UKBouldering.com

New 9A on the block? (Read 30152 times)

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#50 Re: New 9A on the block?
June 20, 2022, 03:17:08 pm
I wonder if the answer to this is in the name of his new 8C+ recently reported. Seems to tell you his thoughts on the matter if you ask me  :-\

Fuck the System? But also shout out to my sponsors for allowing me to climb full time and travel the world (assuming his sponsors help out with that sort of thing. I obviously have no idea :)).

:off: just a thought, I wonder how long it'll be until sponsors muscle their way into FA names.

"NEWSFLASH. After 106 days of effort Adam Ondra has just established the world's first 9c+ with his ascent of Comparethemarket.com, a 70 meter stamina feast in the recently discovered Big Mac cave in northern Norway."


36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#51 Re: New 9A on the block?
June 20, 2022, 03:23:41 pm
Shit it's already happening. I've just had a quick search through UKC and there's already loads of climbs called The North Face.

sherlock

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 460
  • Karma: +21/-0
#52 Re: New 9A on the block?
June 20, 2022, 03:28:23 pm
Back in the 80s a well known Lakes activist offered to name a new route on Dove Crag after a new type of rock boot. He was laughed out of the pub and subjected to ruthless piss taking.I wonder what the reaction would be today?

Stabbsy

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 763
  • Karma: +52/-0
#53 Re: New 9A on the block?
June 20, 2022, 03:34:11 pm
:off: just a thought, I wonder how long it'll be until sponsors muscle their way into FA names.
Happened long ago - Asolo on Dove Crag in the Lakes had its naming rights sold on by the enterprising Bill Birkett in about 1981. Clearly didn’t do the company much good from a climbing shoe perspective - they were still about when I first started climbing but not sure they’ve made climbing shoes for 20 years.

(Damn, beaten to it by Sherlock!)

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#55 Re: New 9A on the block?
June 20, 2022, 03:46:58 pm
What is the new 9A's name?

remus

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2857
  • Karma: +146/-1
#56 Re: New 9A on the block?
June 20, 2022, 04:30:10 pm
What is the new 9A's name?

Dont think it has one yet.

On the sponsored names, some restaurants in Kalymnos payed for some routes to be equipped and have the routes named after them e.g. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/spartacus_area-18410/alexis_zorbas-17716 is a restaurant in town. Good route, haven't tried the food.

Don Jebus

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 46
  • Karma: +2/-0
#57 Re: New 9A on the block?
June 20, 2022, 05:12:10 pm
I wonder if the answer to this is in the name of his new 8C+ recently reported. Seems to tell you his thoughts on the matter if you ask me  :-\

Fuck the System? But also shout out to my sponsors for allowing me to climb full time and travel the world (assuming his sponsors help out with that sort of thing. I obviously have no idea :)).

I was more thinking about this in terms of how the current system of sponsorship in climbing is more about social media clicks than what people are doing. And so as a fuck you to that he's not gonna play along. Of course he'll have his sponsor obligations, so I'm sure he still has to post a bit, etc.

I don't think there is some crazy reason for not reporting his ascents , I just think he doesn't like social media, or at least how it now plays into everything.

Personally I completely agree with it, and I hope he keeps fucking with people. Seeing the climbing world's reaction to all this is pretty amusing

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#58 Re: New 9A on the block?
June 20, 2022, 05:17:02 pm
Was Castleberg sponsored by local businesses?

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/castleberg_crag-10441/

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13413
  • Karma: +676/-67
  • Whut
#59 Re: New 9A on the block?
June 20, 2022, 05:25:49 pm
Yes. And the rock quality is a tribute to that whole principle.

owensum

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 98
  • Karma: +7/-0
#60 Re: New 9A on the block?
June 20, 2022, 05:48:11 pm
Shawn used to be sponsored by North Face, but he's not listed on their athlete page anymore. Maybe he just dumped his sponsors?

honroid

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 134
  • Karma: +0/-0
#61 Re: New 9A on the block?
June 26, 2022, 08:20:13 pm
Ballet has gone pretty quiet too. These guys maybe just doing it for themselves..

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29221
  • Karma: +630/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#62 Re: New 9A on the block?
June 27, 2022, 07:54:40 am
Maybe they binned him, and the prob name is a result?

honroid

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 134
  • Karma: +0/-0
#63 Re: New 9A on the block?
June 30, 2022, 07:29:26 pm
Ballet has gone pretty quiet too. These guys maybe just doing it for themselves..

Soz.. Nalle not Ballet.. I meant to say Nalle has gone pretty much off grid. I know this has been discussed but a similar story of a top climber operating below the radar. There are a few but less usual for people who have been well in the lime light and well at the top to slide out of view..

owensum

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 98
  • Karma: +7/-0
#64 Re: New 9A on the block?
July 25, 2022, 03:37:27 pm
One of shawn's hard FAs has been revealed.. Story of Three Worlds 8C+


Bradders

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2785
  • Karma: +135/-3
#65 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 20, 2022, 09:34:49 am
Sounds like we've now had all three of Shaun's rumoured big ascents from Switzerland then:

1. Fuck the System 8C+; low start to Foundations Edge, Fionnay - https://www.instagram.com/p/Cdtbtv0Jhtf/

2. Story of Three Worlds 8C+; extension of The Story of Two Worlds, Cresciano -

3. Alphane 9A; left of Alphane Moon, Chironico - https://www.instagram.com/p/ChczmRCDDdi/

Fourth proposed 9A in the world after Burden of Dreams, Soudain Seul and Return of the Sleepwalker. I think my favourite thing about that little quartet is that they're all pretty incredible lines. No lowball choss wrangling with any of them!

Hoseyb

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Master of Obscurites
  • Posts: 545
  • Karma: +44/-0
    • www.hoseyb.org.uk
#66 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 20, 2022, 10:35:12 am
I guess you have to want to do them when they're that hard. Hard to be motivated by lowball choss wrangling

lukeyboy

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 521
  • Karma: +24/-0
#67 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 20, 2022, 11:54:38 am
I guess you have to want to do them when they're that hard. Hard to be motivated by lowball choss wrangling

I wouldn't put it past Adam Ondra!

owensum

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 98
  • Karma: +7/-0
#68 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 22, 2022, 03:42:18 pm
Pretty cool that Shawn established both Switzerland's first 8C+ (off the wagon low) and 9A (alphane).

36chambers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1678
  • Karma: +154/-4
#69 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 22, 2022, 05:01:55 pm

Felix14

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 33
  • Karma: +0/-0
#70 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 22, 2022, 06:00:21 pm
His breakdown of 8C into 8C or 8C+ pops out of darth grader at 9c+.
Intriguing


edshakey

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 527
  • Karma: +29/-0
#71 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 22, 2022, 07:44:44 pm
Alternative view for the thread:

Maybe Shawn is actually far from the anti-insta low-profile wad we thought he was: he's just waited months to announce a boulder, timed perfectly with a full film release. Top quality marketing for maximum views right there 
:popcorn:

shark

Offline
  • *****
  • Administrator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8697
  • Karma: +625/-17
  • insect overlord #1
#72 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 22, 2022, 10:19:42 pm
His breakdown of 8C into 8C or 8C+ pops out of darth grader at 9c+.
Intriguing

24 moves with a shake in the middle. It’s a route

J_duds

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 233
  • Karma: +2/-0
#73 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 22, 2022, 10:51:24 pm
Quote from: shark

It’s a route

This was also my thoughts too, surely anything with more than 10 or 12 moves is a route grade..

Andy F

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1985
  • Karma: +129/-13
  • Ex-ex-climber
#74 Re: New 9A on the block?
August 22, 2022, 11:00:25 pm
What/were is the Megatron project, the other rumoured 9A?

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal