[Muenchener]

Apparently you don't get the required endurance for stamina 9bs and 9cs without training.

... or for winning multiple lead world cup seasons.

I once watched a boulder world cup semifinal in the morning, in which Kim Jain placed 10th. Went to the wall in the afternoon, and, having no final to compete in, there she was instead running laps on the hardest route they had at the time (which iirc was about an 8b)

[remus]

Looks like James Squire joined the 9a (sport) club yesterday with the FA of The World is Not Enough in Medonnet https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/medonnet-9969/the_world_is_not_enough-684807

[shark]

Was surprised as I think of him as a boulderer so had to laugh when I read in the description that it is a bolted line up a large boulder.

[remus]

Gotta play to your strengths 

[remus]

UKB denizen Adam Lincoln has added a direct finish to Gigantic (an existing E8 at Wilton 1) which he's called Ginourmous. A touch harder than Gigantic apparently but not quite enough to nudge it in to E9.

[Fultonius]

Was surprised as I think of him as a boulderer so had to laugh when I read in the description that it is a bolted line up a large boulder.

I was also curious, having been to Medonnet I was wondering where there would be any sport routes. Nice wee boulder spot.

[Fiend]

UKB denizen Adam Lincoln has added a direct finish to Gigantic (an existing E8 at Wilton 1) which he's called Ginourmous. A touch harder than Gigantic apparently but not quite enough to nudge it in to E9.

Up the blunt arete one presumes?? Good stuff.

Now someone needs to do the Chocolate Girl - Gigantic/Ginormous link, the holds are there...

[remus]

Im not too familiar with where the original goes but there's a pic on his IG stories of the new line https://www.instagram.com/stories/alincoln79/3083907893434809597/

[Adam Lincoln]

UKB denizen Adam Lincoln has added a direct finish to Gigantic (an existing E8 at Wilton 1) which he's called Ginourmous. A touch harder than Gigantic apparently but not quite enough to nudge it in to E9.

Up the blunt arete one presumes?? Good stuff.

Now someone needs to do the Chocolate Girl - Gigantic/Ginormous link, the holds are there...

Thanks Fiend, another local project to look at! Now that would be hard. The transition into the holds from chocolate girl is thin. Would be an incredible line..

As for Ginormous, yes, same up to where Gigantic goes off left, but instead you keep going up the blunt arete to a pop for the top of the crag. Even more scary when rope is behind your leg 

[rginns]

UKB denizen Adam Lincoln has added a direct finish to Gigantic (an existing E8 at Wilton 1) which he's called Ginourmous. A touch harder than Gigantic apparently but not quite enough to nudge it in to E9.

Up the blunt arete one presumes?? Good stuff.

Now someone needs to do the Chocolate Girl - Gigantic/Ginormous link, the holds are there...

Thanks Fiend, another local project to look at! Now that would be hard. The transition into the holds from chocolate girl is thin. Would be an incredible line..

As for Ginormous, yes, same up to where Gigantic goes off left, but instead you keep going up the blunt arete to a pop for the top of the crag. Even more scary when rope is behind your leg 

That sounds potentially horiffic!
Good effort on that one Adam
Dave seemed psyched to have seen you do it

[SA Chris]

.A touch harder than Gigantic apparently but not quite enough to nudge it in to E9.

Verified by science / egrader? Can't just give these things numbers willy nilly

Nice one Adam.

[SA Chris]

Was surprised as I think of him as a boulderer so had to laugh when I read in the description that it is a bolted line up a large boulder.

I was also curious, having been to Medonnet I was wondering where there would be any sport routes. Nice wee boulder spot.

Full details on his IG (beastlysquirrel, sorry, can't link, work blocks it). Looks cool.

[remus]

Another 8C+ for Aidan https://www.instagram.com/p/CrdQTLVNW4u/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[warmonke]

Another 8C+ for Aidan https://www.instagram.com/p/CrdQTLVNW4u/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

I'm assuming this is the one he was talking about in his podcast a little while ago? Sounds like pretty interesting movement so hopefully there's some footage

[Sasquatch]

Another 8C+ for Aidan https://www.instagram.com/p/CrdQTLVNW4u/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

I believe there is footage of several people working this in this video.  Also a bunch of people working the other two FA's he refers to. 

[Fiend]

Nothing remotely "mellow" about that video 

[remus]

Another 8C+ for Aidan https://www.instagram.com/p/CrdQTLVNW4u/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

I'm assuming this is the one he was talking about in his podcast a little while ago? Sounds like pretty interesting movement so hopefully there's some footage

That's the one. Podcast here https://open.spotify.com/episode/4tiWiDzWnbMN2PKUoFQC1Y?si=ed7f7c3fc39240e5 if anyone wants a listen.

[warmonke]

Nothing remotely "mellow" about that video 

I dunno, Dave Graham and his massive spliff are looking pretty mellow

[remus]

New one called 'Olwen' from James Taylor and Franco on Painted Wall. Sounds about 8a+ with some spicy sections, or E9 6c in old money.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr8vPofNmjA/

[andy moles]

New one called 'Olwen' from James Taylor and Franco on Painted Wall. Sounds about 8a+ with some spicy sections, or E9 6c in old money.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cr8vPofNmjA/

Cool addition. Firming up as one of the UK's premier sprad venues! (not that this route is any way hybrid AFAIK)

[El Mocho]

Nice one James, nice name as well.

Cool addition. Firming up as one of the UK's premier sprad venues! (not that this route is any way hybrid AFAIK)

I think I went on this a month or so back (I went down shunting on my own and due to inability to remember route descriptions I thought this was Caffs E6 and had a right spanking. From my shit dog up it 8a+ and E9 felt bob on, and great climbing. I felt a lot better when I got home and worked out it was a proj not an E6...). If it was this I was on it shared the first few bolts with the line to the left, but from then on is on natural gear. There is a decent undercut rest before the top crux section where it looks like you get some ok cams but it would be a fairly big fall onto this and really bad if they/the flake ripped.

I know this maybe isn't the correct thread for the bolt-peg debate but the day I went there was a bunch of drill dust and a new bolt (with still wet resin) on the crux of Painted groove (as I worked out it was afterwards!). The new bolt is in a much better place to clip but is nowhere near a natural crack/old peg placement. I did then see what looked like the old bolt-peg placement down and to the right (in a bit of a crack, now just a hole covered in resin). It would be a pig to clip here. The old placement might also have been in reach from this new route? Not sure if that has any relevance to why it was moved?

Sorry, not meaning to turn this into a debate about ethics when it's a thread celebrating hard new shit, but it did seem a bit relevant to the route.

Also this was my first time here, and as you can tell I didn't really know what was what so my info may all be incorrect, an occurrence which is pretty common for me.

[JamesTaylor]

It is a hybrid route. You follow the sport route for 3 bolts then head strait up where the sport route goes hard left. Its a good runout from the 3rd bolt which is at around 5m, the next gear that's any good is at the flake undercuts at about 9m so perhaps some ground scrapers if you bin it (I did place a slider in a broken pocket mid runout but I don't trust it at all). Good gear in the 9m flake and another runout of 6m to clip the final bolt of the sport route. There is a 6b/6c sequence to get to the holds you clip the last bolt from so good whip on the cards from there. The route has 4 bolts in total but I wouldn't describe it as being very safe.

I felt it was a fair bit harder than the sport route that is considered 8a so thought 8a+ was fair. Egrader coughed up E10 when I looked but its defiantly not and probably even a softy at E9. Jim time will tell.

[northern yob]

 

I know this maybe isn't the correct thread for the bolt-peg debate but the day I went there was a bunch of drill dust and a new bolt (with still wet resin) on the crux of Painted groove (as I worked out it was afterwards!). The new bolt is in a much better place to clip but is nowhere near a natural crack/old peg placement. I did then see what looked like the old bolt-peg placement down and to the right (in a bit of a crack, now just a hole covered in resin). It would be a pig to clip here. The old placement might also have been in reach from this new route? Not sure if that has any relevance to why it was moved.

 

[remus]

Emma Twyford has added a new 8b+ to LPT she's called Deux Mauvais Melons https://www.instagram.com/p/CsBtOCerfrH/

It's a link up that does the start of Meloncholie in to bad, bad boy and then finishes up pas de deux. Looks like a lovey straight line up the wall though (to my untrained eye).

Hardest FA by a woman in the UK?

[Duncan campbell]

Nice!! This is the training link for the biggie which is to do melanchollie to the bad bad boy traverse then head into pas de deux which Emma was saying would be 8c+

She was looking close a few weeks ago - great to see she got it done