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New problems at Lawrencefield: 6C & 7B (Read 8452 times)

CapitalistPunter

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If I’m to remain completely honest I didn’t touch the arête just stood up to the finger ledge off a pebble  - there was a few climbers on the crag when we arrived already…as stated there was already quite a few hand pats of chalk on the rock when we arrived. Potentially had already been up some of the lines.

I guess what it boils down to is either  :

It’s the individuals feelings to being the FA (I can only offer my apologies and a token beer)

or

Having there name in the guide book or UKC as a record of the name of the person who spent the time to find/climb it …for me I won’t put my name to the problem on UKC as I didn’t put any of the work in and unintentionally stepped on another man’s toes during my potterings. (Believe it or not - I do stand by quite a lot of crag ethics)

Definitely the name stands and unless your going to attach the smizard tag to the FA it’d make more sense to put it to the name of the lad who cleaned it up and went back with the intentions.

I did appreciate the good work of development in the area and so did the lads I was out with so for that thank you to those blokes.

Ah interesting, maybe it was even done before you then? A man called Jack logged it online saying he did it a couple of days ago, I assumed this was you?

As for the Fa part, I agree with Will that it's objective and about the first person to do the problem, so it should be put under your name.

Smizard

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Highly likely someone has been on it before us.

Correct, that’s me.

I can only place a debt to Will of one FA then and maybe purchase some reading glasses.


CapitalistPunter

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Highly likely someone has been on it before us.

Correct, that’s me.

I can only place a debt to Will of one FA then and maybe purchase some reading glasses.

Haha old friend. Need to wage war on whoever was on it before you then!

Smizard

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Hahah small world. Very small climbing world.

Jacqusie

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Righto glad that's all sorted!  :-\

So just to make sure I've got this right, the name 'Anthology stands but Jack gets the FA. I'll put Will next to him on UKC and then everyones happy that this epic has a happy ending & we are all richer that the quarry's waking up in these parts again.

Like I said there's quite a few chalk dabs along that run of walls down Lawrencefield, there's bound to be folks thinking that stuff is already done, such is the perils of cleaning & marking lines like this as there's a few tasty looking projects

Carliios

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Righto glad that's all sorted!  :-\

So just to make sure I've got this right, the name 'Anthology stands but Jack gets the FA. I'll put Will next to him on UKC and then everyones happy that this epic has a happy ending & we are all richer that the quarry's waking up in these parts again.

Like I said there's quite a few chalk dabs along that run of walls down Lawrencefield, there's bound to be folks thinking that stuff is already done, such is the perils of cleaning & marking lines like this as there's a few tasty looking projects

Wouldn’t be surprised if Jamie’s done all of these 5 times over  :P

highrepute

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Glad that's all sorted. My post was probably hasty and unhelpful so I apologise. Keep posting and keep seeking out new climbs.

I went to Lawrencefield to try these problem and also to do some things I'd noticed a few years ago and never got round to trying. So thanks for inspiring me.

I climbed the centre of the Antihistamine slab as mentioned in your original post but I thought it was too eliminate to be worth recording, probably 6c.

This turned out to be an Iain Farrar 7a from sitting - with a rule to eliminate the triangular block to left when doing the sit start. I though 6c from standing. Getting off the ledge is tricky so worth figuring out what you're going to do. I went right and up but some grass pulling was involved, down through the holly is also possible. It's on the left of the Stonemason's Buttress, don't think it has a name.


This is just to the right of the Gingerbread Slabs in a damp corner. Enjoyable as I had to climb it as a pure layback. I finished at some good holds and down climbed the crack. Also 6c. Tried to repeat for the camera but fell off. I'll call Anti-Gravity if it sticks.


This is further on past the antihistamine. Also 6c. I was fairly certain this had been done before when I saw it a few years ago as the holds had been brushed. A top out might be possible but didn't seem justifiable on my own.

Smizard

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Good effort. All look good additions to the circuit.

Does anyone know what lines are to right of boonapi or anything about them - somewhat clean…can’t find record of them but I thought the centre line could be one of the best pure slabs I’ve seen in the peak.

highrepute

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Good effort. All look good additions to the circuit.

Does anyone know what lines are to right of boonapi or anything about them - somewhat clean…can’t find record of them but I thought the centre line could be one of the best pure slabs I’ve seen in the peak.

Thanks.

There's some.info on peak bouldering.info. If that works.

Moon Goose Analogue 7b+. A jump start to the right of boonapi. By Iain Farrar again. The no jump start still a project...

Smizard

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Interesting - still unsure that details the centre line I would presume moon goose is more to the right of the centre as I’d spotted a few edges there.

The centre is just a bald slab with the odd tiny feature. Had a go but even getting established is tough.

CapitalistPunter

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Glad that's all sorted. My post was probably hasty and unhelpful so I apologise. Keep posting and keep seeking out new climbs.

I went to Lawrencefield to try these problem and also to do some things I'd noticed a few years ago and never got round to trying. So thanks for inspiring me.

I climbed the centre of the Antihistamine slab as mentioned in your original post but I thought it was too eliminate to be worth recording, probably 6c.

This turned out to be an Iain Farrar 7a from sitting - with a rule to eliminate the triangular block to left when doing the sit start. I though 6c from standing. Getting off the ledge is tricky so worth figuring out what you're going to do. I went right and up but some grass pulling was involved, down through the holly is also possible. It's on the left of the Stonemason's Buttress, don't think it has a name.


This is just to the right of the Gingerbread Slabs in a damp corner. Enjoyable as I had to climb it as a pure layback. I finished at some good holds and down climbed the crack. Also 6c. Tried to repeat for the camera but fell off. I'll call Anti-Gravity if it sticks.


This is further on past the antihistamine. Also 6c. I was fairly certain this had been done before when I saw it a few years ago as the holds had been brushed. A top out might be possible but didn't seem justifiable on my own.


Good stuff! That first problem especially looks great.

chrisbrooke

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Interesting - still unsure that details the centre line I would presume moon goose is more to the right of the centre as I’d spotted a few edges there.

The centre is just a bald slab with the odd tiny feature. Had a go but even getting established is tough.

Went and had a look at the slab yesterday. It looks really good. The RH line, up to the really good edge, at 6B+, looks fab. I just wish it wasn't all so harrowing up there. If it didn't have that drop below the problems it would surely be one of the best slabs in the area!

Finger Locking Good, a few blocks to the right on that tier, looks good too. I might go back with a nutkey and secatures to clean the crack out and give it a go.

Bonjoy

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This is further on past the antihistamine. Also 6c. I was fairly certain this had been done before when I saw it a few years ago as the holds had been brushed. A top out might be possible but didn't seem justifiable on my own.

Only just noticed this. Yes, I did this arete two or three years back. Recorded here as <no name yet> 6b - https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30671.msg610537.html#msg610537
Not surprised you didn't spot my record given i forgot to mention it was an arete in the description!

highrepute

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This is further on past the antihistamine. Also 6c. I was fairly certain this had been done before when I saw it a few years ago as the holds had been brushed. A top out might be possible but didn't seem justifiable on my own.

Only just noticed this. Yes, I did this arete two or three years back. Recorded here as <no name yet> 6b - https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30671.msg610537.html#msg610537
Not surprised you didn't spot my record given i forgot to mention it was an arete in the description!

Somehow missed that! It's on ukc as Anti-Climbax now. Do you want to suggest another name? Did you top out?

Bonjoy

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Your name sounds fine to me.
I got stood on the ledge then pulled up a harness and abbed off (my cleaning rope was still in place)

Jacqusie

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Your name sounds fine to me.
I got stood on the ledge then pulled up a harness and abbed off (my cleaning rope was still in place)


Good thinking! - would it have counted if you had done the boulder problem IN your harness or would the style police have you for that?

El Mocho

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Your name sounds fine to me.
I got stood on the ledge then pulled up a harness and abbed off (my cleaning rope was still in place)

I did this a few months back and topped it out going up and right. It's a bit vegetated but ok. The main bit of the problem is really quality I thought, not sure if a bit of cleaning would make the top out nicer? Pity to have to jump or abb off but I'm guessing since you had a rope and cleaning head on it's not simple/possible to clean the top. (obv you can top out as I did but it might not appeal to all)


 

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