…Managed to summon up enough trad psyche to leave the ground on Spirit Air….
Tried mixing butter and Nutella. Worked well.
Quote from: James Malloch on May 22, 2022, 07:30:13 pmTried mixing butter and Nutella. Worked well.This is the sort of gem I come to power club for
All this chat of Ceuse is making me think about my "close but no cigar" route back in 2004 (first ever foreign sport trip!).It was a 7b or 7b+ iirc, which started off with a tricky 6c slab to a no-hands rest, followed by overhanging big (two hands) pockets with a tricky finale to a muddy pocket. Got to the last move twice but could never deal the deal! Checked the logbook but can't figure out which it is.
Lapinerie at Demi Lune
Quote from: Fultonius on May 22, 2022, 11:47:03 am …Managed to summon up enough trad psyche to leave the ground on Spirit Air….Isn’t Spirit Air brilliant…! Not a giveaway though - typical Kev H. I can’t believe it used to get E4 Neil
There is a non-powerful but knacky way to do the New Dawn start where you use a sidepull out left for your LH and right toe in one of the pockets on the tufa and left toe bridged against a vertical edge in the curving flake and hunker in to get traction out the sidepull then stand up to reach the pegged out undercut slot with your RH
Power Club:M. Stretching in the evening.T.W. T. Board session in the evening. Warmed up with 3 max hangs. Hideous conditions but sent one of my projects? Good session.F.S.S. Sport climbing at Dinbren, 1st time on a rope for a year. No expectations and a bit nervous, but managed a 6b, 6c+ onsight, 6c+ 2nd go and repeated a 7a first go. I only have stamina for 3 moves in a row so all of these were a battle. Lovely, but fuck me my harness has got tighter.
Goal: New Font 7a outdoors by year endMajor NNFN. Back to (before) square one. Suspected for a while that physio's prognosis wasn't correct, guess this proves it. Booked in with knee specialist (via works healthcare scheme thing) but not until 7th June.