[Duma]

Power Club
M - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Few crunches and back bridges for knee, which although much improved from last Thursday's dodginess, is still well below average (which is itself a step below healthy since cider soak 2 years ago). Eve session, Cheddar, the Wave. Nipped across the road to try and tick off another from my cheddar 7a list to warm up, Dada. It's apparently soft but I slipped off damp holds after misreading the crux. Tbh it's not great, and we only had the eve, so stripped it without redpointing. Realised as I did that it's half term and you're not allowed on the South side, doh! Hopefully got away without arousing the wrath of either Cheddar Gorge and Caves, or Martin Crocker! Over on the Wave, got stuck into Greed a 7b+ I'd always dismissed as it's meant to be very reachy and doesn't get many ticks. The obvious crux is reachy, but I could just about span, and there's some really good moves before and after, finishing with a big move from crimps and a high foot to a flat finishing hold. Took a couple of goes to sort the sequence, but managed it 4th try, by the absolute skin of my teeth on the last move, very satisfying. Nipped up Billy Crystal a surprisingly ok 6b+ before dark to bring me one closer to ticking the Wave.
T - knee still a bit tweaky. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Walked to and from TCA in the hope it might help knee. Saw Jonny there who did something similar recently and passed on an exercise Huffy gave him so will try that for a few weeks. Tried to flash all the new purples (5 - 6B), failed on one, mainly as still warming up and not concentrating. Amusing how much easier this was than the orange circuit I did in font a couple of weeks ago. Knee rehab in eve.
W - Knee rehab in morning. Drive to Portland pm, chill in campsite with more knee rehab and 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
T - Knee rehab in morning. Coastguard North, planned South but got distracted after walking down. I've done a lot of the routes here 20 years ago, but still a few gaps. The Man Who Never Found Himself (6a+) to warm up, then dropped the last move of Van People (7a) on OS, steady 2nd go. Managed an OS of Spare Rib (7b) before lunch. Swim and a sandwich, then got Prison Sex (7c+) 3rd go. Weather was great, every route I did was amazing, and felt like I was climbing well. Lush day.
F - knee rehab in morning. Blacknor South/Far South. Bit more cloud around but still warm and dry. Did a 5 ( It's My Life) by the descent but then moved away from the crowds to Far South. Rag n Bone Man 6b, then 3 excellent 7a+'s on the left: Bushwacked dropped the OS but ok 2nd go, The Singing Bush satisfyingly easy flash, and best of the lot Chaos UK slipped off a smear on the OS, only just got it next go.
S - Knee rehab in morning. Coastguard again. OS a newer line at North Payback Day 6c+, looks a bit squeezed in but climbs well and independently. Then round to coastguard South, so good here! Xavier's Wall 6a for another warm up, then tried the gloriously named Full Fathom Five 7b, guessed wrong on the OS, then took a while to work out the crux. Managed it 2nd go, but felt a struggle in the heat. Last route was Bermuda Triangle 6c, initial cherty steepness leads to a complete change of scene at half height with a brilliant slab to finish. Messed about too long at the bottom on the OS (suspect energy levels were pretty low by this point too) and failed at the 2nd bolt, but it was so good that doing it again was a pleasure.
S - exhausted so drove home

Excellent long weekend, great to come back to Portland after many years away. The new campsite (sweet hill farm) is a real bonus, perfect location (walking distance from loads of the best crags) and makes it a much more appealing destination for the weekend

71.5 kg
2022 plank total 155 min

[Aussiegav]

Thanks Duma.

Monday -

Rehab finger protocol. Half crimp lifts with 5kg & holding a lattice edge every 3hrs.  5s:10s work rest ratio. 10 lifts. Finger slightly tender on massaging. Did these during work whilst sitting at the desk.

Did 45min power zone ride on the Peloton after dinner.

Tuesday
630 start. Checked in to theatre admissions. Sat around and waited. Read a bit  and did rehab protocol while I waited.

Knee Operation, went in around 930am. Came home around 4:45pm. Codiene made me feel sick.




Wednesday -
Rehab protocol as per Monday.
Started post op knee exercises.

Thursday - Rehab for finger & knee

Friday -
rehab protocol for finger & knee. finger feeling better. Upper weight from 5kg to 12.7kg

Saturday -
Rehab both affected parts. Crutches are ditched. Hobbling around more efficiently

Sunday.
Same as yesterday.
Starting to feel a bit fed up due inactivity. Can’t wait to do more.

[Wellsy]

Monday - rest

Tuesday - Moonboard session at the Depot, felt pretty great. Did some purples after

Wednesday - evening more chill Depot session just flashing the entire black circuit

Thursday - Pleasley Vale. Did The Pinch 7A, emotional roller coaster. Fingerboarded and Weighted pullups in the evening, 3 x 5 (25kgs added)

Friday to Sunday - at the UKGE so taking a few rest days and having this week as a training break. Back on it next week. Happy with The Pinch, great moves and a good problem

[Fiend]

AussieGav - what knee op did you have??

Wellsy - tell me that the G in UKGE stands for "goth"  Also the Pinch is cool, I managed it a few years back, was quite a fight, I might have had to use footwork and all. Is it still intact after there was a fire lit beneath it??

[spidermonkey09]

 Good beta re the campsite Duma. I haven't been to Portland for years but might go for a few days in July. I was always put off camping there by the outrageous prices, is this one any better/worse? They were charging today's camping prices 10 years ago so I sort of dread to ask! 

[Coops_13]

M: More Crested Butte exploring before the drive home

T: 1 mile local walk. 50 ab-wheel roll-outs. G1. Hangs: 20mm HC & OH 7s BW, +10lb, +25lb, +35lb, +45lb, +50lb. Kilterboard 45deg 2V4, 5V5, 5V6. Shoulder press 45lb, bicep curl 40lb, chest press 50lb X6 *3sets. 10 mins stairmaster.

T: 1 mile local walk. G1. Hangs: 20mm HC & OH 7s BW, +15lb, +30lb, +40lb, +45lb, +50lb, +55lb. Kilterboard 50deg 1V4, 7V5, 3V6.

S: Hike up to Emerald Lake, RMNP with Mum

S: Emerald Lake. Back a second day to climb this time. Warmed up and repeated The Kind V5 twice before heading over to check out Real Large V9. Way too hard for me right now but went from being unable to do a single move to linking the first three together! Psyched. Will return in a month to check in on progress. Finished with some pottering over on the Cube boulder sending a V4 and V5 that I've done before

[Aussiegav]

AussieGav - what knee op did you have??

Arthroscopy- torn anterior/lateral cartilage on the right knee

[remus]

Good beta re the campsite Duma. I haven't been to Portland for years but might go for a few days in July. I was always put off camping there by the outrageous prices, is this one any better/worse? They were charging today's camping prices 10 years ago so I sort of dread to ask! 

I think it was about £10 pppn when I was there last year. Might have changed in the meantime as we were there just as covid rules were being relaxed so imagine it may have gotten busier since.

I'd second Duma's recommendation. It's handy just having somewhere to park given the council seems intent on making parking anywhere else on Portland as painful as possible.

[James Malloch]

Power Club
M - 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Few crunches and back bridges for knee, which although much improved from last Thursday's dodginess, is still well below average (which is itself a step below healthy since cider soak 2 years ago). Eve session, Cheddar, the Wave. Nipped across the road to try and tick off another from my cheddar 7a list to warm up, Dada. It's apparently soft but I slipped off damp holds after misreading the crux. Tbh it's not great, and we only had the eve, so stripped it without redpointing. Realised as I did that it's half term and you're not allowed on the South side, doh! Hopefully got away without arousing the wrath of either Cheddar Gorge and Caves, or Martin Crocker! Over on the Wave, got stuck into Greed a 7b+ I'd always dismissed as it's meant to be very reachy and doesn't get many ticks. The obvious crux is reachy, but I could just about span, and there's some really good moves before and after, finishing with a big move from crimps and a high foot to a flat finishing hold. Took a couple of goes to sort the sequence, but managed it 4th try, by the absolute skin of my teeth on the last move, very satisfying. Nipped up Billy Crystal a surprisingly ok 6b+ before dark to bring me one closer to ticking the Wave.
T - knee still a bit tweaky. 2 min plank with variations and press ups. Walked to and from TCA in the hope it might help knee. Saw Jonny there who did something similar recently and passed on an exercise Huffy gave him so will try that for a few weeks. Tried to flash all the new purples (5 - 6B), failed on one, mainly as still warming up and not concentrating. Amusing how much easier this was than the orange circuit I did in font a couple of weeks ago. Knee rehab in eve.
W - Knee rehab in morning. Drive to Portland pm, chill in campsite with more knee rehab and 2 min plank with variations and press ups.
T - Knee rehab in morning. Coastguard North, planned South but got distracted after walking down. I've done a lot of the routes here 20 years ago, but still a few gaps. The Man Who Never Found Himself (6a+) to warm up, then dropped the last move of Van People (7a) on OS, steady 2nd go. Managed an OS of Spare Rib (7b) before lunch. Swim and a sandwich, then got Prison Sex (7c+) 3rd go. Weather was great, every route I did was amazing, and felt like I was climbing well. Lush day.
F - knee rehab in morning. Blacknor South/Far South. Bit more cloud around but still warm and dry. Did a 5 ( It's My Life) by the descent but then moved away from the crowds to Far South. Rag n Bone Man 6b, then 3 excellent 7a+'s on the left: Bushwacked dropped the OS but ok 2nd go, The Singing Bush satisfyingly easy flash, and best of the lot Chaos UK slipped off a smear on the OS, only just got it next go.
S - Knee rehab in morning. Coastguard again. OS a newer line at North Payback Day 6c+, looks a bit squeezed in but climbs well and independently. Then round to coastguard South, so good here! Xavier's Wall 6a for another warm up, then tried the gloriously named Full Fathom Five 7b, guessed wrong on the OS, then took a while to work out the crux. Managed it 2nd go, but felt a struggle in the heat. Last route was Bermuda Triangle 6c, initial cherty steepness leads to a complete change of scene at half height with a brilliant slab to finish. Messed about too long at the bottom on the OS (suspect energy levels were pretty low by this point too) and failed at the 2nd bolt, but it was so good that doing it again was a pleasure.
S - exhausted so drove home

Excellent long weekend, great to come back to Portland after many years away. The new campsite (sweet hill farm) is a real bonus, perfect location (walking distance from loads of the best crags) and makes it a much more appealing destination for the weekend

71.5 kg
2022 plank total 155 min

Sounds like a great week! I’m keen for a Portland trip this summer so good to know about the campsite.

Is there a certain guide you would want for the sport down there?

[AJM]

Sounds like a great week! I’m keen for a Portland trip this summer so good to know about the campsite.

Is there a certain guide you would want for the sport down there?

The Dorset Rockfax is about the only choice really in terms of things that are up to date.

[James Malloch]

M. Berlin Wall. Standard 20 min warm up (really happy with this routine now) and then got Petite Illusion 7a+ putting the draws in. 3rd go off the trip and felt so easy after a rest day. Next I have Galaxy 7c a go. Dropped the last move of the Boulder on the flash and then went bolt to bolt to the chains. Really cool route. Afterwards did the 6b Coup des Blues pour Dom and 6b+ super Mario. Good day!

T. Rest day.

W. Had a bunch of goes on Galaxy but kept dropping the same move. Gave up and did Bonney and Clyde 6c as Zora wanted to try. She got it 3rd go on TR. Hardest outdoor route so really psyched! I gave Lapinerie a go and messed the top up, got a sequence but didn’t have time for a RP. Also tried Equinox 6c but fell going over the roof (bad beta).

T. Un Éléphant ça Trompe Énormément 6c On the grand face - really cool route. La Fin d'un Primitif 7a+. First time I’ve onsighted this grade for 5 years so happy with it! Given 7B on UKC but both local guides have 7a+.

F. Rest day. Swim and dinner with some of the brits out here.

S. Nitshapa. Managed Petit Remède à l'inertie second go. Hard crux! Given 7b in the guide but written as 7b+ at the start of the route. Either way, my first 7b in Ceuse and hardest I’ve climbed this trip. Nice for it to feel okay and go so quickly. 7b normally take a few RPs for me. Finished with the 6a En Attendant Janote.

S. End of Ceuse for us (for now). Now in Briancon visiting a friend and maybe some Bouldering. Zora lost her sport head so has been top roping. Annoying for her and meant I’ve been trying more easier routes. Been super fun though so no complaints here. Time for a change and a bit of bouldering. Maybe 2-3 days here and then either Daone in Italy or Magic Wood. Want to be in the Frankenjura in 10 days for a long weekend and then we have a few weeks of family things before starting the journey back to the U.K. - think we’ll book a ferry on 8th July.

Worked it out the other day and we’ve basically had day on day off since we set off. 9 days of bouldering and 19 sport. Feeling good now but a bit of a break will probably be good too.

[duncan]

Good luck with the knee Gav. Portland camping is a basic field with cold tap and toilet and is £10 a person. As Duma says, the location is ideal. The Dorset Rockfax is the guide to get: it’s written by Pete Oxley so is original work by the most important developer and also the most up-to-date.

M - Céüse, Un pont sur l'infini. Walk-in took 1.45 hours. Did a couple of easy routes, still running out of puff very quickly.
T - Rest day. Shoulder conditioning.
W - Céüse, base of the Grand Face. Slow to walk in again. Warmed-up on the easy slab routes, then did Trous Line and Tabernacle, little bits of Spain in the Hautes Alps. Hyperventilating for minutes after each route. Very slow to descend and wiped-out after the day.
T - Sore thumb (pocket pinching syndrome).
F - Less sore thumb.
S - Céüse, Les Maîtres du Monde. Walk-in took 1.25 hours and felt a bit easier. Crag was busy. Apparently it was a long weekend in Italy, it certainly sounded like it! Did three 6a+/bs, could have done more but played the longer game. A good day.
S - Another of the team was struggling with the walk-in so we decided to check-out Orpierre. Warmed-up on La Moulinette and Poupoupidou (6a+, felt like 6b or 6b+) then tried La Semaine Prochaine … but managed to Z-clip on the crux. Not Céüse bolting! Finally did the excellent Y'a Plus de Limites (a punchy 6b). Orpierre has good climbing, was reasonably cool from mid afternoon, and a little busy (it was a Sunday). The polish on the easy routes was a bit off putting and the 6s are graded according to the original French scale which may bother some.

Céüse has been great and I am gradually regaining some climbing and general fitness. I was here in early June in 2004 and 2016 and this year it’s been a lot busier. It’s still manageable, especially if you’re happy to walk east a bit. If you have a specific target at Berlin or Demi Lune it might be a bit much. I hate to think what it will be like in August. 

[Duma]

Good beta re the campsite Duma. I haven't been to Portland for years but might go for a few days in July. I was always put off camping there by the outrageous prices, is this one any better/worse? They were charging today's camping prices 10 years ago so I sort of dread to ask! 

https://sweethillfarm.co.uk/
Was about £10pppn

Pretty basic, field with compost loos and a tea van, but they were just building showers last week, and had beer and food stall on the weekend eves. Given how shite all the pubs on the island are (cove house excepted), and the perfect location, it's a bargain! Walking distance from everywhere except the cuttings and Blacknor North I reckon.

[Duma]

Sounds like a great week! I’m keen for a Portland trip this summer so good to know about the campsite.

Is there a certain guide you would want for the sport down there?

The Dorset Rockfax is about the only choice really in terms of things that are up to date.

This is the one

Edit, what Duncan said re Pete Oxley too!
Also, not sure if my guide is the most up to date edition, but if you want to do the Uber classics Walking the King or Quick as Rainbows, be aware the trench beyond Bermuda Triangle almost never dries out, despite the guide claiming otherwise - be prepared to wade!

[Duma]

Great weeks Céüse crew! Seem to have really hit your stride James, and Duncan, good to hear the fitness/respiration improving, great you've got so much out of this trip, esp considering the scare a couple of weeks ago.
Good luck with recovery Gav!

[spidermonkey09]

Cheers for the beta re campsite, sounds like a gamechanger.

When do the European school holidays run? I'll be there 23rd Aug to 6th September so was hoping I might miss the worst of it. Still, it is what it is!

[James Malloch]

Cheers for the beta re campsite, sounds like a gamechanger.

When do the European school holidays run? I'll be there 23rd Aug to 6th September so was hoping I might miss the worst of it. Still, it is what it is!

Just remembered we bumped into some Aussies in Ceuse. Asked randomly if we knew you, Jim. A lady called Kat from Tazmania. She also knew the knew the one person knew from Tazmania. Small world!

[James Malloch]

Sounds like a great week! I’m keen for a Portland trip this summer so good to know about the campsite.

Is there a certain guide you would want for the sport down there?

The Dorset Rockfax is about the only choice really in terms of things that are up to date.

This is the one

Edit, what Duncan said re Pete Oxley too!
Also, not sure if my guide is the most up to date edition, but if you want to do the Uber classics Walking the King or Quick as Rainbows, be aware the trench beyond Bermuda Triangle almost never dries out, despite the guide claiming otherwise - be prepared to wade!

Cheers! I’ve got the Rockfax subscription so will stick with that one. Probably only have a very short trip unless i don’t manage to get a french visa. Looks like a great place.

[SA Chris]

When do the European school holidays run?

Different countries close down for national holidays at different times. I don't even think all the parts of France are the same.

[mr chaz]

Power Club:

M.
T.
W.
T. Evening session - warmup, 3x max hangs, woodie.
F.
S.
S. DIY all day. Evening session - warmup, straight onto woodie. Cruised my project from previous session first try, probably the hardest basic pulling problem on the board yet. Polished off another project after a few more goes and did a new one on the pinches.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxing bag, speed EMOM sets.
Tue - garage session 3. Clean double at 77 kg (training 1 RM). Volume at 80%. Press two singles at 53 (training 1 RM). Like a beast from hell.
Wed - high pulls x5, snatch x5, overhead carry x1', all x8.
Thu - farmer's static holds 1' + hill sprint x8.
Fri - boxing bag, speed EMOM sets.
Sat - 25' of loaded carries: farmer's 80 kg 1' + rest 30" + shoulder 30" + overhead 1' 30 kg. All x 10.
Sun - boxing bag, rope skipping, light jog.

[jwi]

When do the European school holidays run?

Different countries close down for national holidays at different times. I don't even think all the parts of France are the same.

For the summer holidays, in France all zones have vacation until 2 sep. (The other school holidays varies).

[Aussiegav]

Great reading, especially on Ceuse. Seems like there’s a lot to go at in the 6a to 6c range. Is worth going there for just those routes.
Thinking of trying a quick 4 day hit and get a number of routes done on that amazing crag.

[James Malloch]

Great reading, especially on Ceuse. Seems like there’s a lot to go at in the 6a to 6c range. Is worth going there for just those routes.
Thinking of trying a quick 4 day hit and get a number of routes done on that amazing crag.

I think so. The main problem you will have it queueing for routes at busy times but there’s always something to get on.

[SA Chris]

Have look at UKC, lots in that range and some sectors laden with quality 6es, especially if you don't mind a bit more of a walk.