[Duma]

Power Club
M - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Few crunches and back bridges for knee, which although much improved from last Thursday's dodginess, is still well below average (which is itself a step below healthy since cider soak 2 years ago). Eve session, Cheddar, the Wave. Nipped across the road to try and tick off another from my cheddar 7a list to warm up, Dada. It's apparently soft but I slipped off damp holds after misreading the crux. Tbh it's not great, and we only had the eve, so stripped it without redpointing. Realised as I did that it's half term and you're not allowed on the South side, doh! Hopefully got away without arousing the wrath of either Cheddar Gorge and Caves, or Martin Crocker! Over on the Wave, got stuck into Greed a 7b+ I'd always dismissed as it's meant to be very reachy and doesn't get many ticks. The obvious crux is reachy, but I could just about span, and there's some really good moves before and after, finishing with a big move from crimps and a high foot to a flat finishing hold. Took a couple of goes to sort the sequence, but managed it 4th try, by the absolute skin of my teeth on the last move, very satisfying. Nipped up Billy Crystal a surprisingly ok 6b+ before dark to bring me one closer to ticking the Wave.
T - knee still a bit tweaky. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Walked to and from TCA in the hope it might help knee. Saw Jonny there who did something similar recently and passed on an exercise Huffy gave him so will try that for a few weeks. Tried to flash all the new purples (5 - 6B), failed on one, mainly as still warming up and not concentrating. Amusing how much easier this was than the orange circuit I did in font a couple of weeks ago. Knee rehab in eve.
W - Knee rehab in morning. Drive to Portland pm, chill in campsite with more knee rehab and 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
T - Knee rehab in morning. Coastguard North, planned South but got distracted after walking down. I've done a lot of the routes here 20 years ago, but still a few gaps. The Man Who Never Found Himself (6a+) to warm up, then dropped the last move of Van People (7a) on OS, steady 2nd go. Managed an OS of Spare Rib (7b) before lunch. Swim and a sandwich, then got Prison Sex (7c+) 3rd go. Weather was great, every route I did was amazing, and felt like I was climbing well. Lush day.
F - knee rehab in morning. Blacknor South/Far South. Bit more cloud around but still warm and dry. Did a 5 ( It's My Life) by the descent but then moved away from the crowds to Far South. Rag n Bone Man 6b, then 3 excellent 7a+'s on the left: Bushwacked dropped the OS but ok 2nd go, The Singing Bush satisfyingly easy flash, and best of the lot Chaos UK slipped off a smear on the OS, only just got it next go.
S - Knee rehab in morning. Coastguard again. OS a newer line at North Payback Day 6c+, looks a bit squeezed in but climbs well and independently. Then round to coastguard South, so good here! Xavier's Wall 6a for another warm up, then tried the gloriously named Full Fathom Five 7b, guessed wrong on the OS, then took a while to work out the crux. Managed it 2nd go, but felt a struggle in the heat. Last route was Bermuda Triangle 6c, initial cherty steepness leads to a complete change of scene at half height with a brilliant slab to finish. Messed about too long at the bottom on the OS (suspect energy levels were pretty low by this point too) and failed at the 2nd bolt, but it was so good that doing it again was a pleasure.
S - exhausted so drove home

Excellent long weekend, great to come back to Portland after many years away. The new campsite (sweet hill farm) is a real bonus, perfect location (walking distance from loads of the best crags) and makes it a much more appealing destination for the weekend

71.5 kg
2022 plank total 155 min

[Aussiegav]

Thanks Duma.

Monday -

Rehab finger protocol. Half crimp lifts with 5kg & holding a lattice edge every 3hrs.  5s:10s work rest ratio. 10 lifts. Finger slightly tender on massaging. Did these during work whilst sitting at the desk.

Did 45min power zone ride on the Peloton after dinner.

Tuesday
630 start. Checked in to theatre admissions. Sat around and waited. Read a bit  and did rehab protocol while I waited.

Knee Operation, went in around 930am. Came home around 4:45pm. Codiene made me feel sick.




Wednesday -
Rehab protocol as per Monday.
Started post op knee exercises.

Thursday - Rehab for finger & knee

Friday -
rehab protocol for finger & knee. finger feeling better. Upper weight from 5kg to 12.7kg

Saturday -
Rehab both affected parts. Crutches are ditched. Hobbling around more efficiently

Sunday.
Same as yesterday.
Starting to feel a bit fed up due inactivity. Can’t wait to do more.

[Wellsy]

Monday - rest

Tuesday - Moonboard session at the Depot, felt pretty great. Did some purples after

Wednesday - evening more chill Depot session just flashing the entire black circuit

Thursday - Pleasley Vale. Did The Pinch 7A, emotional roller coaster. Fingerboarded and Weighted pullups in the evening, 3 x 5 (25kgs added)

Friday to Sunday - at the UKGE so taking a few rest days and having this week as a training break. Back on it next week. Happy with The Pinch, great moves and a good problem

[Fiend]

AussieGav - what knee op did you have??

Wellsy - tell me that the G in UKGE stands for "goth"  Also the Pinch is cool, I managed it a few years back, was quite a fight, I might have had to use footwork and all. Is it still intact after there was a fire lit beneath it??

[spidermonkey09]

 Good beta re the campsite Duma. I haven't been to Portland for years but might go for a few days in July. I was always put off camping there by the outrageous prices, is this one any better/worse? They were charging today's camping prices 10 years ago so I sort of dread to ask! 

[Coops_13]

M: More Crested Butte exploring before the drive home

T: 1 mile local walk. 50 ab-wheel roll-outs. G1. Hangs: 20mm HC & OH 7s BW, +10lb, +25lb, +35lb, +45lb, +50lb. Kilterboard 45deg 2V4, 5V5, 5V6. Shoulder press 45lb, bicep curl 40lb, chest press 50lb X6 *3sets. 10 mins stairmaster.

T: 1 mile local walk. G1. Hangs: 20mm HC & OH 7s BW, +15lb, +30lb, +40lb, +45lb, +50lb, +55lb. Kilterboard 50deg 1V4, 7V5, 3V6.

S: Hike up to Emerald Lake, RMNP with Mum

S: Emerald Lake. Back a second day to climb this time. Warmed up and repeated The Kind V5 twice before heading over to check out Real Large V9. Way too hard for me right now but went from being unable to do a single move to linking the first three together! Psyched. Will return in a month to check in on progress. Finished with some pottering over on the Cube boulder sending a V4 and V5 that I've done before

[Aussiegav]

AussieGav - what knee op did you have??

Arthroscopy- torn anterior/lateral cartilage on the right knee

[remus]

Good beta re the campsite Duma. I haven't been to Portland for years but might go for a few days in July. I was always put off camping there by the outrageous prices, is this one any better/worse? They were charging today's camping prices 10 years ago so I sort of dread to ask! 

I think it was about £10 pppn when I was there last year. Might have changed in the meantime as we were there just as covid rules were being relaxed so imagine it may have gotten busier since.

I'd second Duma's recommendation. It's handy just having somewhere to park given the council seems intent on making parking anywhere else on Portland as painful as possible.

[James Malloch]

Power Club
M - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Few crunches and back bridges for knee, which although much improved from last Thursday's dodginess, is still well below average (which is itself a step below healthy since cider soak 2 years ago). Eve session, Cheddar, the Wave. Nipped across the road to try and tick off another from my cheddar 7a list to warm up, Dada. It's apparently soft but I slipped off damp holds after misreading the crux. Tbh it's not great, and we only had the eve, so stripped it without redpointing. Realised as I did that it's half term and you're not allowed on the South side, doh! Hopefully got away without arousing the wrath of either Cheddar Gorge and Caves, or Martin Crocker! Over on the Wave, got stuck into Greed a 7b+ I'd always dismissed as it's meant to be very reachy and doesn't get many ticks. The obvious crux is reachy, but I could just about span, and there's some really good moves before and after, finishing with a big move from crimps and a high foot to a flat finishing hold. Took a couple of goes to sort the sequence, but managed it 4th try, by the absolute skin of my teeth on the last move, very satisfying. Nipped up Billy Crystal a surprisingly ok 6b+ before dark to bring me one closer to ticking the Wave.
T - knee still a bit tweaky. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Walked to and from TCA in the hope it might help knee. Saw Jonny there who did something similar recently and passed on an exercise Huffy gave him so will try that for a few weeks. Tried to flash all the new purples (5 - 6B), failed on one, mainly as still warming up and not concentrating. Amusing how much easier this was than the orange circuit I did in font a couple of weeks ago. Knee rehab in eve.
W - Knee rehab in morning. Drive to Portland pm, chill in campsite with more knee rehab and 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
T - Knee rehab in morning. Coastguard North, planned South but got distracted after walking down. I've done a lot of the routes here 20 years ago, but still a few gaps. The Man Who Never Found Himself (6a+) to warm up, then dropped the last move of Van People (7a) on OS, steady 2nd go. Managed an OS of Spare Rib (7b) before lunch. Swim and a sandwich, then got Prison Sex (7c+) 3rd go. Weather was great, every route I did was amazing, and felt like I was climbing well. Lush day.
F - knee rehab in morning. Blacknor South/Far South. Bit more cloud around but still warm and dry. Did a 5 ( It's My Life) by the descent but then moved away from the crowds to Far South. Rag n Bone Man 6b, then 3 excellent 7a+'s on the left: Bushwacked dropped the OS but ok 2nd go, The Singing Bush satisfyingly easy flash, and best of the lot Chaos UK slipped off a smear on the OS, only just got it next go.
S - Knee rehab in morning. Coastguard again. OS a newer line at North Payback Day 6c+, looks a bit squeezed in but climbs well and independently. Then round to coastguard South, so good here! Xavier's Wall 6a for another warm up, then tried the gloriously named Full Fathom Five 7b, guessed wrong on the OS, then took a while to work out the crux. Managed it 2nd go, but felt a struggle in the heat. Last route was Bermuda Triangle 6c, initial cherty steepness leads to a complete change of scene at half height with a brilliant slab to finish. Messed about too long at the bottom on the OS (suspect energy levels were pretty low by this point too) and failed at the 2nd bolt, but it was so good that doing it again was a pleasure.
S - exhausted so drove home

Excellent long weekend, great to come back to Portland after many years away. The new campsite (sweet hill farm) is a real bonus, perfect location (walking distance from loads of the best crags) and makes it a much more appealing destination for the weekend

71.5 kg
2022 plank total 155 min

Sounds like a great week! I’m keen for a Portland trip this summer so good to know about the campsite.

Is there a certain guide you would want for the sport down there?

[AJM]

Sounds like a great week! I’m keen for a Portland trip this summer so good to know about the campsite.

Is there a certain guide you would want for the sport down there?

The Dorset Rockfax is about the only choice really in terms of things that are up to date.

[James Malloch]

M. Berlin Wall. Standard 20 min warm up (really happy with this routine now) and then got Petite Illusion 7a+ putting the draws in. 3rd go off the trip and felt so easy after a rest day. Next I have Galaxy 7c a go. Dropped the last move of the Boulder on the flash and then went bolt to bolt to the chains. Really cool route. Afterwards did the 6b Coup des Blues pour Dom and 6b+ super Mario. Good day!

T. Rest day.

W. Had a bunch of goes on Galaxy but kept dropping the same move. Gave up and did Bonney and Clyde 6c as Zora wanted to try. She got it 3rd go on TR. Hardest outdoor route so really psyched! I gave Lapinerie a go and messed the top up, got a sequence but didn’t have time for a RP. Also tried Equinox 6c but fell going over the roof (bad beta).

T. Un Éléphant ça Trompe Énormément 6c On the grand face - really cool route. La Fin d'un Primitif 7a+. First time I’ve onsighted this grade for 5 years so happy with it! Given 7B on UKC but both local guides have 7a+.

F. Rest day. Swim and dinner with some of the brits out here.

S. Nitshapa. Managed Petit Remède à l'inertie second go. Hard crux! Given 7b in the guide but written as 7b+ at the start of the route. Either way, my first 7b in Ceuse and hardest I’ve climbed this trip. Nice for it to feel okay and go so quickly. 7b normally take a few RPs for me. Finished with the 6a En Attendant Janote.

S. End of Ceuse for us (for now). Now in Briancon visiting a friend and maybe some Bouldering. Zora lost her sport head so has been top roping. Annoying for her and meant I’ve been trying more easier routes. Been super fun though so no complaints here. Time for a change and a bit of bouldering. Maybe 2-3 days here and then either Daone in Italy or Magic Wood. Want to be in the Frankenjura in 10 days for a long weekend and then we have a few weeks of family things before starting the journey back to the U.K. - think we’ll book a ferry on 8th July.

Worked it out the other day and we’ve basically had day on day off since we set off. 9 days of bouldering and 19 sport. Feeling good now but a bit of a break will probably be good too.

[duncan]

Good luck with the knee Gav. Portland camping is a basic field with cold tap and toilet and is £10 a person. As Duma says, the location is ideal. The Dorset Rockfax is the guide to get: it’s written by Pete Oxley so is original work by the most important developer and also the most up-to-date.

M - Céüse, Un pont sur l'infini. Walk-in took 1.45 hours. Did a couple of easy routes, still running out of puff very quickly.
T - Rest day. Shoulder conditioning.
W - Céüse, base of the Grand Face. Slow to walk in again. Warmed-up on the easy slab routes, then did Trous Line and Tabernacle, little bits of Spain in the Hautes Alps. Hyperventilating for minutes after each route. Very slow to descend and wiped-out after the day.
T - Sore thumb (pocket pinching syndrome).
F - Less sore thumb.
S - Céüse, Les Maîtres du Monde. Walk-in took 1.25 hours and felt a bit easier. Crag was busy. Apparently it was a long weekend in Italy, it certainly sounded like it! Did three 6a+/bs, could have done more but played the longer game. A good day.
S - Another of the team was struggling with the walk-in so we decided to check-out Orpierre. Warmed-up on La Moulinette and Poupoupidou (6a+, felt like 6b or 6b+) then tried La Semaine Prochaine … but managed to Z-clip on the crux. Not Céüse bolting! Finally did the excellent Y'a Plus de Limites (a punchy 6b). Orpierre has good climbing, was reasonably cool from mid afternoon, and a little busy (it was a Sunday). The polish on the easy routes was a bit off putting and the 6s are graded according to the original French scale which may bother some.

Céüse has been great and I am gradually regaining some climbing and general fitness. I was here in early June in 2004 and 2016 and this year it’s been a lot busier. It’s still manageable, especially if you’re happy to walk east a bit. If you have a specific target at Berlin or Demi Lune it might be a bit much. I hate to think what it will be like in August. 

[Duma]

Good beta re the campsite Duma. I haven't been to Portland for years but might go for a few days in July. I was always put off camping there by the outrageous prices, is this one any better/worse? They were charging today's camping prices 10 years ago so I sort of dread to ask! 

https://sweethillfarm.co.uk/
Was about £10pppn

Pretty basic, field with compost loos and a tea van, but they were just building showers last week, and had beer and food stall on the weekend eves. Given how shite all the pubs on the island are (cove house excepted), and the perfect location, it's a bargain! Walking distance from everywhere except the cuttings and Blacknor North I reckon.

[Duma]

Sounds like a great week! I’m keen for a Portland trip this summer so good to know about the campsite.

Is there a certain guide you would want for the sport down there?

The Dorset Rockfax is about the only choice really in terms of things that are up to date.

This is the one

Edit, what Duncan said re Pete Oxley too!
Also, not sure if my guide is the most up to date edition, but if you want to do the Uber classics Walking the King or Quick as Rainbows, be aware the trench beyond Bermuda Triangle almost never dries out, despite the guide claiming otherwise - be prepared to wade!

[Duma]

Great weeks Céüse crew! Seem to have really hit your stride James, and Duncan, good to hear the fitness/respiration improving, great you've got so much out of this trip, esp considering the scare a couple of weeks ago.
Good luck with recovery Gav!

[spidermonkey09]

Cheers for the beta re campsite, sounds like a gamechanger.

When do the European school holidays run? I'll be there 23rd Aug to 6th September so was hoping I might miss the worst of it. Still, it is what it is!

[James Malloch]

Cheers for the beta re campsite, sounds like a gamechanger.

When do the European school holidays run? I'll be there 23rd Aug to 6th September so was hoping I might miss the worst of it. Still, it is what it is!

Just remembered we bumped into some Aussies in Ceuse. Asked randomly if we knew you, Jim. A lady called Kat from Tazmania. She also knew the knew the one person knew from Tazmania. Small world!

[James Malloch]

Sounds like a great week! I’m keen for a Portland trip this summer so good to know about the campsite.

Is there a certain guide you would want for the sport down there?

The Dorset Rockfax is about the only choice really in terms of things that are up to date.

This is the one

Edit, what Duncan said re Pete Oxley too!
Also, not sure if my guide is the most up to date edition, but if you want to do the Uber classics Walking the King or Quick as Rainbows, be aware the trench beyond Bermuda Triangle almost never dries out, despite the guide claiming otherwise - be prepared to wade!

Cheers! I’ve got the Rockfax subscription so will stick with that one. Probably only have a very short trip unless i don’t manage to get a french visa. Looks like a great place.

[SA Chris]

When do the European school holidays run?

Different countries close down for national holidays at different times. I don't even think all the parts of France are the same.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T.
W.
T. Evening session - warmup, 3x max hangs, woodie.
F.
S.
S. DIY all day. Evening session - warmup, straight onto woodie. Cruised my project from previous session first try, probably the hardest basic pulling problem on the board yet. Polished off another project after a few more goes and did a new one on the pinches.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxing bag, speed EMOM sets.
Tue - garage session 3. Clean double at 77 kg (training 1 RM). Volume at 80%. Press two singles at 53 (training 1 RM). Like a beast from hell.
Wed - high pulls x5, snatch x5, overhead carry x1', all x8.
Thu - farmer's static holds 1' + hill sprint x8.
Fri - boxing bag, speed EMOM sets.
Sat - 25' of loaded carries: farmer's 80 kg 1' + rest 30" + shoulder 30" + overhead 1' 30 kg. All x 10.
Sun - boxing bag, rope skipping, light jog.

[jwi]

When do the European school holidays run?

Different countries close down for national holidays at different times. I don't even think all the parts of France are the same.

For the summer holidays, in France all zones have vacation until 2 sep. (The other school holidays varies).

[Aussiegav]

Great reading, especially on Ceuse. Seems like there’s a lot to go at in the 6a to 6c range. Is worth going there for just those routes.
Thinking of trying a quick 4 day hit and get a number of routes done on that amazing crag.

[James Malloch]

Great reading, especially on Ceuse. Seems like there’s a lot to go at in the 6a to 6c range. Is worth going there for just those routes.
Thinking of trying a quick 4 day hit and get a number of routes done on that amazing crag.

I think so. The main problem you will have it queueing for routes at busy times but there’s always something to get on.

[SA Chris]

Have look at UKC, lots in that range and some sectors laden with quality 6es, especially if you don't mind a bit more of a walk.

[Fultonius]

Late to the party again.

Got some good training sessions in this week and a day out at a relatively new and decent venue above Glen Croe.

Mon:Breif BW repeaters. 4 sets of 8 reps. Struggling with HC on index finger.
Tuesday: TCA circuits. Crimpd 4x4 aero base. 6a/6b twice (no step off). 6b x 4. (hmm... Seem to have lost the rest! Not exciting, 3 more sets of 6bish with some 6b+ thrown in. Want to get to laps of 6c.
Weds:nowt
Thursday: Dumby Session, 3 working goes on Endurance (proper f8a and a step up from Sufferance) managed all bar one move, but having spoken with a mate it seems like I can maybe do what I thought might work with a gaston/press so that's good. 2.5 laps of the black wall 6b for some aeropow.
Friday: bouldering at Dubh Lic. Lovely day out with a few Glasgow folks. 2 x 6a, 1x 6b+ and 2x6c (all flashed) and a 7a that's morpho as fuck but I'll take it... (should have flashed it but probably got a bit of aid with a spotter-dab*, so didn't commit to the top out) got it third go. No such luck on the (amazing) 7b, Feast for Crows (stand) which I got all the moves on but just didn't have the beans for the crux throw after the rest of it. Keen to go back!
Sunday:Dollar Quarry with the lass. She's not been climbing much recently  due to shoulder issues, so checked it out. Some fun techy (or just awkward...) climbing but a terrible place for a workout! All mini cruxes with easy slab in between.
All in a good week of actual climbing and some decent training. Volume fairly low but feeling good because of it.

[Wellsy]

AussieGav - what knee op did you have??

Wellsy - tell me that the G in UKGE stands for "goth"  Also the Pinch is cool, I managed it a few years back, was quite a fight, I might have had to use footwork and all. Is it still intact after there was a fire lit beneath it??

Stands for games! Tabletop games to be precise. Lots of board games, rpgs etc

Well I have been told there was a crimp everyone used that broke off? I used a small boxy right hand pinch and large bad left hand pinch/compression, left foot on, pounce for the deep slot, right foot on, right hand to the big blocky pinch, then a bad smear for the right foot and go for a good ledge as the feet cut, campus left hand up to a jug, then again to the top jug.

[duncan]

Seems like there’s a lot to go at in the 6a to 6c range. Is worth going there for just those routes.
Thinking of trying a quick 4 day hit and get a number of routes done on that amazing crag.

Although Ceuse is most famous for its mid 7s and up, it is still well worth visiting for a confident 6s to lower 7s leader. The ambience, the rock, and the climbing are all fabulous.

And now the caveats. The grades are firm, the bolting is sometimes a bit spaced, the style can take a little adjusting to, and the easier routes in the popular areas are starting to get polished. All this can make a Ceuse 6b+  feel harder initially than a Chulilla 7a. The walk-in may be a factor especially if your knees continue to be a bit problematic. This also gets easier with practice (unless you’re a fell-runner). As per my previous post, it’s starting to be quite busy even outside the peak season (July-August).

These factors make it less ideal for a quick hit than a more extended trip when you have longer to adjust to the style. I’d also pay attention to European public holidays.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Sore leg club...

M: Rest
T: Walk along Stanage
W: Foundry with daughter - Bit of bouldering and some autos up to F6c+
T: Sore calf... Rested
F: Nowt
S: Slipstones - Lovely afternoon with the GF and her mate doing 5's and 6's - Nowt harder than 6C but surprisingly decent connies and not another person in sight.
S: Stayed in Saltburn and planned to go bolt clipping or surfing but GF was feeling poorly and the weather was crap... Drove home...

Meh... Calf strain I picked up in Verdon is still playing up, nothing too bad but just niggling... Feeling pretty low energy so not gonna fight it and have another chilled week before getting back on with it next week...

[SA Chris]

Are you doing anything for calf? Stretching, massaging, foam rolling?

[seankenny]

Seems like there’s a lot to go at in the 6a to 6c range. Is worth going there for just those routes.
Thinking of trying a quick 4 day hit and get a number of routes done on that amazing crag.

Although Ceuse is most famous for its mid 7s and up, it is still well worth visiting for a confident 6s to lower 7s leader. The ambience, the rock, and the climbing are all fabulous.

And now the caveats. The grades are firm, the bolting is sometimes a bit spaced, the style can take a little adjusting to, and the easier routes in the popular areas are starting to get polished. All this can make a Ceuse 6b+  feel harder initially than a Chulilla 7a. The walk-in may be a factor especially if your knees continue to be a bit problematic. This also gets easier with practice (unless you’re a fell-runner). As per my previous post, it’s starting to be quite busy even outside the peak season (July-August).

These factors make it less ideal for a quick hit than a more extended trip when you have longer to adjust to the style. I’d also pay attention to European public holidays.

This is very sensible advice, if you're not hill fit then it's going to be hard to do four days on as compared to going to a more easily accessible venue. It's a bit out of fashion but Buoux is great for a quick hit - it's close to either the airport or the TGV, super easy walk in, excellent climbing. A wide range of grades even if those grades don't quite correspond to what you'd find in Spain, I'd say it's better in the 6s than Ceuse.

Obviously not a summer venue though. There are plenty of other crags in the region that are good quick hit options, but don't make the mistake of thinking early Sept is "autumn" in Provence rather than "just a few days after August", unless you can really take the heat.

[Aussiegav]

S: Stayed in Saltburn and planned to go bolt clipping

Where is the sport climbing near Saltburn?

[Duncan Disorderly]

S: Stayed in Saltburn and planned to go bolt clipping

Where is the sport climbing near Saltburn?

There's not a lot tbh, we were going to drive over to Coudy Rock but it's Appleby horse fair this week so thought better of it as apparently it gets a bit rammed and rowdy... We did find these areas near Durham https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/jack_scar_skears_scar-28507/#overview and https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_forgotten_quarry-28283/#overview.... Got the PFD so will probably check them out later in the summer as gonna head over for a surf and see some mates, look a bit scrappy but you never know...

[Duncan Disorderly]

Are you doing anything for calf? Stretching, massaging, foam rolling?

Just trying to stretch it out... Probably should be doing the others too... 

[SA Chris]

foam rolling deffo, I've got a reviber zen massager that really helps tight or sore calves, or any other muscles

[Rocksteady]

Have been very slack on posting in Power Club recently, have weeks of training (and not training) to update on.

Highlights:
- 4 days in Magic Wood at end of May, first climbing-focused trip abroad since my son was born over 4 years ago. Made me realise how important it is for me to sometimes get away. Wasn't well-prepared for a few reasons below but flashed a couple of 6Cs which is good for me. Liked Switzerland and Magic Wood very much - it was very busy but never seemed too hard to get on something even on our own if we wanted. Found it frustratingly hard to find our way around though and the landings were awful. Also very stern on weaknesses - everything seemed to need high heels and hard pulling! Quite inspiring. Also stopped off on way back to airport at Murgtal which also seemed a good area to explore.
- Finger power to weight ratio is best ever. Am at similar levels of absolute strength to past but 3kg lighter.
- Getting back to best ever performance on my long-standing 50 degree board project at the Arch Acton. Just need to match the top hold. Feels like it will go.
- Back and neck issues a lot better, less tension headaches, less constant neckaches. Finally months/years of physio on this making improvements.

Lowlights:
- Have picked up an annoying tweak in left golfers elbow. Not getting much worse but not going away after 4 weeks or so now, will need to get physio.
- Caught Covid 3 weeks before going to Magic Wood. Kyboshed training even worse than the above. Not a bad dose at all by all accounts but just felt below par (and didn't want to spread it around or risk it getting worse) by going to the wall to train.
- Picked up a weird knee tweak leaving Magic Wood on the bouncy bridge up to Ausserferrera. Hasn't got much better in 2 weeks.

[shark]

Gneiss time in Mingulay!

M. Depressing morning weigh in. Late start . Home warm up. Tor. Cool temps. Worked on cross thru on Bens. Belayed Graham C on Sardine then led up Tin Of clean to last move where I cocked up my foot sequence and fell off going for break. Then TRed to near the top and fell firing off a side hold. Some more work on Bens which still elicited no insights. Rubicon to finish for a bit of traversing.

T.

W. PM/Eve Set of recruitment and speed pulls. Max hangs on ergo edge. Similar scores to last week

T.

F. Left Sheff at 5am in drizzle. Fortunately Simon K driving. Rendezvous with rest of team at Oban. Dazzling weather Swapped with a Sheffield team onto the small boat. Stunning boat ride out and stopped to see a basking shark which came within 20feet of the boat. Swapped with more Sheffielders when disembarking. Campsite in a stunning exposed position on the headland above a sandy cove.

S .Midgy in the morning. Schlepped over to Boulevard getting bombed by skewers (bonksies!) Cliff unfortunately was shrouded in sea mist and still in the shade.
Abbed in. Rock was wet but Simon K jumped onto Okeanos E3 5c, 4b which was very bold in the conditions. With the sun now on the crag and I went on A Word with the Bill E3 5c, 5a which started with a steep crack. Unfortunately it was still wet/greasy in the crack. I jumped off and lowered to the ground a couple of times spying a decent cam placement the second time. Third go with a cam clipped to my collar which I thought would fit I got through the crux and finished the pitch. Down again and Simon led the first pitch of Ossian E2 5b, 4b. I must have taken the wrong line on the top pitch as it was a lot harder.
Good first day though feet sorer than they needed to be as had forgotten to cut my toenails. Also good for my head to have jumped off on the gear.

S. Amazing weather. Hiked out to Dun Mingulay the premier crag of the island (and arguably the uk) Lot of faff
/discussion deciding on the abseil location. Got a bit impatient and went down first. Crag in the shade still and hard to work out the lines especially as I’d forgotten to swap my sunglasses for my normal specs. Seals took an interest. Climbing with Chris M and I got to do the first crux pitch of Call of the Sea E3 5c, 5b (billed in the guide as a top ten route to do before you die) with two mega 50m pitches. Route finding was a bit tricky going through some intimidating ground but the moves all turned out to be very steady. Shared a belay next to a pair of guillemots as the sun came on the face. Next pitch almost as good as the first up the juggy overhanging headwall. Watched as the other teams did Sula E2 5b, 5b, 5a and it looked amazing so went back down to do that. Chris did the first pitch and I lucked out getting the second. There was a bold section I felt comfortable on then ran it out again on the juggy upper wall. Amazing. Can’t think of a better route at the grade. Felt I got my trad mojo back doing this. Back to the campsite at 9pm with plenty of light still left.

M. Dun Mingulay with Chris again and late start as usual (it’s best in the evening). Great weather but cloudier towards end of day. Golden eagle (distant) and puffin tick on the slog in. Voyage of Faith E3 5b, 5b, 5b, 5c to start which took a phenomenal line out over a sea arch with seals below - strictly space shuffling! Keen for more we then did Hurried Path E3 5b, 5b, 5c which had some spicy sections on some great features with a perplexing and amazing double roof on the last pitch. Was in happy place all day on these stunning routes.

T. Great weather continues. Late morning started slogging up the hill with Chris but got called back by the others. Word had been passed on that there was bad patch of weather coming in and the small boat to the island wouldn’t be running so we needed to get off the island at 7pm that evening. Carried on to Hidden Wall (oystercatcher tick on the way in) so Chris could have a go at The Gull Who Shagged Me E3 5c. He bailed at what turned out to be the last move. We pulled the ropes and I led it. I’d already had a scope to the left of Hidden Wall and there looked to be new route potential so abbed down to check out the options. At the base I soloed back up an excellent easy ramp and crack system then led two further good 60foot routes taking strong lines. If not done they are now: The Pirate’s Alphabet (Severe), Partial to the Argh HVS 5b and The Sea is Closest to my Heart E2 5c.

Shame the trip was cut short but having had four full on days I’m more than happy. Finally got to where I wanted to be with my trad climbing ie enjoying it. 

[SA Chris]

Good job, glad you had a good trip. Shame it was cut short, but I've been camping on the coast on North Uist when a big storm has come through and it wasn't much fun, sleep didn't feature. And i hope you were bombed by skuas rather than skewers, as that might hurt a bit

[Teaboy]

Nice one Shark! Great that you got so much done and seemed to hit the ground running. Must have been the max hangs in the aero edge before you left that did it!

[shark]

Nice one Shark! Great that you got so much done and seemed to hit the ground running. Must have been the max hangs in the aero edge before you left that did it!

 

[Duma]

Sounds great Shark, nice one!

[Aussiegav]

It's a bit out of fashion but Buoux is great for a quick hit - it's close to either the airport or the TGV, super easy walk in, excellent climbing.

Thinking of last week in September. Going down on my motorcycle. What’s the likelihood of meeting some to climb with there?

[seankenny]

It's a bit out of fashion but Buoux is great for a quick hit - it's close to either the airport or the TGV, super easy walk in, excellent climbing.

Thinking of last week in September. Going down on my motorcycle. What’s the likelihood of meeting some to climb with there?

I’m probably not the best person to answer this but I imagine not that great midweek. It’s quite quiet. I imagine it’s better if you speak good French, though I don’t know what the French equivalent of UKC is or how they organise climbing partners when they don’t have any. When I’ve visited there’s never been an obvious van life scene like you see at Siurana or Chulilla.

[jwi]

I imagine it’s better if you speak good French, though I don’t know what the French equivalent of UKC is or how they organise climbing partners when they don’t have any.

WhatsApp or Facebook, alas.

I cannot think of a single crag in France with a "scene", except Céüse in the summer.

[abarro81]

Deverse at Loup definitely has a scene and is easy to pick up belays (but not much use below 8a)

It's a long time since I was at Buoux but I think it would be more tricky there...

[James Malloch]

Seems like there’s a lot to go at in the 6a to 6c range. Is worth going there for just those routes.
Thinking of trying a quick 4 day hit and get a number of routes done on that amazing crag.

Although Ceuse is most famous for its mid 7s and up, it is still well worth visiting for a confident 6s to lower 7s leader. The ambience, the rock, and the climbing are all fabulous.

And now the caveats. The grades are firm, the bolting is sometimes a bit spaced, the style can take a little adjusting to, and the easier routes in the popular areas are starting to get polished. All this can make a Ceuse 6b+  feel harder initially than a Chulilla 7a. The walk-in may be a factor especially if your knees continue to be a bit problematic. This also gets easier with practice (unless you’re a fell-runner). As per my previous post, it’s starting to be quite busy even outside the peak season (July-August).

These factors make it less ideal for a quick hit than a more extended trip when you have longer to adjust to the style. I’d also pay attention to European public holidays.

This is very sensible advice, if you're not hill fit then it's going to be hard to do four days on as compared to going to a more easily accessible venue. It's a bit out of fashion but Buoux is great for a quick hit - it's close to either the airport or the TGV, super easy walk in, excellent climbing. A wide range of grades even if those grades don't quite correspond to what you'd find in Spain, I'd say it's better in the 6s than Ceuse.

Obviously not a summer venue though. There are plenty of other crags in the region that are good quick hit options, but don't make the mistake of thinking early Sept is "autumn" in Provence rather than "just a few days after August", unless you can really take the heat.

The walk is a slog but I still think it would be worth it (for me). Yes you might only do 3-4 routes a day vs. more at a more accessible crag. But staying in the campsite, meeting lots of people, climbing some amazing routes is well worth it for me.

The walk isn’t that bad if you go up early (thorgal and other sectors have the shade earlier on). Then you just have the 20 mins walk across in the heat rather than the full slog in full sun.

I’d probably take a rest day in 4 days there but there are worse places to be for it.

[seankenny]

Yeah Ceuse is brilliant. I am just shit at walking up hills.