a great spot and happy to drive as far as needed.

matt463

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#5 Re: secluded scottish beach bouldering
June 19, 2022, 12:34:53 pm
Loads of fun coastal bouldering in Scotland, of the ones I have visited...

Primrose bay is great with kids. Lovely sandy beach and some fun bouldering.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CD814tODlgy/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Also Cummingston is just down the coast with loads more good problems and great rock pooling.

Both these venues are generally midge free being on the east coast.

Down South in Dumfries Thirlstane is good with kids and has some fun bouldering in a lovely and unique sandstone cave.

Garheaugh is also nice however a rocky beach.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bg_AzQAh_Qv/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

In the far North Shiegra has a lovely beach at the campsite. The bouldering though is not exactly easily accessible with a v diff downclimb and crossing house sized blocs above some big drops. It is a stunning spot though with some amazing blocs.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CEH0gdIjfiK/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

These are some great suggestions! Thanks!

sxrxg

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#6 Re: secluded scottish beach bouldering
June 19, 2022, 12:37:05 pm
Also I should mention that the campsite at Hopeman was ace. Right on the beach. Cool little beach bar restaurant and walking distance to both Primrose bay and Cummingston.

sherlock

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#7 Re: secluded scottish beach bouldering
June 19, 2022, 12:47:37 pm
Maybe consider Mull. Some lovely beaches and a variety of different venues and rock types.Loch Buie is special.

sxrxg

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#8 Re: secluded scottish beach bouldering
June 19, 2022, 01:07:00 pm
Can't believe I forgot about Mull. Probably because it was pre kids and seems a lifetime ago! Loch Buie was an ace little spot and I remember the beach being nice (need to watch out for the free roaming Highland cattle though!)

Also the campsite at Fidden Farm is amazing with loads of granite outcrops (make sure you have good skin!) close by including Kintra and Erriad. Also the beach has that stunning white sand and clear waters that make the Scottish West coast so special.

Another spot I forgot to mention is Ardmair beach. Fun sandstone roof right next to the road and a massive stoney beach that gets deep really quick so good for swimming. It is an ideal spot for a quick stop if travelling North on the road from Ullapool.

sherlock

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#9 Re: secluded scottish beach bouldering
June 19, 2022, 01:13:39 pm
Ardmair is ok, Mrs S and her pals swim there a couple of times a week but maybe stretches the defenition of 'secluded'!

edshakey

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This thread has got Fiend written all over it

lukeyboy

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Achmelvich beach, near Lochinver, has some decent bouldering up to about 6c. Primarily though it's a stunning beach in a beautiful area.

matt463

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Thanks for the suggestions. One of the main reasons for needing seclusion is a not very sociable rescue staffy I have. Had previously considered placing a small bit of gear or building an anchor to make sure he can’t chase stuff

SA Chris

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The SMC guide mentions Slaggan on the Rubha Mor peninsula as having good bouldering, but I don't know much about it. Also if you have an unsociable staffy I wouldn't recommend Primrose Bay, there are always people walking into and out of the cave leading to the main bouldering area and it's quite a busy beach.

There is also Roseheaty near Fraserburgh which is more on a rock platform than a beach, but has a lot of easy stuff to do on your own and for kids, and is generally very quiet.

Bonjoy

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Ardnamurchan has a couple of options.
The well known wall at Sanna is nice juggy highball diorite, but you will probably see other people.
I found a new spot about a mile up the coast from the same parking, near the trad crag Rubha Carrach. I was only there for a few hours and have recorded the better things I did on UKC https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/rubha_carrach-11544/#photos . Glass Mantel and Glass Arete are excellent. There looked to be another ten or twenty lines to add. Generally it's perfect sandy landings. The rock is solid gabbro, some of it sea worn glassy smooth stuff. Mixture of high and lowballs and traversing. Very secluded, you're unlikely to see anyone else, except maybe kayakers. Views over to the small islands are stunning. Partially tidal, pick a mid to low tide if you want to enjoy the white sand beach.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CeQQ5NajQ0K/?hl=en

SA Chris

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There is also some stiff on the crags and buttresses on and around Polin Beach near Oldshormore. It's always a lot quieter than the main beach.

sherlock

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Probably because it's slightly further from the car park.
I'm not complaining.

scragrock

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There is also some stiff on the crags and buttresses on and around Polin Beach near Oldshormore. It's always a lot quieter than the main beach.

Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ;)

SA Chris

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lol. Like it's ever going to get busy even if you publicise it in every single available place.

scragrock

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https://vimeo.com/manage/videos/701361447

Plenty other low grade shite vids of the far north on my Vimeo, also check out the map section on UKC around the coastline of that area.

I get a wee cottage up this way once or twice a year for me and the family{4yr old and 4 week old} and it is absolutely perfect IF the weather is good and there is NO midge.

The bouldering/climbing is great, we also swim, snorkel ,walk, surf, and all the rest.

Please support local accommodation, shops, bars, restaurants etc over the NC500 shitshow.

Sheigra honour campsite is now closed to vehicles because of this :( 

Alex-the-Alex

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Sheigra honour campsite is now closed to vehicles because of this :(

Shit, really? The one past the cemetery? That's really sad if so... In general I've only seen pretty good behaviour when I've stayed. But it doesn't take many incidents to spoil it...

I know this is preaching to choir, but for those visiting these areas it is so worth going the extra mile to be considerate, have a chat with the locals (and drop heavy hints that climbers are a good bunch where suitable  ;)). Small acts might make up for the shit show that they see day to day.

I was in Torridon post office recently and the view on boulderers when I asked if they had the guide in stock wasn't all that positive...

On a more positive note, I'd second loch buie. They've got a perfect wee (basic) campsite now, great coffee at the old post office, and well kept loos. Lots of sheep around so mind the dog.

sherlock

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Sheigra honour campsite is now closed to vehicles because of this :(


I was in Torridon post office recently and the view on boulderers when I asked if they had the guide in stock wasn't all that positive...


Really? That's very odd. The owner,Jo, has always been great in the 18 years we've been going there. She would often text us a boots-on-the-ground forecast including wind direction once we explained the drying principles. A lovely woman, I wonder what's changed? I know she hates bad  campervan behaviour of all persuasions. And contrary to what the tourism industry would tell you hates the NC 500 with a vengeance......

scragrock

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Yup, the farm track is closed at the cemetery which is fine for us day trippers who don't mind a walk to the crags/boulders/beach but it completely buggers the responsible travelling climber staying quietly overnight. Last time i was there and it was open i saw at least 20 campervans on the machair, totally chewed up, fire rings etc.
Quite glad its closed so the delicate habitat can recover a little.

It is well worth investing in litter pickers and doing a proper beach clean if your there and as Alex suggests make it obvious your climbers and gain support from the locals.

matt463

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Thanks a bunch for the tips. Would have never anticipated the potential (justified) animosity towards campervan folk too. I think we'll most likely be looking for some sort of site with facilities anyway, but its good to know.

duncan

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Sheigra honour campsite is now closed to vehicles because of this :(

Well that's sad and sadly predictable. Chalk another up to inconsiderate vanlifers  :(

I was going to suggest to the OP it wouldn't be a great place to bring an unsociable dog but it seems that is all academic now.

 

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