It’s in the roof right next to the sadly no longer existing Ache Ball. Hartland Quay. A venue with a whole lot of quality 8+ boulders.remus said:New one from Solly Kembal Dory called Megalodon (at Heartland quay?) He's suggested 8B+.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ce3qT9Nj0fc/
Duma said:Is this the thing Squire has been trying?
What happened to Ache Ball Grant?
Ache Ball died :wavecry: quite a long time ago, still gets logged on UKC every now and then though. It should start on a double undercutty ish feature low on the arete making a hard move right hand into the crimp on the overhanging face. This start has simply fallen off and therefore impossible. It has also developed a big hold near the arete that makes it much easier to move to the 'jug' on the overhanging face. People are starting right hand in the crimp and using the new extra hold (why wouldn't you), around 6b this way..the original 8a/7c+ problem is simply not possible anymore.Duma said:Is this the thing Squire has been trying?
What happened to Ache Ball Grant?
andy moles said:Be cool if this thread was used not just for hard ascents but also new things of significant quality.
andy moles said:Be cool if this thread was used not just for hard ascents but also new things of significant quality.
BrutusTheBear said:Ache Ball died :wavecry: quite a long time ago, still gets logged on UKC every now and then though. It should start on a double undercutty ish feature low on the arete making a hard move right hand into the crimp on the overhanging face. This start has simply fallen off and therefore impossible. It has also developed a big hold near the arete that makes it much easier to move to the 'jug' on the overhanging face. People are starting right hand in the crimp and using the new extra hold (why wouldn't you), around 6b this way..the original 8a/7c+ problem is simply not possible anymore.Duma said:Is this the thing Squire has been trying?
What happened to Ache Ball Grant?
Bradders said:Whilst we're on very hard new things, Matt Fultz has put up a new 8C+, which to me just looks to be a "big grades for bad beta" version of Jade. Significant though since those are some very small grips for a big chap.
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CfUxqupPIH9/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Note: watching with the sound on could easily be misconstrued as a bit NSFW...
Bradders said:Whilst we're on very hard new things, Matt Fultz has put up a new 8C+, which to me just looks to be a "big grades for bad beta" version of Jade. Significant though since those are some very small grips for a big chap.
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CfUxqupPIH9/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Note: watching with the sound on could easily be misconstrued as a bit NSFW...
remus said:That'd be right at home at the tor.
edshakey said:Not all significant FAs have to be hard, but hard ones are usually significant for at least that reason.
Nomura Shinichiro, Gakido, 8C+. Nice riverside setting too, looks beautiful. Never heard of the guy, one of many Japanese crushers.
https://youtu.be/rN5Z3V4QYtA
Only 3 sessions too! Crazy quick to establish a boulder of that difficulty. I wonder how fast he's managed other things, must be tearing it up in Japan.