Not done much trad climbing in last 5 years and finding it tough getting back into it. Hard not to make comparisons how I used to fare on trad routes.
In terms of fitness over headgame, not sure I agree. You’re rarely going to find an E5 with climbing harder than F7b and you’re more likely looking at F6c+. In your case Jim (as an F8c sport climber), you’re overpowering the routes with fitness - margins upon margins. In Shark’s case, he could try and use F7c/8a fitness to overpower the routes or just get good at climbing F6b/+ above gear. I know which would come to me easier!
The thing is, Shark is good at that and has decades of experience to burrow down into. Fitness allows you the time to be competent and competence breeds confidence. The key ingredients, in my opinion*.
Main thing is I want to get more confident and actually enjoy it
I reckon Shark will read that and take from it that he needs to train bouldering power.
Some people are better than others at circumventing trad mileage, but it’s only possible IMO if you have a really good head. Sure on some trad routes sport fitness is helpful, but personally I think it’s overstated and not that relevant until E6 and above. Much more relevant is a bit of bouldering power and confidence to just go for it.
So if a F7c climber is getting pumped on F6c climbing, is it because they’re not fit enough or because they’re over gripping?
Thanks but I’m not good at it at the moment but it is only day 3. Being fitter would stop me getting quite so pumped (which is also scary) so agree with that. Main thing is I want to get more confident and actually enjoy it. At the moment I scarcely recognise the type of climber I used to be despite being significantly stronger. Hopefully I can get some of that confidence and enjoyment back this time round. If not I’ll sack it off for good.
T. ...we went to Stoney. Went on Dies Irae E2 which I remember waltzing up BITD but that was then. .... Traumatic.F. High Tor..... I went on Darius... Took a long time but managed to it clean with manageable levels of trauma. Almost enjoyed it.
Shark. I don’t know if you have some grade you are hoping to feel comfortable on, but I’d maybe say it might be worth just making sure you are happy on E1-3 ground.