[Moo]

Everyone said the same thing about Dreamtime 22 years ago but it's still a benchmark 

[remus]

What/were is the Megatron project, the other rumoured 9A?

It's a low start to an existing Daniel.Woods problem called Tron. Grade maths is about 8C in to 8B+.

I think there might be a vid of d woods trying it somewhere?

https://climbing-history.org/climb/1147/megatron-project

[SA Chris]

James Franco is definitely climbing well at the moment. Good vid.

[Bradders]

The video description and this write up in Gripped have annoyed me a bit;

https://gripped.com/profiles/shawn-raboutou-announces-ascent-of-alphane-v17/

It's not the world's third 9A... it's the fourth! Yes Nico Pelorson implied 8C+, but what he said was;

I think there are many climbers in the world who could climb the boulder with enough investment and that would not be the case with a real 9a boulder. But that's just my personal opinion, I respect Simon Lorenzi's opinion. Especially because the boulder could have been a bit more difficult with its body size.

I.e. it could still be 9A depending on your size and just because people could do it with investment doesn't mean it's not worth the grade.

Plus, I think more importantly, it was then re-confirmed at 9A by Camille Coudert. Which means if anything, it's the only 9A in the world to have been confirmed, the only one to have been repeated, and the only one with any consensus.

I get why you'd ignore No Kpote Only, as that's had several repeats with all downgrading it, but Soudain Seul as far as I'm concerned is worthy of inclusion unless it gets further repeats suggesting 8C+.

[teestub]

Hang on I thought on the other thread we had to be honest with ourselves and take the lower grade 😄

[Teaboy]

Hang on I thought on the other thread we had to be honest with ourselves and take the lower grade 😄

What he’s saying is no one will think less of you if you do take 9A for this so crack in!

[Bradders]

Hang on I thought on the other thread we had to be honest with ourselves and take the lower grade 😄

Well I haven't done it yet so 

[36chambers]

His breakdown of 8C into 8C or 8C+ pops out of darth grader at 9c+.
Intriguing

The hardest climb in the world is now irrefutably a boulder problem! Take that Ondra! with you're "9b is about as hard as 8C+, but I've done 9c so I clearly climb harder than all the boulderers" (please don't ask me to verify what he actually said, this might just be a fabrication of my imagination )

[User deactivated.]

His breakdown of 8C into 8C or 8C+ pops out of darth grader at 9c+.
Intriguing

The hardest climb in the world is now irrefutably a boulder problem! Take that Ondra! with you're "9b is about as hard as 8C+, but I've done 9c so I clearly climb harder than all the boulderers" (please don't ask me to verify what he actually said, this might just be a fabrication of my imagination )

Interesting, because rightly or wrongly, I was thinking Ondra would be all over Alphane - long, varied grips and lots of hard positions. I wouldn't give him as much chance on BOD though.

[AMorris]

Alternative view for the thread:

Maybe Shawn is actually far from the anti-insta low-profile wad we thought he was: he's just waited months to announce a boulder, timed perfectly with a full film release. Top quality marketing for maximum views right there 

Shawn being silent about it for so long intrigued me, but I just put it down to some kind of artsy 40 minute vid largely consisting of grainy black and white close ups and shots of strategically placed mellow merch (deeply cynical, I know) being in the pipeline.

Don't say I didn't warn you!

[remus]

Interesting, because rightly or wrongly, I was thinking Ondra would be all over Alphane - long, varied grips and lots of hard positions. I wouldn't give him as much chance on BOD though.

I'd be intrigued to see how Ondra got on with it. I could imagine him struggling though, my impression is that Shawn is pretty good at a lot of the same stuff Ondra is good at (funky body positions, big drop knees, heels/toes etc.) while also being strong on the basic stuff in a way that Ondra isn't.

[jwi]

His breakdown of 8C into 8C or 8C+ pops out of darth grader at 9c+.
Intriguing

The hardest climb in the world is now irrefutably a boulder problem! Take that Ondra! with you're "9b is about as hard as 8C+, but I've done 9c so I clearly climb harder than all the boulderers" (please don't ask me to verify what he actually said, this might just be a fabrication of my imagination )

I would have an easier time believing that he could climb 9c+ if he could climb a short bouldery 9a close to his parent's vacation home.

[Wood FT]

His breakdown of 8C into 8C or 8C+ pops out of darth grader at 9c+.
Intriguing

The hardest climb in the world is now irrefutably a boulder problem! Take that Ondra! with you're "9b is about as hard as 8C+, but I've done 9c so I clearly climb harder than all the boulderers" (please don't ask me to verify what he actually said, this might just be a fabrication of my imagination )

I would have an easier time believing that he could climb 9c+ if he could climb a short bouldery 9a close to his parent's vacation home.

Which crag?

[edshakey]

Alternative view for the thread:

Maybe Shawn is actually far from the anti-insta low-profile wad we thought he was: he's just waited months to announce a boulder, timed perfectly with a full film release. Top quality marketing for maximum views right there 

Shawn being silent about it for so long intrigued me, but I just put it down to some kind of artsy 40 minute vid largely consisting of grainy black and white close ups and shots of strategically placed mellow merch (deeply cynical, I know) being in the pipeline.

Don't say I didn't warn you!

Must have skimmed past that - unnervingly accurate prediction

[jwi]

I would have an easier time believing that he could climb 9c+ if he could climb a short bouldery 9a close to his parent's vacation home.

Which crag?

My story has of course no other point than that it is more difficult to climb with a rope than some climbers would like to think. And being malicious gossip, of course.

Super Manjoc.

[Wood FT]

I would have an easier time believing that he could climb 9c+ if he could climb a short bouldery 9a close to his parent's vacation home.

Which crag?

My story has of course no other point than that it is more difficult to climb with a rope than some climbers would like to think. And being malicious gossip, of course.

Super Manjoc.

Agreed. More gossip please.

On topic: Jacob Shoeburp to repeat this within a year

[36chambers]

Loads of interesting stuff mentioned in this interview https://www.climbing.com/news/shawn-raboutou-alphane-v17/

- Alphane took about 25 sessions
- It's the easier exit of something else he was originally trying...
- Sport climbing: “I was trying Bibliography (5.15c) actually and got nowhere close,”
- Megatron: “I have another cool video coming out soon.”

[teestub]

Now in HD, I never remember 360p looking that bad back in the day! 

[owensum]

Maybe Shawn is actually far from the anti-insta low-profile wad we thought he was: he's just waited months to announce a boulder, timed perfectly with a full film release. Top quality marketing for maximum views right there 

I got the impression that Shawn invented the idea for Mellow—at least, he helped with the name and branding. I wonder how much they make from ads? (and t shirt sales lol) And now this video is "from the North Face", so kind of a win-win.

[Duma]

Simon Lorenzi looks like he's making decent progress - in August...

https://instagram.com/stories/simonlorenzi/2911288478640547092?utm_source=ig_story_item_share&igshid=MDJmNzVkMjY=

[teestub]

woah that makes it look a lot steeper than I initially thought

[remus]

Good to see the UKB envoy asking the important questions https://www.instagram.com/p/ChnCNhOONV-/ 

[edshakey]

Any chance of a sample for non-instagramers?

[cheque]

[edshakey]

Better than I could possibly have imagined