[tk421a]

what shoes is he wearing in those shots?

Looks like left foot Chimera (old colour) and right foot Mago (last colour blue / green)

[sherlock]

That looks incredible. Hope theres some footage.

Fairly sure there isn't, unfortunately. It went down surprisingly quickly on the day but I'm sure Dan will clarify in due course.

[Ian T]

Here's Richie Betts on it, way back in 2008. IIRC he was coming into the line from Malc's and pulled all the pebbles off.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/7538425@N05/2407626226/

[SA Chris]

Lucky pebbles.

[Duncan campbell]

That looks incredible. Hope theres some footage.

Fairly sure there isn't, unfortunately. It went down surprisingly quickly on the day but I'm sure Dan will clarify in due course.

I’d settle for some nearly-but-not-quite footage tbh. Or even a hash of him trying it/ doing sections.

[Fiend]

Cool shots, some  moves there.

[SA Chris]

Dan has some words down on it.

https://scottishbloc.com/2023/03/09/news-the-magna-strata/

[MischaHY]

Success is a death too, the real gold was that flow through the face. My word that’s a beautiful bit of rock, I think I’ll always be glad to look at that face as an old fart. The strata looking like a clinker built hull guiding the eye off down to Malc’s Arête, undoubtedly a world class problem in itself. The Mission with its bow shaped rail and that floaty French start move. The pebbles and the ripples of strata echoing a frozen shore. Finally it’s a challenge for boulderers as well, we can be the dancers on the frozen shore.

Nicely put, Dan.

[Duma]

"I could go in depth about transferring between frictional, gravitational and muscular oppositions in smooth transitional vectors but I’ll spare you the Dawes."


lol

[Fiend]

"I could go in depth about transferring between frictional, gravitational and muscular oppositions in smooth transitional vectors but I’ll spare you the Dawes."


lol

Magnificent. Great report, great ascent, it's the Meltdown of bouldering IMO.

[scragrock]

Dan's a guid C**t eh

[remus]

Just listening to Sam and Aidan's podcast and there's mention of a new one Aidan's put up on the Vecchio Leone bloc (<- just to annoy fiend) that links in to an existing 7B called Vecchio Brione. No name or grade yet but sounds like it took him a few sessions so I can't imagine it's easy.

[Muenchener]

Is a 5.14d R trad route in the Gunks significant? Still not that many 9a trad routes about afaik

https://www.instagram.com/p/CptUgOdufR2/

[Fiend]

Looks like it to me!!

[cheque]

Isn’t everything in the Gunks meant to be sandbagged by about a number grade too?! Or does that just apply to the lower grades?

Has anyone on here climbed there? It seems to be one of those American areas that Europeans rarely visit.

[User deactivated.]

Just listening to Sam and Aidan's podcast and there's mention of a new one Aidan's put up on the Vecchio Leone bloc (<- just to annoy fiend) that links in to an existing 7B called Vecchio Brione. No name or grade yet but sounds like it took him a few sessions so I can't imagine it's easy.

I love how Aidan putting more than 2 days into something new is automatically a significant ascent and can be assumed to be at least 8C.

[remus]

New one for Dai Koyamada. Mugen 8C and 9A platform building skills.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CqFvbqrPEc9/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

[warmonke]

New one for Dai Koyamada. Mugen 8C and 9A platform building skills.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CqFvbqrPEc9/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

Very cool problem, must have been a nightmare to get planning permission to build that landing

[duncan]

Sharma has climbed his Sleeping Lion project on El Pati. 9b or 9b+. The victory whoops were audible in Cornudella.

[remus]

Mega. 15 years after he climbed his first 9b with Jumbo Love and his 9th 9b or harder, 8 of which are first ascents.

[spidermonkey09]

 The King!

[Duncan campbell]

How old is Sharma? Great stuff that he’s still climbing so hard - imagine what Ondra will be doing in years to come!

[Fiend]

Sharma has climbed his Sleeping Lion project on El Pati. 9b or 9b+. The victory whoops were audible in Cornudella.

Did he say hi though??

Also that's bloody ace. Life in the old beast yet!! 

[jwi]

The route is described here

[remus]

How old is Sharma? Great stuff that he’s still climbing so hard - imagine what Ondra will be doing in years to come!

He's 41.

https://climbing-history.org/climber/493/chris-sharma