Not much happening on our rest day so thought I’d kick this week off. M. Managed to RP Médecine Douce 6c+ at Cascade putting the clips in. Totally not my style so happy to get it. Felt hard but okay. Top Roped it after to get the clips out - felt easier not clipping, but also didn’t rest on that attempt. Went across to Berlin and tried to onsight* Petite Illusion (7a+). Dropped it going for the jug before the last bolt of easy climbing. Fell a few moves lower on the Red Point. Tired after 2 days walking/climbing.T. Rest dayW. Rest dayT. Skipped Cascade and went to Demi-lune in the afternoon. Did Katina 6a, Harley Davidson 6b+ and Espranza 7a+ (2nd go). Nice to easily get the latter after failing 9 years ago. Got back to the van as the rain arrived.F. Rest day. Swim in the lake and generally lazy. S. Grande Face. Tried to onsight Ange 7a but went the wrong way between the last few bolts. Went easy next go. Did a 6a+ a few lines down and tried a 7c+ called Elle va où Elle Veut. Draws were in and a friend had the beta so no pressure. Managed to onsight to the crux but then rested on the bolt. Got the crux beta but was tired and it felt hard. Slopey crimps weren’t doing it for me. Would be keen for another go if we’re back in that sector as it was only the one bolt of hard climbing which posed a problem (apparently the top is fine). But I think I’ll probably got for a 7b+ or 7c instead (maybe Galaxy on Berlin? The Only one logged at the appropriate right grade on UKC!). If I manage Petite Illusion on Monday…S. Rest day
Thanks James. Enjoying the Ceuse stories. On my list of dream crags to go to.
Very happy to be at Céüse. ... Onwards and upwards.
Do not underestimate the top of Elle va... At least, check it out carefully. I came pretty close to falling, despite hiking the crux. I thought the nearby route Les Petits Princes de l'absurde was an easier proposition for 7c+. (I wasn't in the best of shapes but still)
Quote from: Aussiegav on May 29, 2022, 08:54:10 pmThanks James. Enjoying the Ceuse stories. On my list of dream crags to go to.Just want to second this.And sounds like a really good week Gav!
Took it gently the whole way and it wasn’t too bad. YYFY! Climbed Coup de Blues por Dom (6b) which I vaguely remembered having done 6 years ago. The individual moves were fine but I completely over-cooked it and was hyperventilating for minutes after. Very happy to be at Céüse. Never thought this would happen two weeks ago when the antibiotics didn’t seem to be working and the leg was deteriorating.
May I suggest Makach Walou for a 7c+? Fantastic and not stern for the grade like seemingly everything else on Berlin. Perfect power endurance
Other than driving everyone not in Ceuse mad with jealousy that is!
Go find the via ferrata ladder while you are there. Scarier than any sport route.
Quote from: Duma on May 29, 2022, 06:41:27 pmHey Duma, feel free not to answer if you don't want to, but I'm fascinated to know what you do for a living! Your Power Club entries always sound brutal!